The Frankenstein Build! LT/Expo/Trail rig..and BS

thoughts on something like this? http://www.crutchfield.com/p_020XC1410/Clarion-XC1410.html?tp=35782

 

Mmmmm what where you speakers exactly?? Like all the nice details?


Looking at it without knowing your speakers details..here are my thoughts:

No true gain adjustment. Just high and low..don't like that at all. You can dial in the correct gain.
It's a type D amp,it's why it's so small. D amps are very efficient. But they tend to not sound as good in the higher freq then a A/B. not a huge deal..but for clarity, I'd go with an A/B amp.
The HPF is only 60 or 90Hz. I'd want it a bit higher but that's just me. Usually headunits have a built in one now anyways. But always nice.

 

front, http://www.crutchfield.com/p_107DXI6501/Polk-Audio-DXi6501.html?tp=105

rear, http://www.crutchfield.com/p_107DXI651/Polk-Audio-DXi651.html?tp=105

my HU is http://www.crutchfield.com/p_105AVX...earch=JVC+KWAVX740&osp=jvc+kw-avx740&tp=20217

 

thinking it might be a good option as it's compact and would be an upgrde from the 20 watt rms HU output going to the 50 watt rms of the amp...

not going to be running a sub, so 4-ch is all i need really..

 

might be able to fit the amp under my center console too which would make hiding wires easy

 

Ya that amp isn't powerful enough. Only 50w rms feeding 100w rms speaks and 60w rms speakers.

It would work but it won't drive them good. It would be an improvement but not a drastic one. I'd get a bigger amp.

 

would i get a 60w and go with the lower amount or try to get closer to the 100w?

 

from crutchfield..

RMS...Pairs should be the same, but if your front and rear pairs are slightly different, it's okay — use the lower rating. Multiply that number by 75% (0.75) — this is the minimum RMS wattage the amp you're looking for should have per channel. Now, multiply that rating number by 150% (1.5) — this is the maximum output power per channel you'll want for your amp


so i would need RMS ranging from 45-90

 

this guy is relatively small too.. 7x1.5x4.25

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_575PBR3004/Rockford-Fosgate-PBR300X4.html?tp=35782#details-tab

but 2x as much

75w RMS

 

Monte, our family is gonna be moving to MS in the next year so i figure i should prep my truck for driving ~1,800 miles in 2 days, We're not sure if i'll be towing anything, but there is a possibility of me having the quad in the back.

Should i get a trans cooler? i have the auto trans, no tow package.

I know that the trans in our f-250 is quite warm by the time we get to MS (you can feel the heat coming through the floorboard).

 

If you are just having a quad in the back I wouldn't worry about it.

But if you know you will be towing stuff in the future it's never a bad idea to have. Pretty cheap insurance.

 

I disagree with this.

Id go with the higher rated speakers. You can ALWAYS turn down the gain on the amp which you will do to set your gain staging correctly. you'll set the gain for the rears..and the fronts, totally seperate. That said, id go with something that will power the 100w speakers easily. It'll handle the 60w no problem, the gain on the amp will just be down a bit.

id go for an amp of at least 110w RMS..which is gonna be harder to find..but not impossible.

Gotta pay to play haha

that amp i like MUCH better. the the first. You can set the gains for the rear and front separate. Nothing fancy on the LPF or HPF but has them.

only thing i personally don't like is it doesn't ultilize the RCA preamps..paint to wire with out those.

Signal to nosie ratio is a bit low too..but probably won't notice.

I'd still personally get a stronger amp..but it'll work. Your speakers will still be a bit starved.

they do help the autos a lot. That said, i drove 1300 miles out to St Louis and had no issues. Had the cab full of stuff.

it can't hurt, but not super needed yet id guess.

 

In frank or the 03?

From what i've read it's cheap insurance to get one, not that much money and they can help the life of the fluid and trans.

 

Frank is a 5 speed

My 03 is the auto double cab. Just like yours.

yea like i said, it doesn't hurt, but if you can't do it..don't worry to much about it.

 

Get a scanguage and monitor your trans temp.

 

Cool, I'll see what I can do

Scan gauge is to much $$$
I do have a old droid, the free torque app, and a Bluetooth OBD thingie though, that'll work if I find a way to mount it and get it power cleanly.

 

I monitor my tranny fluid temps very closely. Tho I don't tow, I do carry a lot of weight. I have seem high fluid temps only when climbing. This happens both on the highway and the trail. Never happens on flat ground, regardless of speed or load.

A

$51 Hayden 678 Universal Rapid-Cool 9.5” x 11” Add-On Transmission Cooler – Not for Direct Replacement of the OE Cooler

Hayden 678 passive cooler is on my mod list for this winter.

I totally agree with this.

Only a scangauge is capable of showing you the actual fluid temps in real time. Without one you will never know when the temps are too high. No android app is going to do this and the dash indicator is worthless.

 

There's suppose to be a hack for torque to read the trans fluid temp, but it hasn't been tested on 1st gens.

 

sub'd


such a sick truck man. love that rack tent... me and a buddy have been looking at those recently..

 

Thanks man! I love the rack, it turned out great.

CVT tents are awesome too! Really any RTT is sweet. Makes trips super nice!!