45acp’s DIVORCED build!

No straight up and down is good

Seems a bit inboard. But I'm sure it would work good

 

The coils will clear the truss like that? Newb question but... I am a newb


It would certainly give you more room from the brakes at full flex and some more uptravel which I'd think you'd want at KOH speeds

I've been lurking in here drooling over your truck for a while, I can't wait to see when you're done cutting

 

i think thats a good idea considering your space concerns and short shocks.

 

For some actual official numbers for once -

Full bump to full droop, the pinion angle changes 10 degrees. Driveshaft slip is a total of 2 inches. I'm happy with that.

I'm trying to keep them as perpendicular to the axle as possible considering that they're set closer to the center. I might move the top mounts in an inch or so but that's about it.

Would being 2.5"s and add bypasses make up for it?

Ahh F it. I'm gonna run with this. I think it's just a matter of proper valving. Hell, LT guys deal with extra leverage all the time with trailing arms.

I can't wait either. Yes the coils will clear the truss.

I can't even use all the shock (only when flexed) because the lower link will hit near where the tubing meets the original frame. It's nothing I can't cut... I mean fix, though.

 

Yea some valve tweaking and bypasses will make it run great I'm sure.

 

No straight up and down shocks are fucking stupid. Look at any KoH rig... They are all /\... If you have straight up and down shocks under articulation the shock will invert and becomes / looks retarded.

 

How's that possible with links?

Not being a dick, just curious!

 

Well better get cutting then

X2. At what point can the shock invert? Probably just need to angle them forward or back a bit

 

Straight up and down is the best dampening.

Physically impossible to invert a coil over haha

You could slant them in no doubt though. Just have to valve it right

 

Right, straight up and down is the best dampening, however... For jumping... desert racing and such. Not Ultra 4 racing.

Yeah I meant slanting them in, wrong usage of wording

But, I'd still angle them to the point when full droop on one side and full bump on another the shock does not go past vertical (towards the inner of the truck).

 

This. With a three link, the axle shifts laterally based on the swing of the panhard. If the shocks were mounted vertically like this || at ride height, when flexed out completely in one direction, due to the lateral shift, the shocks would be like // and are no longer properly supporting the vehicle. This allows for extreme body roll and usually rollovers.

Compare that to what Eric and I are saying...mounted like this /\ flexed and axle shifted becomes this /| and things are still supported and stable.

It only takes a few inches slant over the length of the shock to accomplish this. We're not talking how people slant them to stuff 14" shocks under the bed of a first gen.

 

3-4" I bet is all it'll take to do that.

 

It didn't even take that much for me. I leaned them back using the same principle. Axle swings back and rotates based on the links so I leaned it back like / so when flexed it never goes past this | . Just enough to accomplish what I needed to do.

 

That makes sense. I'd agree with that

What about for word for axle movement?

 

You set them up at bump, at bump the axle is all the way forward.

 

Hit the nail on the head ^ you want a little angle on the shocks just enough to have the coil overs like so / l when fully flexed out.

 

This and this ^^

I just didn't explain it well enough haha.

 

Hm, I never considered this when I was building mine. They are angled in a little, guess I'll have to check that

 

Yea you were talking crazy