RMS...Pairs should be the same, but if your front and rear pairs are slightly different, it's okay use the lower rating. Multiply that number by 75% (0.75) this is the minimum RMS wattage the amp you're looking for should have per channel. Now, multiply that rating number by 150% (1.5) this is the maximum output power per channel you'll want for your amp
so i would need RMS ranging from 45-90
Id go with the higher rated speakers. You can ALWAYS turn down the gain on the amp which you will do to set your gain staging correctly. you'll set the gain for the rears..and the fronts, totally seperate. That said, id go with something that will power the 100w speakers easily. It'll handle the 60w no problem, the gain on the amp will just be down a bit.
id go for an amp of at least 110w RMS..which is gonna be harder to find..but not impossible.
this guy is relatively small too.. 7x1.5x4.25
but 2x as much
that amp i like MUCH better. the the first. You can set the gains for the rear and front separate. Nothing fancy on the LPF or HPF but has them.
only thing i personally don't like is it doesn't ultilize the RCA preamps..paint to wire with out those.
Signal to nosie ratio is a bit low too..but probably won't notice.
I'd still personally get a stronger amp..but it'll work. Your speakers will still be a bit starved.
Monte, our family is gonna be moving to MS in the next year so i figure i should prep my truck for driving ~1,800 miles in 2 days, We're not sure if i'll be towing anything, but there is a possibility of me having the quad in the back.
Should i get a trans cooler? i have the auto trans, no tow package.
I know that the trans in our f-250 is quite warm by the time we get to MS (you can feel the heat coming through the floorboard).
they do help the autos a lot. That said, i drove 1300 miles out to St Louis and had no issues. Had the cab full of stuff.
it can't hurt, but not super needed yet id guess.