HELP! Steering Rack replacement.

Hello all!

First post, and I'm jumping in... have done my fair share of anonymous lurking...

Went to replace my steering rack this weekend, and found a number of issues that need to get addresses, but ran into two main problems.

1) detaching hoses... Man, I spent a While working on that. Had a cheap Duralast flare nut wrench almost round off the nuts, so I went to Sears and picked up a set of craftsman wrenches that have MUCH more bearing area on the corners. However, I then ran into the problem that the angle at which the jaws sit do not allow me to get it on the nuts. So I decided the only way I'll be able to do it is to unbolt the hoses from the body and the pump and pull the whole thing out.

2) middle mounting point... there's a small knob on the bottom of my transmission that wont' allow me to get my ratchet and socket to the top of this support. Anyone have SPECIFIC recommendations on what they used to get this out out? Is there some sort of low-profile 1/2" ratchet (that could take the used of pipe on the end of it) that will get in there? Maybe my sockets are too long? How long is yours?

TIA.
Don

 

I am not sure of what you are talking about, but usually if a socket and ratchet won't work.........a ratcheting wrench will.

 

It has to be a flare wrench.

 

I was able to get my hose off at the steering rack using a regular open end wrench. I unbolted all the bolts on the rack first, then pulled the rack out a bit and it gave me enough room to be able to slide the wrench in there perfectly.

For the top bolt of the rack, I used a short socket and a breaker bar. Ratchets are thick and dont fit well. I was able to use a 3/8 breaker bar and the floor jack pipe.

 

Chowwwww (is that the right number of w's?).

I was thinking that might do the trick for the hoses, but was prepared to have to pull it all the way out. Did you disconnect the hoses from the frame, or was there enough slack without doing that?

I'm using a 1/2" drive ratchet , which is wider but shorter than my 1/2" dive breaker bar. Will have to stop at my HD and see what they have. That was a 19mm, right? Nut on bottom is welded to cross member?

Thanks guys.

 

I installed mne several months ago, I had to remove the sway bar completely, then I disconnected the TRE's. Unbolt the front SR bolt and the side clamp bolts this will allow enough room to rotate the rack down and out and to access the lines easier. I used a wrench and a small hammer to lightly tap on the wrench to loosen the lines. reinstall in reverse order. Refill with new power steering fluid and bleed out the air in the lines. Should take approx. 2 hrs, depending on the number of beers it takes to quit cursing and throwing tools to get the lines off.

 

I just unbolt all 3 bolts and slid it back and it was enough room. Didn't have to disconnect it from the frame.

I can't remember the exact size of bolt on top but 19mm does sound right.