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Recently lifted and popping CVs

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by cbcs1987, Jan 26, 2010.

  1. Jan 27, 2010 at 6:45 AM
    #21
    badguybuster

    badguybuster Well-Known Member

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    New truck....so nothing yet
    No, I had stock ones.
     
  2. Jan 27, 2010 at 7:24 AM
    #22
    toku58

    toku58 Well-Known Member

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    On a Rock in the middle of the Pacific
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    21' TRD OffRoad 2" 887 OME on Bilstein 5100's. 285/70R17 General Grabbers G3 17x8.5" Icon TRD wheels (Gun metal gray) 4.75" BS
    The roaring sound that you described, could be a thin film of rust that forms on the rotors. Since you stated that it only happens after your truck has been sitting for a while. Next time before you jump in and drive off. Try and jack up the front of your truck and spin the tire to see where the noise is coming from?
     
  3. Jan 27, 2010 at 7:30 AM
    #23
    toku58

    toku58 Well-Known Member

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    21' TRD OffRoad 2" 887 OME on Bilstein 5100's. 285/70R17 General Grabbers G3 17x8.5" Icon TRD wheels (Gun metal gray) 4.75" BS
    Since you stated that it only happens while sitting still it might be binding of a component. Or worse case, maybe you have a bad rack? But it's really hard to tell, unless I actually look at your truck.
    As for having it repaired under warranty? 5yrs, 60k is the warranty on the drive train. The 3 yrs 36k is only on cosmetic items. The drive train, steering, suspension has the 60k warranty.;)
     
  4. Jan 27, 2010 at 7:34 AM
    #24
    Dark Knight

    Dark Knight Well-Known Member

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    A few bolts are different.
    For the roaring yes. The loud pop happens constantly.
     
  5. Jan 27, 2010 at 8:58 AM
    #25
    outlawtacoma

    outlawtacoma Well-Known Member

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    I had my driver side CV boot start leaking. I also have the 5100's, and diff drop. I took it in to my local dealer and they bitched and moaned saying it was b/c of the lift. I argued, and finally just said piss on it until I was at my home town and took it there, they replaced it no questions asked.
    I belive the boots are part of the 60k warranty, but I could be mistaken.
     
  6. Jan 27, 2010 at 11:32 AM
    #26
    cbcs1987

    cbcs1987 [OP] Redneck from the hills

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    Here is an update. Pictures and videos. The pictures are with the truck jacked up.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Video of truck on jacks. Manually turning the wheels by moving the tire.

    [​IMG]

    Truck on the ground. Turning with steering wheel. Sorry for bad sound. But you can hear the pop.

    [​IMG]
     
  7. Jan 27, 2010 at 11:43 AM
    #27
    Fortech

    Fortech Well-Known Member

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    With a pop that loud it should be easy for two people to locate it - one turn the wheel and the other isolate the sound.
     
  8. Jan 28, 2010 at 12:18 PM
    #28
    s10nick

    s10nick Well-Known Member

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    3inch hbs lift toytec diff drop grillcraft grill hella 500s conv. to 8k hids xentec hid head light conv. 5% tint more to come
    its the cv axle! put a diff drop on and it will save the cvs. if you watch the video you can see the cv pop in and out when you hear the pop i had a problem with axle seals cuz i didnt have the diff drop i supose that lil bit of a angle can kill the cv also
     
  9. Jan 28, 2010 at 2:21 PM
    #29
    Jones'R

    Jones'R My

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    I've been told i likely wore a groove into my cv's b/c of the angle. This is the shuttering. Im takng my truck into the dealership under warranty sooon. im guessing cv's or hanger bearing
     
  10. Feb 24, 2010 at 12:39 PM
    #30
    cbcs1987

    cbcs1987 [OP] Redneck from the hills

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    Update!! I finally got around to locating the source of the sound. It was harder to do because since I decided to find the sound it wasnt popping when I was under there looking, and had someone turning the wheel. It finally popped one 2 two times. The pop was only one part of the problem.... I actually grabbed the steering rack (guess thats what its called?) while the wheels were turning and it was not smooth at all. Whats causing the problem...I don't know. I only know the source of the sound right now. Really dont want to resort to taking off the 5100s and going to the dealer.
     
