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Frame Rust Fix, What Works Best?

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Tjsingle26, Mar 22, 2015.

  1. Mar 22, 2015 at 9:37 PM
    #1
    Tjsingle26

    Tjsingle26 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hey All,

    I am sure some of you have seen my previous threads about my truck, and I had a few additional questions, and I figured it would be better to start a new thread.

    So my problem is that I have surface rust on my frame in two main areas. The first being the top of the frame rail on the drivers side, see picture.

    photo8_941a87545dde0acd9f9f71358e320a2f1d91b75c.jpg

    The second is behind the shackles at the end of the frame, which isn't all that bad, just scale and surface rust.

    Overall my trucks frame is in good condition. I have performed the frame test with a hammer about two or so weeks ago and I had no soft spots, or perforations. I have concluded that the majority of my rust is surface with minimal inner frame rust from checking drain holes and other access points to the inside of frame.

    I have also checked common week points in the 1st gens such as the frame rails, and the leaf spring mounts very thoroughly with a hammer, and by checking the inside of the frame.

    From my experience in the engineering field I have not found any weak points in the frame that should cause concern, but i have narrowed down my problem to the surface rust and scale.

    I have seen many different approaches to tackling rust issues before they turn into frame rot, and subsequent failure and I wanted to know the best ones out there.

    My original plan was to,
    1.)Wire wheel loose rust off frame
    2.)Wash frame after the wire wheel to remove dirt, dust, etc
    3.)Apply Rustoleum Rust Reformer on the frame
    4.)Top coat frame with Rustoleum chasis paint.
    5.)After Top Coat has dried, use Eastwood Internal Frame coating to coat the inside of the frame.

    After reading thread after thread of many different products used, I am unsure of what to really use at this point and with the weather getting warmer I would like to take care of this rust soon.

    I am considering using Eastwood rust encapsulator followed by chasis black..

    Feedback and suggestions would be much appreciated!

    Thanks
     
    The lizard likes this.
  2. Mar 23, 2015 at 3:46 AM
    #2
    Sin

    Sin Well-Known Member

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    Sounds like a good plan. Similar to what I did.
    Wire Brush
    Rustoleum Rust Reformer.
    Then took 4 parts Mineral Spits and 1 Part Rustoleum mixed them together
    in a Garden Sprayer. Sprayed everything under vehicle except exhaust. Used brush
    to catch any drips. Also sprayed up over the inside of the fenders and took out the plugs behind the cab and shot into there. The flexible wand was also able to shoot inside the box part of frame. I plan on doing this every spring after a good blast with my Power washer.
     
  3. Mar 23, 2015 at 8:50 AM
    #3
    TacoGlenn

    TacoGlenn Nobody Makes a Monkey Outta Me!

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  4. Mar 23, 2015 at 12:51 PM
    #4
    Tjsingle26

    Tjsingle26 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So the proper method or step by step would be to

    1.) Wire brush loose rust off
    2.) Degrease
    3.) Rust Encapsulator/Rust Converter. Not sure which to use?
    4.) Top Coat

    Correct me if im wrong
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2015
  5. Mar 23, 2015 at 1:54 PM
    #5
    Tjsingle26

    Tjsingle26 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    How has it held up?
     
  6. Mar 23, 2015 at 1:59 PM
    #6
    bighouse01

    bighouse01 Well-Known Member

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    Sandblasting is best. There is an attachment from northern tool that hooks up to your gas pressure washer that will siphon sand and blast with no dust. You could easily pull the bed for great access to at least the rear 1/2.

    IMG_20141021_151549_963_zpsnf8zzgvr_05c2cf3635261fd98085962e939c7e30a68c0fd9.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2015
  7. Mar 23, 2015 at 2:23 PM
    #7
    Tjsingle26

    Tjsingle26 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    That definitely seems like a very effective method. I mean I guess the main thing is that is tripping me up, is what is better to use encapsulator, or converter? Encapsulator would prevent the rust from getting oxygen and moisture. But the converter would simple get rid of the rust, and convert it to a surface I could topcoat.
     
  8. Mar 23, 2015 at 2:32 PM
    #8
    BadBrains

    BadBrains Spreading the Aloha

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    Why not blast, POR15, then topcoat?
     
