water pump......2.7l tacoma?

That one looks pretty new. They would be steam cleaned if coolant was getting in. It appears that there is soot on the base, so no leak.
Here's a couple links of plug pics:
http://forums.genvibe.com/zerothread?id=32077
http://www.autohausaz.com/html/spark-plugs_spark-plug-wires.html

Now you have one less problem to worry about. The radiator is still suspect. Check it for cold spots. Even if the tanks look clean, the passages inbetween could be plugged. That would reduce your cooling capacity.
10 yo truck with original rad? I think you got your money's worth from it.

 

I understand what you're saying about the radiator, i just don't understand the point of getting a new radiator if it hasn't overheated since i put in the new water pump and fan clutch in....

 

I'm the type of tech who likes to find the problem. If I can indentify it, I can fix it. Any other way is just guessing; it usually bites you in the ass when you do. Shotgunning replacement parts at a problem did not identify the problem. You replaced parts without verifying that they were defective. For all we know, the fan could be bad and the radiator could be plugged.
I have not advocated replacing the radiator without checking it for cold spots. Cold spots=blocked passages=reduced cooling capacity. If you don't verify the condition of the radiator, you're assuming a ten year old radiator is good. If that's good enough for you, then my work here is done.

 

not necessarily, i don't have a thermometer to check it for cold spots. nor do i know how. i just feel like since i've replaced those parts and it hasn't overheated since then i should move on to the ticking that has been an ongoing problem for quite awhile now.

 

Your original post sounded like you had a bad fan clutch to me. If you no longer have an overheating problem with the new fan clutch, then I think you have it fixed.

The alternator light coming on sounds like maybe you need to go back and check the belt tension again. Don't the 2.7s have manually adjusted belt tension?

Top hose should be hot, the lower hose should be cooler, that's the outgoing hose on the radiator. The temp difference just means the radiator is removing heat from the coolant.

As far as the fan noise, how hot is it outside? It could be that the fan clutch has been going out for quite some time, and you have gotten used to the lack of fan noise. Anything over 90 outside and my 04 tacoma 2.4 that I drive at work makes very noticeable fan noise on the freeway. That truck has 124k on it now and runs cool all the time.

 

A non contact thermometer is around $30 from sears. Run the truck up to operating temp and shut it off. Check the temp of the passages on the radiator from the fan side. Check them all. The top should be slightly hotter than the bottom, but excessively so.
Even if it hasn't overheated, that just means that the other parts might have been contributing to the problem. Verify the radiator is good, then you can be confident in climbing the mountain. You'll have a handy new tool as well.

 

joes06, yes i checked the alternator belt the other day, it was somewhat loose. i haven't had the light come on again, but it usually comes on with the a/c on. and i hardly ever use the a/c because the windows are always down. but i will check to see if it comes on soon.

skytower, i will look into getting a non contact thermometer soon and i will check out the radiator, i'll keep ya updated on what goes on.

thanks for the advice!