  11. Feb 24, 2010 at 12:44 PM
    #31
    cbcs1987

    cbcs1987 [OP] Redneck from the hills

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    [​IMG]


    Thats the part with the pop/rough motion. I feel it on both sides of the truck. I know I sound ignorant, but what do yall call that part. I would normally call it the steering rack. So if someone could shed some light on that I would appreciate it :D
     
  12. Feb 24, 2010 at 1:44 PM
    #32
    FFRNDAN

    FFRNDAN Well-Known Member

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    Outer tie rod end IIRC. Thats an easy fix, takes longer to do the required alignment after you replace it than to actually replace the TRE.
     
  13. Feb 24, 2010 at 3:48 PM
    #33
    Fortech

    Fortech Well-Known Member

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    The outer tie rod end is the joint located closest to the tire underneath the little round rubber boot. An inner tie rod end is located underneath the rubber boot with all the fins on it. The steering rack is the long component in between the two rubber boots with the fins.

    I wouldn't be surprised if it is your rack. I had one replaced as did a co worker. Hope you have warranty if you need a new rack. This is hard to diagnose without actually being under the truck, but with a knock that loud, it shouldn't be too hard to find some play in a component there somewhere.

    If you move the tire back and forth slowly from side to side you should be able to feel some play there somewhere. There should be no play in either the inner or outer joint.
     
  14. Feb 24, 2010 at 4:01 PM
    #34
    1TUFFTRD

    1TUFFTRD WTF

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    damn maybe i should do a diff drop... where can i get one??
     
  15. Feb 24, 2010 at 5:09 PM
    #35
    DDD

    DDD Shine bright like a hymen

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    You . But they determined his problem is not the CV Axles, its the steering rack / tie rod ends.
     
  16. Feb 24, 2010 at 5:14 PM
    #36
    DDD

    DDD Shine bright like a hymen

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    Look at this diagram.

    [​IMG]

    The problem could be:

    - The ball joint at the end of the Tie Rod end.
    - The actual "Power steering rack" or pinion could have a chipped tooth or debris on the rack.
    - The "Steering Rack End Sub assembly" could have a problem where it flexes.

    The easiest and cheapest thing to fix/replace (if out of warranty) is the tie rod end ball joint.
     
  17. Feb 24, 2010 at 6:28 PM
    #37
    colinb17

    colinb17 If at first you don't succeed, don't try skydiving

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    :popcorn:

    i have a vibe around 60. pretty sure it's jsut my caster since i'm at 2.5 in of lift with stock UCAs...but i could have a worn/lose tie rod end....
    following along just in case.
    I hope you can get this fixed without much cost to you
     
  18. Feb 24, 2010 at 8:41 PM
    #38
    cbcs1987

    cbcs1987 [OP] Redneck from the hills

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    I'm gritting my teeth at the fact that I'm gonna have to take the 5100s off and put the stocks back on. Go get it fixed under warranty... Then put the 5100s back on. Guess I shouldn't complain that much since I still have a warranty and its free.

    Anybody ever use spring compressors that you rent from autozone on our springs? Just wandering if they are strong enough to compress ours or not. I have experience using them, thats not the issue. I'm just wandering if they can be used safely with the load Tacoma springs contain?
     
  19. Feb 24, 2010 at 8:42 PM
    #39
    cbcs1987

    cbcs1987 [OP] Redneck from the hills

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    Thanks for all the help everyone. I'm gonna get under there again and try to see if I can specify a specific point causing the vibration/pop.
     
  20. Feb 25, 2010 at 10:35 AM
    #40
    1TUFFTRD

    1TUFFTRD WTF

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    cool thanks
     

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