LOTSOFTOYS PANDA BUILD

ok need some advice, i ghink i know what i wanna do but hell ill see what others would do as well.

here is a pick of the leaf pack and stock bump stop. im about to do a ubolt flip and mount a larger bumpstop that actually will contact and work.... do i mount the bump stop on the frame facing down or the on the ubolt flip plate facing up?

 

here is whats in my mind....

lop off the factory little bump stop on plate. weld in a 2 x 2 or maybe 3x2 about 6 inches long then weld or bolt my bump stop to it facing down. obviously id be measuring way more precise when figuirng out bump stop heigth. but u get the idea. then imagine the bump stop contacting the large fip kit top plate ontop of the the leafs.

 

or.... i mount the bump stop facing upwards and make a larger contact spot on top...

 

using these...



on this

 

might be a pain to mount those over the striking pad on the frame

 

does the flip kit allow easy mounting on the leafs for the bumps?

what's the top of the flip plate look like?

 

thats why i drew a different longer part id have to make and weld on the frame....

no. the bumps are longer than the flip kit plate. id still have to weld a rectangle piece to the top plate. if i were to mount the bump facing up, im not sure the stock striming plate would be large enough

 

so either way you'd have to modify the top striking plate...either cutting it off or modify it and making a mounting spot for the bump or modifying the flip plate and modify the striking pad

seems like in that case i'd modify the striking plate to make it a mount for the bumps and mount them up there...

 

thats what im thinkin.... fu*k me this is gonna be alot of work gettin this all set up

 

weld two 90*, on either side to extend the striking plate with some holes to slide some bolts through for mounting...

|_|X|_|

where the |X| is the stock striking plate

 

that would'nt look cheezy u think? im thinkin of measuring obviously but maybe cutting the striking plate off completely, then rewelding a new longer rectangle piece in.

 

Bob's idea isn't a bad one to make the strike plate larger, as long as it's the right distance from the springs. You might find that you need to space the bumps down even farther.

FYI, I'm assuming you have new poly bumps. If you try to weld a space to the back of the factory bump you'll end up with two worthless bumps. As me how I know.

The factory bumps are glued somehow to the mounting plate. When I welded a spacer to the back of them it melted enough of the rubber in the bump that it just fell off. Awesome.

 

yes they r poly. with holes on each side. i was hoping to bolt them on, easier to adjust heigth that way. but u dont think it would look cheezy like this....

 

Nope, doesn't seem cheezy at all to me. Seems like the right approach. You have a better idea?

 

He's not trying to get the two rubber bumps to hit each other. The stock one will be thrown out, and the new poly bump mounted to the frame will contact the new ubolt plate on top of the springs.

 

i was thinkin of cutting off the factory striker pad and wleding in a 2x2 or 3x2 in place of it, about 6" long.... kinda like this

 

worked all day long on the freakin ubolt flip.... what a pain in the ass....

started off bad when i quickly realized the top allpro plate wasnt gonna work for me, because i have the axle relocation plate installed. so i removed the plate and drilled a new hole 3/4 of an inch offset so it would match the relocation plate. ok, now the u bolt flip was on..... now onto the shocks

 

How do you plan on mounting your shocks?

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