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jberry's Retarded Desert Penguin

Discussion in '1st Gen. Builds (1995-2004)' started by jberry813, Feb 5, 2011.

  1. Dec 25, 2014 at 11:13 PM
    #3341
    jberry813

    jberry813 [OP] Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    This is the best "like for like" I have.
    First picture is brand new set of F67's on maiden off-road voyage (with single spare).
    Second/third picture is brand new 50T on maiden off-road voyage (with two spares). No other difference in spring/shackle/pivot placement. Just a different spring.

    The uptravel difference is significant...even when judging from a photo.

    7e47c025_01e51f548b7a5d97dad6eb42edd261968f0d6462.jpg

    EF25FFBF-EDDD-451D-9FFD-79BE43E1B366-593_4e731e46705a15f884f9a703cd93312f0700e5bb.jpg

    49369402-95B8-4285-9181-8180C2ADB8F6-593_39d008579129d9742637ac917f3fe2961e597521.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 25, 2014
  2. Dec 25, 2014 at 11:39 PM
    #3342
    06HAOLE

    06HAOLE Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the feedback. I'm going to stick with Deaver after your feedback as well as others who have echoed your opinion.

    Do you think Deaver can use my F67s as a base to build a higher arch pack or should I just sell these and buy a new custom built pack from Deaver?
     
  3. Dec 25, 2014 at 11:48 PM
    #3343
    jberry813

    jberry813 [OP] Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    Probably best to start fresh. You can re-arch the F67's to get more up out of them, but the arch won't last long (6 months tops), especially if you are beating on it. Obviously depends on a number of factors including at what point you set the pack to bump at (negative arch, vs neutral, vs positive arch). I bumped mine so the main leaf was damn near dead nuts flat at full bump...if anything barely negative (see below).

    The E30/H70 has a slightly thicker leaf on the upper leafs with some significant arch to handle weight.

    7D6B25AB-4BC7-497B-ADEB-6DAB0DF41E37-294_3e1daf97dc157e5f4d72358319d4ebf63aa91a5a.jpg

    2557E2C1-0DDC-4309-B813-075CEBEF0C77-157_6277e5eaafb52368552d5cfe4665d36b1d93f463.jpg

    C4262F4D-23F9-4117-88E8-B845690C47DC-157_472068550695c0207415b16827419fcf8eb6cfb9.jpg
     
  4. Dec 31, 2014 at 1:02 PM
    #3344
    jberry813

    jberry813 [OP] Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    It prevents coil bind (when coils max out and touch eachother). With my old springs, according to my calipers, I was hitting coil bind right and bump almost the same time. And yes, as you stated, less preload on the collar. Makes the rebound more predictable (for me at least). YRMV but that's why I got longer springs.

    Springs are springs. Doesn't matter if it's Eibach on SAWs. You may need to measure your saw's tho to see if you can squeeze in an 18" as they are short bodies.
     
  5. Dec 31, 2014 at 1:25 PM
    #3345
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    I just realized your running a flat lower collar now right? How does it clear the cv?

    Also has me worried since my lower collars are cones.
     
  6. Dec 31, 2014 at 1:35 PM
    #3346
    jberry813

    jberry813 [OP] Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    Clears just fine. We have first gens remember :cool:

    It is a little tricky on placement tho. The plate has to be positioned a certain way so the brake banjo bolt goes into the gap at full lock so it doesn't contact it.
     
  7. Dec 31, 2014 at 2:38 PM
    #3347
    JuansTaco

    JuansTaco JuanInAMillion

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    ESB long travel kit, Deaver f67s with DTF 12 inch shackles.
    do you happen to have the old tapered ones still? im in need of a set so im not hitting my mounts on the lower
     
  8. Dec 31, 2014 at 3:17 PM
    #3348
    jberry813

    jberry813 [OP] Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    It's one more loop but it's also 2" longer in length.
    Same rate.


    No I don't.
     