  9. Mar 23, 2015 at 2:47 PM
    #9
    Tjsingle26

    Tjsingle26 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I most likely will. I just need to figure how much I need to do the whole frame. I dont think I have the means to sand blast it though
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2015
  10. Mar 23, 2015 at 4:20 PM
    #10
    Sin

    Sin Well-Known Member

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    I'm happy with it. Its gone through two winters and I've resprayed it twice.
    Will try and get a pic for ya....Ok bad pic, its pretty dirty under there. I'll be power washing it and respraying it again soon.
    When I purchased the truck a couple of years ago the truck had a lot of surface rust all over the frame. Although it did look like it had some kind of black factory coating.

    DSCN3500_472ad2503c079fff8f25141fbfbf455f7490dc29.jpg
     
  11. Mar 23, 2015 at 5:24 PM
    #11
    Tjsingle26

    Tjsingle26 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Okay guys, So I am posting better pictures of my trucks frame

    More surface rust on the drivers side for whatever reason. The passengers is a lot cleaner. But I did notice that I had some inner rust near the leaf spring mount and had kind of freaked out... I know thats a bad spot to have rust. But I took a screw driver and tried to see if it would give at all. Luckily it is just surface scale.. My truck is structurally sound but these forums with all the horror stories make you worry more haha.

    Basically, after performing the Toyota TSB, by hitting the frame with a hammer all over I was not able to find any soft spots on the frame. Which is good. But I do however have frame rust and scale at several portions of the frame. In some places more serious then others. See pictures...


    Drivers side top of frame rail
    photo8_941a87545dde0acd9f9f71358e320a2f1d91b75c.jpg

    Drivers Side bottom of frame rail
    IMG_5378_4d33ed787669c9426f8692fe101fa2e9d47f7095.jpg

    The other side of the frame looks the same. The inside of this portion of the frame is rust free.

    Rear Drivers side- Leaf Springs

    IMG_5379_20a3352025cb5f95e395987219b0c63cebf52fd1.jpg

    IMG_5376_e3706e3dc0b8ba254a9d111915e6177c0fe35193.jpg


    Rear Drivers Side
    IMG_5375_d48181d9aae162a1760fc22edfb5d9fa040e9668.jpg


    Passenger side rear
    IMG_5381_f9284ecf1b9e38849c31434a0e6dd9b5c2cf7e30.jpg

    IMG_5382_84066c2e95db9dd5e6cb9437db75119c4c9f80cb.jpg

    IMG_5383_62ab4105f5d4493827bf81d8935b1dec821dae9f.jpg

    This spot was very concerning for me, but this is where I tested the frame with a screwdriver and a hammer. No structural defects or weakness. Inner rust is scale.

    Passenger Side middle of frame
    IMG_5385_b516c2147f5e943ecd11c0c728eea20529df5cb2.jpg


    Like I said before I have no doubt in my mind that the trucks frame is safe and structurally sound. But that does not change the fact I have frame rust, that needs to be addressed. Unfortunately the original owner was a dummy and never took the truck in to be sprayed. So I cant get a new frame ever. But I don't think it would matter regardless because the warranty for me would have been up in three years and my truck is no where as bad as others I have seen.

    I have experience in the engineering field particularly structural engineering and I have seen the affects of rust on steel rebar in structures and how bad it can be. And in my opinion my truck has rust not rot. My truck would pass inspection at Toyota, and I think that with proper rust treatment I can extend the life of my truck for several more years.

    PS: The leaf springs have bright orange surface rust because they were install over the summer, and I didnt think I would have to top coat them...
     
  12. Mar 23, 2015 at 6:41 PM
    #12
    bighouse01

    bighouse01 Well-Known Member

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    OP- your frame looks great. But its time to nip it before the rust really takes off. I've used all the above. Eastwood had hope. The converter turned a pretty purple when applied to am axle housing. but months later the paint peeled exposing rust like the converter was never applied. Por-15 isn't what it used to be either.

    You need to blast. Apply an acid etching primer followed by a primer sealer and finally a topcoat. Automotive refinishing process. I just did mine- insides the tubes and out. I disassembled the whole truck. Blasted the frame in and out and my topcoat was a 2k hot rod black urethane on a rotisserie. That would be a #1, top notch repair. I'm a little nuts.

