Elite Off Road Sliders

I am now accepting orders for my Tacoma rock sliders, will build to fit any year Tacoma

Round Tube Slider highlights:
* .120" thick Tube, cut and MIG welded steel structure
* High-lift capable.
* Optional Kick-outs
* Made from 1 3/4" Tubing
* 4 legs to the frame for extended cab and Double cab (3 for single cabs unless specifically requested)

Hybrid Highlights:
* 2x2 square inner tubing .120" wall
* 1 3/4" outer rail tubing .120" wall
* Optional Kick outs
* 4 square tube legs to the frame

These hybrids are built so that the square inner rail is angled up, this provides increased clearance and strength, if you were to hit the slider on a rock, you will hit the corner of the square tube instead of a flat surface which will provide a large difference in strength. the corner of the tube will also slid over a rock better than the flat surface.



Pricing:

• $320 - full round tube Base sliders with 4 legs and no kick-out

• $300 - Hybrid sliders with 2x2 square tube and round outer rail's

• $30 - For kick-out

~ Other custom requests: $TBD Ex. additional kick up for cab and bed protection, and DOM tubing is offered. PM for pricing

Shipping:
$20-$60 depending on location, send your zip code for a quote


Notes:
Installation will require minor vehicle modification of welding the brace plates to the frame.

Order list:
Color coding: Green once payment is received, Blue during build, and red once the sliders have shipped.
1. Manlaan (w/kickout)
2. Zaint (w/Kickout)
3. DonnoD (DC SB Hybrid)
4. Max-4_Yota (HYbrid)
5. Jlee (hybrid)
6. Bivey (hybrid)
7. OlyTacoma173 (Full tube, w/kick-out)
8. Chad B (full tube, W/fBump)
9. Stephan B email (Hybrid w/Kick)
10. Dan W (1st gen - Full tube)
11. KalamaKid (2nd gen - Hybrid w/Kick)
12. Jonnyd182 (Hybrid w/kick)
13. 03TRDtacotrucker (full tube)
14. white2010taco (Hybrid w/kick)
15. MITCH (Hybrid w/kick)
16. Blue (hybrid w/kick up)
17. Banjohauler (Hybrid, Powdercoat black frost)


All sliders can be modified to your personal specifications. PM me if you have anything you would like changed on yours and i will tell you if it can be done.

I will be constantly updating this thread with information to better answer any questions that arise, feel free to ask a question if there is something you don't see an answer to.

Slider Images:

Full Tube W/Kick




Customer Photo's:

 

Do you make bolt on sliders for a 1st gen?

 

i tried to for Manalan but it is somthing that i need to toy with a lot more. its pretty difficult to do on a first gen because we have boxed frames unlike the 2nd gen and there is only about a half inch between the cab and frame. if i can figure out a way then i will but it wont be for a while if i do.
so as for now weld on is only offered, but if you ever wanted to take them off after welding all you would have to do is cut them off with anything of your choice. even a hack saw and just sand down the metal sticking out and you would just be left with a reinforced frame in certain spots, so no harm done.

 

Bolt ons really just dont seem to be able to work right for a 1st gen due to the lack of space between the body and the frame.

One option is you could do a body lift to increase that space, but thats a lot of work. Stock, there's probably about an inch in a few select places between the frame. Some places drop down quite a bit less though. I just cant see how doing a bolt over frame type of setup would have enough room with out either seriously compromising the size of bolt or the reinforcement material above the bolt.

Another option is you could drill the frame and put bolts through it. Given the option of making the frame weaker by poking holes in it, or reinforcing it with welds, I think the better choice to to reinforce.

The other main problem we have is the gas tank and brake lines. The lines can be removed and repositioned pretty easy, but with the tank in the way, it becomes quite difficult to get around the frame to tighten a bolt. You'd pretty much have to use anchors for those mounting points, or completely remove the tank to get to the other side of the frame.

Anyway, I know a few people have offered bolt ons for 1st gens, so I know its possible to some extent, but after Timicha's investigations on it, it seems like an awful lot of compromises on having a secure mount would have to be made.

 

ya pretty much exactly what you are saying and thanks for understanding

 

I have Bolt ons for my 1st gen.. When they were put on they had to push the floor boards up a little bit so if i were to go down it wouldnt put a hole in my body..

 

Ok thanks i never knew that.

