CascadesTacoma 2001 TRD Build

How to replace your front pads and rotors:

Upgraded the break pads and rotors this weekend.
EBC Ultimax USR Slotted Sport Break Rotors (Part #: USR7235) - Ebay $162.84
EBC Green Stuff Pads (Part # DP6807) - AutoAnything.com $54.99

Tools:
-Hammer
-Punch
-Any flat screwdriver to get out the Brake Caliper Guide Pin retention pin
-Some WD-40 to help lubricate rusted parts

1. Raise front end and place truck on jack stands. If you don't have jack stands, borrow some from a buddy; they make working under your truck much easier since you can lift the entire front end and take both front wheels off without worrying about losing hydraulic pressure and suffering a slow and painful to watch plummet to the pavement.

2. Remove front wheel and spacer (if you have one). It helps to loosen all the lug nuts before you jack up the truck, but in case you forgot, of if you have spacers, use a short piece of 2x4 (or anything) to depress the breaks allowing you to finish removing the wheels/spacers.

3. At this point, I will direct you to a great Youtube video doing exactly what I did:
1995-2004 Toyota Tacoma front brakes remove/install rotors and pads

4. You may have noticed just how easily the mechanic removed the Brake Caliper Guide Pin. If your truck is like mine, you will have to use a hammer and a punch and some solid cursing to push out the pins. Many people end up destroying one or all: in my case, it was only the passenger side which suffered. Anyway, not all is lost, BrakeBest Hardware has you covered for only $4.29. So, hammer away. Also, on the topic of punches, if you don't have a set, you should definitely invest: they are fantastic for removing the caliper pins, the bottom strut bolt (or whatever it's called) and plenty of over spots.
Here you can see the pins before I pressed them back in, never fear if you destroy them, just plan ahead if you need to head off to the auto parts store.



5. Another important note, your breaks will squeak some after the install, but that is because you'll need to wear off the grime/brown stuff which comes on the pads to help them set to the rotors (or whatever the instructions say).

6. Make sure you secure your calipers. I don't recommend putting them between the spindle and the shield: if you're like me you'll end up knocking them off. The bungie method worked very well.


Anyway, easy little write up as the video does most of the talking.

The before picture:

 

Two week marathon build will start this week. The to-do list:

1. Install auxiliary battery

I unbolted the CCM and moved its wiring loom to the otherside of the igniter. I'll fab up a small mounting plate to replace the stock plate which will fit the three already threaded holes on the sidewall. Should allow enough room for the yellow top. I've got a 500amp solenoid arriving this week with my CS-144. Right now the wiring will go: alternator - main battery - solenoid - auxiliary battery. I'm using a 150amp ANL fuse between the alternator and the starter battery and a 100amp fuse between the auxiliary battery and my auxiliary (Blue Sea) fuse panel.

2. Build small roof rack for above the cab

Sketching it up now but trying to get around having to mount it to the top of my cab and instead building a gusseted support for each side coming from the bed. I'll post a sketch tomorrow or the next day. It won't have to carry much weight, but will be used to hold my solar panel (have all the parts, just need to wire the cells together and figure a cheap way to encapsulate it not using Slygard 184) some lights and lighter items.

3. Fabricate my front bumper

This will take an entire day to mock up with cardboard, another day to cut the pieces from sheet and begin tacking, a third day to fix all the problems encountered along the way, a fourth day to finish welding it, and a fifth day to grind, paint, and finish. So basically, all of the second week... if all goes well. My plan is to use my existing bull bar as the top center hoop for my bumper and I'm thinking of doing Elite style headlight hoops.

4. Skid plate

I'll use 3/16" plate and will have to make some custom mounting points since a few of my existing skid mounting points rusted solid and the threading is now shot from when I installed my diff drop.

I'm ordering all my metal from Online Metals since they have a distributor in Seattle and their prices are very very low. Anyway, I'll update as I go along and I welcome any feedback on ideas. My inspiration to build my own bumper came from this build on Expedition Portal.