    The truck in my pic is a friends 2500 GMC. He blasted then used tractor supplies version of rustoleum etching primer and followed with with their satin black. It came out nice and still looks good. A #2 job after what was described above. I would recommend this process for most people.

    If you don't get all the rust off. The iron oxide left behind(darker harder rust) holds moisture and will just fester under your new pretty paint. Do it right and do it once. You'll be happy you did.


    Oh and after your all done. Apply 3m rustfighter inside the frame with a rustproofing wand. Its a wax coating that shoots 360 degrees out of the nozzle. Eastwood has a similar internal coating. Don't skimp.
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2015
  13. Mar 23, 2015 at 6:49 PM
    #13
    Tjsingle26

    Tjsingle26 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thank you for the awesome advice. I myself am a little bit nuts as well, stress from school turns into stress over things like my truck... I have some choices to make regarding product specifics, but the common theme is prep is EVERYTHING.
     
  14. Aug 12, 2015 at 4:07 PM
    #14
    Quba

    Quba Member

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    OP - Do you have an update on the route you chose? I recently got a great deal on my first Taco. The body is super clean (few dents but no rust anywhere) though the frame has some surface rust I'd like to address. Currently trying to figure out my best option.
     
  15. Aug 12, 2015 at 4:59 PM
    #15
    Tjsingle26

    Tjsingle26 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hey, I used KBS rust seal I had great results.

    https://www.tacomaworld.com/index.php?threads/KBS-Rust-Seal-Review-(Picture-Heavy).374144/

    With the right prep work it'll go on any surface. Let me know if you have any questions regarding the product
     
  16. Aug 13, 2015 at 7:57 PM
    #16
    Kevlar

    Kevlar Well-Known Member

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    Fluid film. It may not give you a pretty black paint job but this stuff works awesome!
     
    unbrokenchain likes this.
  17. Aug 14, 2015 at 10:20 AM
    #17
    53rdcard

    53rdcard Well-Known Member

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    Im in the same boat, though mine was a free 2k4 from my brother in law who inherited a 2012 from his father, so he passed on his to me, but he had been living down in tn, truck was here as well and sitting for years due to a limb that hit the roof and broke a window, he was taking care of his father during that time, and still is so he didn't need to drive his truck as the fathers was already his, his old one got repaired and now is mine, but it needed a lot of small stuff, i did all that myself.

    last thing is the frame, im solo on the repairs, and don't have the kind of setup that i would need to do things like lift the bed off the frame even, or more to the point i could get it off, but not back on.

    so mine is going to be a frame on truck job, not the best solution but its what i have to work with, good news is, i tested a small patch of it and got it to bare metal really fast, and have tested with a hammer alll parts of it nothing showed any issues.

    i found these 2 threads benificial in choosing what to do and use
    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/frame-restoration-did-it-myself.368199/page-3#post-10565184
    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/kbs-rust-seal-review-picture-heavy.374144/

    im just waiting for the temp to go down to get started on it, it is way to hot outside to do this kind of long time frame work when covered head to toe in a plastic suit for hours.

    i went with the kbs system, got 2 kits, they say it will only take one, but i also only wanted to do it once, and dont want to have to stop and redo anything cause i ran out of anything, i got the eastwood interior frame rust encapsulator spray in green so i could easily see when or if rust ever started showing through again, and already had a camera scope from something else that i will use to check the rust inside it, trying to find something i can use to brush out the inside parts of the frame, something like a chimney brush or something like that maybe
     
  18. Aug 14, 2015 at 10:22 AM
    #18
    Tjsingle26

    Tjsingle26 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I used one KBS system. It worked well. I didn't wear a tyvex suit when I did it, I worked outside though so it wasn't bad. I also used KBS cavity coater, it's the same idea as east woods.
     
  19. Aug 14, 2015 at 10:29 AM
    #19
    53rdcard

    53rdcard Well-Known Member

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    good to know, i havent ordered the 2nd kit yet so that saves me some cash, did you have much left over after 2 coats?
     
  20. Aug 14, 2015 at 10:34 AM
    #20
    Tjsingle26

    Tjsingle26 [OP] Well-Known Member

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