 

ya but i dont think this is somthing most people want to do or have to worry about there sliders punching a hole in the floor lol

 

This weekend, remind me to take a look at how your sliders are mounted. I'm really curious now about the gas tank corner.

 

are the 2nd gen bolt onss?

 

2nd gen sliders are either weld on or bolt on because you guys have the c channel frame so it makes it easy to do either.

 

I just thought I'd write up a bit about the sliders after I got them.

First, these are some very beefy sliders. I'm no welder, but to me, the welds on them look very good. The guy that installed them for me was very impressed with the quality of the welds and the sliders as a whole as well.

First thing, I have to admit the reason I bought these instead of others was because of wait time. Everyone else was giving time quotes months before they'd be able to even start. At the time, I thought I might be taking a chance being the first one, but I'm really impressed with how strong they are.

So, I ordered them through private message on the forums for the most part, paid in paypal, etc. Everything went perfectly smooth with no trouble at all, which is always a plus. Timicha tried, at my request, to figure out a bolt on solution, but we decided to stay with the weld ons. I'm sure the bolt on experiment took a few extra days in getting them, but I had them in my hands in two weeks. If it wasn't for the experimentation, I'm sure they would've shipped before a week.

Timicha shipped them in two packages, one with the sliders wrapped in plastic (with a 70+ pound UPS warning label attached - and it wasn't kidding...) and the extra box with the legs, brackets, and corner pieces. The legs were already cutout on one end, so it made installation pretty easy (specially from my bystander point of view).

So, I take them to get installed, showed the welder what I wanted and talked about angles and distances and such and decided to mount them with either a 15 or 20 degree upwards angle (dont remember which). Timicha sent the little gusset corner pieces as well, but we decided it really wasn't necessary to use them. The welder felt these were already so much stronger than any others he's installed (and abused) that even with out the corners, the frame would give out long before the sliders. I'm not sure it was really necessary since they both looked the same to me, but one of the sliders was marked for the drivers side so we did it like that.

It was a bit late by the time I got home, so just parked the truck since I had to wash it and all before pics anyway.

As far as strength goes, I'm not sure how else to show strength except to lift the truck up by the sliders, as even under worst conditions, thats probably about the weight that will be on it anyway.

In the pic below, only the front wheel is off the ground by about an inch. Rears are barely touching. I repositioned the jack a bit further back hoping to get a pic with both wheels off the ground, but ya know, its harder to balance a truck than you'd think. Anyway, after the truck fell off the jack on the second attempt when both wheels were off the ground, I decided that it probably wasn't the smartest thing to do anyway and stopped. On a side note (I know its a little hard to tell with the angle of the truck, etc, but the slider to body distance remained the same (ie, no flex).

I know strength doesn't say much for someone bouncing on them, as I could also bounce on my bolt on steps, but these really aren't moving anywhere.


Just some after thoughts. Originally, I was thinking that the kick out was a bit too much, but after its installed, it really isn't and actually makes a nice solid step for attaching the lights on top of the bar or getting something out of the front of the bed. The main slider lines up pretty close to exact with the fender flares so should protect the body from side rubbing nicely and the kick outs look like they'll do their job great as well.

So, in the end, I guess I'm just saying that I'm very happy with the sliders and have complete confidence in them doing their job when it comes to it. I couldn't have asked for them to be delivered faster and Timicha was great to work with. No complaints at all. After seeing the quality on the sliders (although he didn't know it, it was kinda a test to see if I wanted to order his rear bumper when he gets it done), I'll be first in line for it if I like the design. If I didn't already have an ARB bumper up front, I wouldn't hesitate to put one of Timicha's on.

Now to primer and herculine them...


Anyway, here are some pics. You can see more in my gallery if you want.

 

Thanks for the awesome review man! i'm glad your happy with them and i think they look pretty damn good on your truck, post some pics after you get them painted

 

need a 2nd gen pair of bolt ons...lets get them in production

 

Eric is supposed to be doing all the 2nd gen stuff but maybe I can do a pair for you cause i have a lot of down time when i'm waiting for my cnc guy to cut out bumpers.

 

well, its a dbl cab sb trd sport 07. i guess pm me some numbers when you get a chance. shipping is to 07843.

 

Can these be built out of 1-3/4 instead of 2inch? Thanks very interested in a first gen set.

 

PM'ed you

 

How about for a dbl cab? How much will that run me

 

PM'ed