5. Storage in the sides of the bed with a bed platform

I'll build a sliding storage drawer later but for now I want to get the side storage compartments in and the bed platform sorted out. After all this work I plan on including a shower (hot if I can work out a cheap way) and water using a great water jug I got from work. I've thought about moving my spare tire to the back and putting water storage in its place but that'll have to wait till I can build the rear bumper.

 

Began messing around with designs last night. I'm far better with pencil and paper than CAD but it's available on the work computers so why not.

As you can see, with the roof rack I'm trying to get it free standing all supported from the bed without touching the truck roof.

For the bumper and CAD in general (those of you who use it regularly), what is the best way to draft up separate sections of sheet metal? Should I do the 2d planes then PressPull then snap each piece like a puzzle?

 

For anyone wanting to install an auxiliary battery, here is where I moved the CCM and what my new mounting plate looks like. The new plate uses three existing threaded holes on the body so I didn't have to drill anything.

 

Installed the new alternator and cleaned up the wiring over the last two days.

The old battery must have leaked extensively before I replaced it with an Optima which resulted in some serious rust under the flimsy plastic battery tray. I sanded out all the rust and applied a few coats of Rustoleum. I fabricated a new mount and riveted it down to the body (cheap rivet gun is a great tool). Also, the reason my terminals are where they are is I got a great deal on the battery from a friend ($75 if I remember correctly) so decided I could make it work.



Installed the CS-144 alternator which allowed me to learn all about the charging and power system of the 2001 Tacoma. I had three random washers which almost fit the 1/4" gap necessitating some liberal grinding of one washer to make them fit. My OEM alternator had a slight shake in the wheel but the new one does not. I've noticed the idle on ignition goes down much faster with the bigger alternator (may not be related).

I cleaned up the wiring during the install and here is how it looks:

Alternater (4AWG, red) -> 150amp ANL fuse -> Battery
Battery (10AWG, white) -> fuse box
Battery (4AWG, black) -> ground under engine and ground on body

The black 0/1AWG cable from the positive terminal is the power for the starter. Once my 500amp solenoid arrives tomorrow or Monday, I'll run a 4AWG cable around to the other side where the auxiliary battery is mounted. I mounted the 150amp fuse to the top of the fuse box cover using two rivets.

 

Tested out welding nuts to sheet metal this evening to test the method and my ability to do it. When I weld my auxiliary battery mount tomorrow I want it to be removable so I'm going to have threaded holes in the mounts for easy removal and installation. Should work, just need to keep weld spray out of the inside of the nut.

I see I'm a one man band on this build page, no worries, I'll keep it real and add some Bilsteins at some point which tend to bring people running.

 

very very clean rig, keep up the great work!

 

What kind of topper do you have and where did you get it? Thank you for any info.

 

It's a Century High-C. I found it on craigslist in Bellevue ($350) and did my best to color match. It started off as purple which really didn't jive with my look. Turns out the Duplicolor didn't quite match my truck but it is a 2001 so some fading is expected. It has a pop-up side window which is absolutely fantastic and saves me plenty of awkward trips into the back of the truck.

Anyway, I just bought my first welder on Friday, it's a 90amp fluxcore/mig from Harbor Freight ($79.99) and I love it. I'd would have gotten the 170amp but I don't have easy access to a 220v outlet. I've only ever welded with stick and this wire feed concept is fantastic, my beads look like I know what I'm doing. I just tried out the cut and bend method for thick plate (saw it on BoxRocket's build) and it works like a charm. I'll build my skid plate on Monday using the same method, we have a sheet bender at work but it is a little under powered for thick wide bends.

Thanks for the comments.

 

Sweet score, I'm looking for one like it with the windoors you don't see many like it around much less for 350.

 

Mounting Auxiliary Battery

Built and mounted my auxiliary battery today. I wanted to make the mount appear to be stock so I build my mounting pillars with inset threaded nuts so the battery box can easily come on and off. It is a meticulous process but the end product is solid.

I used square tubing for the mounting pillars and first created a cardboard mockup so I could fit and trim and fit and trim using the battery box and a level to get the right measurements. For this spot, one corner of the battery box sits on the body allowing me to first build one pillar and mount it then the second.


