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The Lumpskie Build - '96 5-speed

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Old 05-19-2013, 05:48 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by Lumpskie View Post
I can't remember the actual lengths right now, and this is the only picture I took of it:


But, I want to say that the extended length of the Tundra shock is just under 21" (I think it was 20.88 or something like that). It's an 8" shock so that would put the compressed length right around 13" even. I'll have to check, but I think I have 1.5-2 inches of compression left in my shock when I'm at my bump stop. Looks like a JK shock would work, but I don't know if 2" is worth $200 for new shocks...


That's interesting about your 10" 5150s being longer than my 12" 7100s. Did you say that you are basically at the shock's stops when you are at full droop? If so, I can reasonably expect to do the same on my 7100s, once I take care of my binding issues...

Good info!
Yea looks I retesting..not sure what coils would fit them tho..I might look into it more. Would be cool for sure. I could sell my 5100s in a heart beat on here to help offset cost a bit. As could you. But not sure I'd want to if the jeep shocks didn't work! Haha

And shit sorry. I forgot yours were 12"

Extended is 27.68 collapsed is 16.10

I doubt your at the bottom of 27" I know I'm pretty close if not maxing out my 10" ones.
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Old 05-19-2013, 09:03 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by Blackdawg View Post
Yea looks I retesting..not sure what coils would fit them tho..I might look into it more. Would be cool for sure. I could sell my 5100s in a heart beat on here to help offset cost a bit. As could you. But not sure I'd want to if the jeep shocks didn't work! Haha

And shit sorry. I forgot yours were 12"

Extended is 27.68 collapsed is 16.10

I doubt your at the bottom of 27" I know I'm pretty close if not maxing out my 10" ones.
Yeah, I'm in the same boat with the jeep shocks. I know there are a couple of other guys out here that might give it a try. If they prove it works, then I'll let you know

As far as the rear shocks go, it's good to know that I should still have some length to play with... just in case I decide to do something drastic down the road. (I'm sure you know what that feels like)
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Old 05-19-2013, 09:08 PM   #43
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Smile

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lumpskie View Post
Yeah, I'm in the same boat with the jeep shocks. I know there are a couple of other guys out here that might give it a try. If they prove it works, then I'll let you know

As far as the rear shocks go, it's good to know that I should still have some length to play with... just in case I decide to do something drastic down the road. (I'm sure you know what that feels like)
Honestly I dont think it would be worth it. The cvs will bind horribly with at much droop. Why the arms are longer too in LT.

Drastic..I like drastic..
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Old 05-20-2013, 01:44 PM   #44
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Drastic..I like drastic..
^That's why you need to get your dual cases and a rear ARB. Go big or go home!
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Old 05-20-2013, 01:54 PM   #45
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nice build you have going on here
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Old 05-20-2013, 01:55 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by Lumpskie View Post
And then I got serious... I decided to go with the Inchworm dual case setup.









I really want a crawl box. But, in the constant muddy terrain around here, I'm not sure it would make much of a difference.

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Originally Posted by Lumpskie View Post
^That's why you need to get your dual cases and a rear ARB. Go big or go home!
Don't forget the front ARB! It makes for a CV snapping good time!
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Old 05-20-2013, 02:49 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NYCO View Post
nice build you have going on here
Thanks man! If you're ever near chatfield lake, you should check it out!

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Don't forget the front ARB! It makes for a CV snapping good time!
That's why I'm not locked up front... I'm skerred
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Old 05-20-2013, 04:17 PM   #48
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Ok, back to work on this thread. So, building a dual transfer case setup comes in three major sections...

#1 Drilling and prep (includes removal of stock t-case and driveshafts)
#2 Dry fitting process
#3 Final Install

So, the Inchworm adapter plate (t-case to t-case) comes with a 0 degree and 10 degree clocking option. This is the clocking for the crawl box. I chose the 0 degree option. With the help of a drill press owning buddy, I got 7 holes drilled into my front adapter plate. These holes will have the crawl box clocked at 0 degrees. We also filed down some burrs, and flattened out a section that wasn't quite flat.




