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2002 tacoma race build

Discussion in '1st Gen. Builds (1995-2004)' started by linked2002, Aug 17, 2011.

  1. Jun 15, 2013 at 9:41 AM
    #361
    Cr250jumper

    Cr250jumper Señor member

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    Nice to see some progress man. When this thing moves I'm coming to see it!
     
  2. Jun 15, 2013 at 12:15 PM
    #362
    TC yota

    TC yota Well-Known Member

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    Hard to tell but is there any lift built into those?
     
  3. Jun 15, 2013 at 4:00 PM
    #363
    linked2002

    linked2002 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    links, custom 6 over arms, full 1.75 d.o.m. cage, 35 gallon cell, etc
    Nope. For proper KPI I was t able to place any lift into the spindle.
     
  4. Jun 15, 2013 at 7:39 PM
    #364
    TC yota

    TC yota Well-Known Member

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    Starting with a bare snout block you could put the kpi where ever it needs to be
     
  5. Jun 15, 2013 at 10:46 PM
    #365
    linked2002

    linked2002 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    links, custom 6 over arms, full 1.75 d.o.m. cage, 35 gallon cell, etc
    Indeed. But you can only move the KPI line in so far before the bolt hits the back of the snout block. When your running KPI off of the wms of the rotor with this backing plate, if you put the bolt head against the back of the block ( as far in as physically possible without ruining structural integrity of snout block) 12* still yields you an inch and a quarter positive scrub radius at the wms. More KPI is out of the question and more positive scrub will be detrimental. I'm all ears to ideas.
     
  6. Jun 16, 2013 at 10:13 AM
    #366
    TC yota

    TC yota Well-Known Member

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    Sounds like you got it figured out! At least its not a 4x chassis where you need the extra ground clearance haha
     
  7. Jun 16, 2013 at 3:36 PM
    #367
    linked2002

    linked2002 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    links, custom 6 over arms, full 1.75 d.o.m. cage, 35 gallon cell, etc
    thats what im saying! hahah. right now i have the bottom bolt and nut so snug to the backing plate, that you cant even get to the nut with a wrench. it sits inside the vertical support and is sammiched between the 2 plates. only takes one ratchet from the bottom to install/remove spindles! so effing nice!

    on a side note, tyler, send me a text to kick me in the dick tomorrow afternoon to get down to fiberwerks for you. ive been meaning to and realize i need to as i pull up my damn driveway.
     
  8. Jun 16, 2013 at 5:34 PM
    #368
    TC yota

    TC yota Well-Known Member

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    Haha will do man thanks!
     
  9. Jun 16, 2013 at 6:04 PM
    #369
    noSKills858

    noSKills858 battlescars

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  10. Jun 18, 2013 at 11:26 AM
    #370
    Werkro01

    Werkro01 Senior Clown

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    Golly gee! This sure is a swell build! That gosh darn 3-link sure does look sturdy. I sure do like what I'm seeing so far.
     
  11. Jun 18, 2013 at 11:29 AM
    #371
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    ...too much shit to list.
    That's a 4 link.
     
  12. Jun 18, 2013 at 11:56 AM
    #372
    Werkro01

    Werkro01 Senior Clown

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  13. Jun 18, 2013 at 12:12 PM
    #373
    linked2002

    linked2002 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Werkro is correct. I have a triangulated three link with a single vertical 1-1/4" vertical heim.
     
  14. Jun 18, 2013 at 12:18 PM
    #374
    jberry813

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    ...too much shit to list.
    I stand corrected! Thanks.
     
  15. Jun 18, 2013 at 12:23 PM
    #375
    Werkro01

    Werkro01 Senior Clown

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    Linked, you forgot to mention that it's awesome! Just wondering if there would be any advantages to that wishbone style 3-link that the Jeep is running? I'd think it would spread out the forces differently than your straight pieces. Any ideas? Either way I think that triangulated 3-link is pretty tops.
     
  16. Jun 18, 2013 at 1:33 PM
    #376
    Southern01Taco

    Southern01Taco Well-Known Member

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    It should be the exact same. The upper links mainly control the pinion angle through the stroke. The only things that would make the jeep differ from OP's is link lengths and angles. And I'm pretty sure that a wishbone 3-link with the same angles and lengths as a 4-link are going to act exactly the same. I'm not a 100% sure on that one though.

    To the OP, this is an awesome build.
     
  17. Jun 18, 2013 at 7:43 PM
    #377
    linked2002

    linked2002 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Southerntaco hit the nail on the head. There is no variation I'm my design vs that jeeps other than the fact it looks that the jeeps lowers are parallel with the frame rails as opposed to triangulated as well that is where I would say I have the advantage. When you place your lower links exactly parallel with the rails you see much more extreme forces at the ends. With a slight angle built inboard, it forms a triangle which is also more structurally sound than parallel bars. Either way I'm sure it serves its purpose and many many many people run parallel links, just not this guy.

    And thank you all for the compliments. Been a long time coming but light is at the end of the tunnel now.
     
  18. Jun 23, 2013 at 11:24 AM
    #378
    linked2002

    linked2002 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    links, custom 6 over arms, full 1.75 d.o.m. cage, 35 gallon cell, etc
    Both sides tacked together, both sides cycled, both sides dialed. It's time to make this shit happen.
     
  19. Jun 27, 2013 at 9:54 PM
    #379
    linked2002

    linked2002 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    links, custom 6 over arms, full 1.75 d.o.m. cage, 35 gallon cell, etc
    Yup. So now I need rotors and calipers ( have a caliper but would prefer another set) from a solid axle front end. The mis calculated wording of the ad that I picked the spindle flanges up from sort of just screwed me. Only real reason I went with this company as opposed to machining them myself was because the ad said all of the parts I had sitting in my garage would work. Well, not including cost of the flanges, I'm out 500 in parts because none of the stuff I had fit as advertised. Not a happy individual to say the least. Sending the slotted rotors I have back hopefully and hope to recoup funds.

    If anyone has the parts I've requested, it would be much appreciated. And since I've had a conflict on this site before regarding a parts request, here are the exact years:
    Pre 89 (1988 and prior folks) solid axle front end mini trucks. I am looking for stock calipers and stock rotors.

    Thanks for any help.
     
  20. Jun 28, 2013 at 7:57 AM
    #380
    Werkro01

    Werkro01 Senior Clown

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    Long Bed Leer cap, Wheather tech floor liners, Black badges, Demello Offroad front plate bumper, rear wrap around tube bumper and sliders. Scorpion lined bed, rocker panels and fender flares.
    So your going solid axle front end... I feel like you're gonna have to do some fabbing. Not the whole thing but some. Have you checked out any of the salvage yards around? That would be where I would go looking for something like that.

    Wish I could help. Good luck finding those parts.
     

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