Fabricating threaded mounting points is actually fairly easy. I will say you should plan ahead which nuts and bolts you want to use; all I had sitting around in a decent size were self locking nuts so the welder did short work of the plastic. No problem, once the plastic locker caught of fire, I just dug it out with a screw driver. I recommend drilling the hole and welding the nut before you cut out the final square piece: it is easier to work with a bigger sheet of metal then a little 1.5" x 1.5" square of sheet metal when you're trying to weld. Ensure you have a little lip all the way around your top plate and your pillar, it helps get a good weld. Also, as soon as you get your nut welded on, screw in the bolt a few times to ensure a good fit and it also helps to force out any welding debris.


After you've welded the pillar together, spray the inside with a Rustoleum type paint as it is almost impossible to weld within the engine compartment to get a good seal all the way around.


Welding inside the engine compartment is very tedious. I did these mounts separately, completed one and welded it before starting on the second. With the first, once the mount was complete, I bolted it to the battery box and, using a level, lined it up inside the compartment, I then taped everything in place to ensure it wouldn't move during the weld. I then tacked the mount to the body. With a good strong tack, I unbolted and removed the battery box and welded as much of the mount as I could to the body. Be careful when you weld to your fenders, all the plastidip inside the wheel well can catch on fire as mine did in a few spots from the heat. I did not get a full 360 weld but I got enough to hold up to some abuse.
With one welded on I bolted on the battery box and using my mockup measured a mount for the second point. I then fabricated it in the same manner. With both mounts bolted to the box (one also welded to the frame) I tacked the second mount. I then removed the box and finished welding the second mount. Building then one after another and not at the same time and tacking the mounts with the box attached ensured good alignment. Both bolts screw in almost all the way by hand.


Once everything cooled off, I prepped and taped off the area and applied a few coats of black Rustoleum. I placed tape over the threaded holes and once the rest was dry applied some paint around the holes by hand. I think it looks pretty decent even though the battery will cover up my nice paint job.


And here is the finished product. Solid as a rock and bolted down on three sides. I'll wire it up tomorrow with my 500amp solenoid.

 

Drew my initial plan for hot water; it'll use a plate heat exchange and the ability to recirculate the water while the truck is running on the move so there is hot water ready when you stop. Oh, and my diodes are backwards.



In other news, the bumper build starts tonight.

 

The front part of the bumper took way too long this evening. I cut it out as one piece then cut grooves and bent then welded in the seams. Needless to say, that involved two 35 inch grooves and two 35 inch welds, and was tiring.



Second evening's progress:



Welded up the other side of the bumper (top portion at least) and mocked up the mounts, should be able to get everything done tomorrow... should. Third evening's progress.

 

Well, I ran out of time in my two weeks before I'm out of town for work. I got the bumper mostly done and the mounting system done. When I get back I need to do the center and light hoops and the winch plate. I got some scrap pieces from OnlineMetals today when I picked up a couple of ordered sheets which should cover my winch plate for free.
If anyone has a newish winch with synthetic rope and wants to sell it for a low low price, just let me know.

 

I just returned from a work trip so I'll continue the bumper build this week and hope to get it finished before I have to leave for work again mid week. Additionally, I got my heat exchanger and water pump in the mail so connected them just to see what the pump speed was like. I'm impressed; I got a smaller heat exchanger than most because I plan on recirculating the water till I hit the right temperature then using a 3-port diversion valve to switch from the exchanger to the shower/faucet.



Also, with the bumper almost finished, I plan on getting a winch this week as well. I'm definitely getting a synthetic line winch, but I don't really know between a Warn or a Smittybilt which to use. And with the Warn winches, I'd probably choose the M8000-s because it seems to be fairly popular and reliable over other choices.

 

Got back to working on the bumper for a couple of days. Got the bumper almost complete, minus the hoops, but still need to finish the mounts and the winch plate. That'll have to wait for a few weeks while I'm away for work.




And the reason it doesn't look flush is because it is just sitting on some temporary mounts I made so I could hang the bumper to measure various parts.

 

this has all the makings for an awesome build. question about the cs144 upgrade. how did you do the wiring? did you have an adapter plug or splice into the current wiring?