1st gen bilstein 5100s @1.75

X2, didn't see an answer to the question about your tire size. I know this is an old thread, but if you're still watching crazyjeys I'd like to know the specs on both your wheels & tires. Your truck looks great!

 

Just installed the bilstein 5100's from downsouth motorsports on my 01 TRD. end result was the middle setting for 1.5" lift in the front making the truck perfect level. its worth mentioning that i did order new bushings for the top direct from toyota. the old ones were pretty flat and dry rotted. As far as the ride quality, its much smoother than the stock bilsteins w/ 240k miles. I expected it to be stiffer, but not at all. These 5100's are definitely worth the money. very pleased!

 

I have my Billies set at 0 with 3" Eibach coils. So the springs are providing all of the lift.

 

But I also have a 1.5"AAL in the rear of the truck.

 

Here is my truck when I had my Bilsteins on the 2nd setting

 

Is it best to go at 0 setting (lowest notch) I have 881 eibachs going in.

 

I have the bilstein 5100 4-position that I used to replaced a Toytec 2.5" spacer lift and the 5100's are tons better. I went with new stock 595lb rate springs and the ride is much better over the spacer lift and the travel is back. My 5100's are set at 2.5".

 

If you were replying to me, I love it. Been in since 2006 and still going strong. I will need a new leaf pack in the near future, but the AAL was by far the best decision I ever made on my taco.

 

An AAL will probably just be a bandaid for you. I would look in to a new leaf pack

 

I have the HS 3leaf AALs in the rear of my truck, 2.5 maybe 3" of lift and stock brake lines. Been that way for over a year and I've wheeled it hard, no issues.

 

Hopefully soon I'll be posting my results, have all the parts from toy tech and just need to install. Using my stock coils and their 2 inch AAL, planning to set the 5100's at the highest setting (2.5 or 2.75 can't remember) eventually I'll get new leaf packs and coils though

 

Got a link to these "billies"?

 

http://www.autoanything.com/suspension-systems/61A5660A0A0.aspx

 

oh...thats what he meant by billies

 

You won't barely get a degree or two out of caster when lifting, but it will effect camber angle and toe. Caster isn't adjustable on stock spindles or stock UCA's but incorrect toe and camber kill front tires.

 

Caster is adjustable, but not very much. All three are played off each other. You make it sound like camber and toe are the big issue to watch in a lift. They aren't, because they are easier to get within acceptable spec when lifting. Caster on stock UCAs is much more limited, and the average techs are usually lame and just do a toe and go alignment. Or the adjustment cams are seized, and they don't have a clue.

Without decent caster, the truck won't track in a straight line well and require constant steering input at higher speeds. If larger wheels/tires are installed, increasing caster is the first step to avoiding rubbing.

 

Hey you sound like you know what you're talking about throwing around words used in my industry,almost! My family business has been doing alignments for 50+ years and the Old School way. We never used the new Hunter machines, Hunter got most of its numbers from the Old timers I worked with that have aligned vehicles probably longer than you've been on Earth, no offense! Those adjustable cams under your IFS only adjust +- camber and you're rack adjusts toe. Unless you buy adjustable heim joint uca's at 1000+clams you're not getting a caster adjustment. I'm not saying that's your only problem with a lift, Only trying to help, I wouldn't post about what I don't know. I've never used light racing uca's but they have an adjustable caster cam for the spindle. My truck has the normal total chaos uca's but not needed imho the tiny bit of caster they fix wouldn't help too much with drivability. It drove fine locked on king shocks without caster adjustments with correct toe and camber. And that was on 33" tires lifted 3". Never had drivability issues with my lift. The caster only gets pulled in a tiny bit when adjusting toe and camber correctly, our trucks have no adjustment specific to caster.

 

Hey what about the rear? Any lift? also, what size tire and wheels are those?

 

heck yeah! That look good! What setting did you have them on? And what coils?

 

4 years late, but this info is incorrect. The lower cam adjusters absolutely adjust castor. Not a lot, but enough to get the truck in spec with stock UCA’s and minor lift.

Also, with larger tires and higher offset wheels, less castor is needed as it will apply more centering force than a stock wheel and tire setup.

Whenever I have anything aligned I tell the shop, 0* Camber, toe in spec and as much negative castor as they can get with 0* camber. I typically end up at about -1.5* castor and my trucks drive perfect and I don’t have a heavy steering wheel due to excessive castor.