  9. Dec 31, 2014 at 3:28 PM
    #3349
    jberry813

    jberry813 [OP] Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    Let me put it differently. With my 16" coils and preload set to the ride height I wanted, I mic'd all the gaps in the springs and added them together and it was just less than 8" (shock shaft stroke).
    With my 18" springs, doing the same exercise I have more than 8" of spring gap at the exact same ride height.
     
  10. Dec 31, 2014 at 4:03 PM
    #3350
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    Wonder if I should get some flat ones..
     
  11. Dec 31, 2014 at 6:05 PM
    #3351
    jberry813

    jberry813 [OP] Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    Measure your spring gaps first.
    Also as you know, I have a TC kit. Lower shock mounts are slightly different. Easy to draw a line with a laser level tho to see if it will work.
     
  12. Dec 31, 2014 at 7:13 PM
    #3352
    VolcomTacoma

    VolcomTacoma Well-Known Member

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    How have I missed this thread for so long?
     
  13. Jan 2, 2015 at 12:25 PM
    #3353
    SeekingZero

    SeekingZero Well-Known Member

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    Sub'd. Love this truck! Nice work man.
     
  14. Jan 2, 2015 at 6:39 PM
    #3354
    06HAOLE

    06HAOLE Well-Known Member

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    I saw that you signed up for Super. Looking forward to checking this thing out in person.
     
  15. Jan 2, 2015 at 8:33 PM
    #3355
    jberry813

    jberry813 [OP] Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    :notsure:


    Thanks


    Cool, stop by for sure.


    In other news...did a little prep work on the truck including shortening my bumps. Huge pain in the ass. Took a 12" pipe wrench, 3 foot cheater bar, and a blowtorch to take them apart. Less than 2 year old Fox bumps. Their coating simply sucks by comparison. Wire wheeled the hell out of them and bathed them in anti-seize before putting it all back together.

    74ca23e03bf4fe9789249909672ca32e_6b56aa9c9370478c75b743e5562fc4474c2451ca.jpg
     
  16. Jan 2, 2015 at 8:56 PM
    #3356
    lotsoftoys

    lotsoftoys pavement is boring....

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    bunch of crap
    wow what is te deal with fox hock bodies rusting so bad???? youd think they would change their ways after so many complaints...
    why u shortening? wanting more up travel?
     
  17. Jan 2, 2015 at 9:09 PM
    #3357
    jberry813

    jberry813 [OP] Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    Ehhh, still better than SAW. Bumps are harder to take care of (regardless of manufacture) because they are sleeved inside a can. I coated them with fluid film when I installed them, but still metal on metal contact with my winters and not a dry desert.

    Shortening them just shortens the stroke. Same amount of uptravel, but they don't touch the strike pads as soon.

    Since I added the extra leaf in the pack last year I've been fighting the rear shock tuning. It's still bucking more than I want, even after multiple bypass revalves and at only 70 psi in the bumps. So shortening them and increasing the nitrogen pressure and see what happens.
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2015
  18. Jan 2, 2015 at 9:39 PM
    #3358
    jberry813

    jberry813 [OP] Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    Shrug. I'm just an internet expert and installed them like I saw everyone else did. I'm sure there is, but Fox coating still leaves a bit to be desired. The bodies are steel.
     
  19. Jan 2, 2015 at 9:47 PM
    #3359
    jberry813

    jberry813 [OP] Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    LOL. No apologies necessary. The cans come bare metal. I painted them best I could but the tolerances are pretty tight. I'm sure if it was powder coated, it would be a bitch to get the bumps in the cans. The alternative would be a double pinch can which would allow the can to be spread more. Unfortunately the double pinch cans wouldn't work for my particular application. The lower pinch bolt would contact the tire at flex.
    Gives and takes.
    They still work great and nobody knows they look like shit when installed. I'm hoping the anti-seize bath on the bodies will work better and last longer. Maybe I'll check them more than once every other year too :anonymous:


    Oh and...got uptravel? Tires are still on the ground too. :D

    [​IMG]
     
  20. Jan 11, 2015 at 9:55 PM
    #3360
    jberry813

    jberry813 [OP] Professional Fluffer Moderator

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