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Old 05-20-2013, 04:20 PM   #49
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Step #2


The truck went beyond the point of no return, thanks to the the help of my buddy, Gerdo. Pulled off the driveshafts and dropped them off at Rocky Mountain Driveline. Then we got busy on the crawl box stuff. We pulled my transfer case off, split it, and resealed it. (it had a slow leak) Then we bolted the two cases together and started the dry-fit process. After some banging on the floor, we got the cases into what will be their final position. (~15* clock)


Pictures:

Gerdo removing coupler from the stock t-case


Floor Clearance done.


On the jack, rolling under the truck (we ended up just bench pressing it)


View through the floor


View from under the truck. Clocked ~15 degrees, the T-case is almost flush with the frame rails. Close enough for me.


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Old 05-20-2013, 04:24 PM   #50
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Step #3 Finish Floor mods and final install


Dual cases sealed.


Floor cut for shifter.


Drive shafts modified and reinstalled.
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Old 05-20-2013, 04:26 PM   #51
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So, that left me with an interior looking like this:



But not for long... It was time for triple sticks....

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Old 05-20-2013, 04:58 PM   #53
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You're right. They dual cases actually really help too. But... fixing that rear bind is objective #1 right now.

A wise man once said Oh my... the plans... the money. He's right.
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Old 05-20-2013, 05:34 PM   #54
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Ok, so before I installed the triple sticks I modified them a bit. First, I bent the levers away from each other, then cut the levers to match the height of the crawl box shifter.



iraked back the shifters 20 degrees or so and one of the lever arms underneath had to be re clearanced.



Then I fit everything into the bezel. It have to be moved backward about 2 inches, but everything fit.
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Old 05-20-2013, 07:39 PM   #55
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sweet truck!!!!

Did you use 2nd gen tundra shocks and coils?
I will be watching about the jeep shocks as well!!
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Old 05-20-2013, 08:13 PM   #56
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Originally Posted by toastyjosh View Post
sweet truck!!!!

Did you use 2nd gen tundra shocks and coils?
I will be watching about the jeep shocks as well!!
So, I used the Toytec coilover collars with 2nd gen tacoma 16" Toytec (eibach) coils. The shocks are from a first gen tundra. (I believe) What I like about this setup is that there is no spacer involved and my coilovers are set only about a third of the way up for about 3" of lift. This reduces the preload on the springs an allows them to flex really well.

If you end up using the JK shocks, post up you experiences. I'm eager to hear how they work out!
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Old 05-20-2013, 08:15 PM   #57
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So, after I installed the triple sticks, I had to come up with a way to hide the linkage. Most people have a center console to cover it all up but I do not. So, I decided that making a raised section of floor was the best solution. Once again, Gerdo to the rescue with his hammer on bean bag skills:






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Old 05-20-2013, 08:23 PM   #58
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so what sold you on the twin stick upgrade?
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Old 05-20-2013, 08:32 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lumpskie View Post
You're right. They dual cases actually really help too. But... fixing that rear bind is objective #1 right now.

A wise man once said Oh my... the plans... the money. He's right.
A wise man indeed

i love that triple stick setup man..seriously so sick

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so what sold you on the twin stick upgrade?
whats not to like? Have low range and low low range in 2wd drive so you can take sharp corners without the CVs binding. Freaking sweet.
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Old 05-21-2013, 06:56 AM   #60
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Quote:
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so what sold you on the twin stick upgrade?
So there were a couple of reasons I liked the Twin stick. The first one was related to my bench seat. The rear t-case shifter popped out just in front of the seat when I drove the truck. My wife needs the seat closer to the steering wheel to reach the pedals and she couldn't do that with the shifter there.

The second reason was for the ability to choose 2-wheel high, 2-low, 4-low, low-low all independant of one another. I can choose where the loading in my drivetrain goes now. Also, if I choose to upgrade to 4.7 gears for the front case, I can go 2.57:1, 4.7:1 and 12.1:1 however I want.

Finally was just aethetics. I think it looks nicer with all the shifter lined up in the stock bezel. I wanted it to look as stock as possible... I'm a nerd like that!
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