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Goodbye Axle Wrap Mod

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Old 03-28-2013, 10:23 AM   #221
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 03taco88 View Post
Would an AAL fix the springs back to have an arch and solve axle wrap?
Depends on how flat they are now and what kind of AAL you buy. But any AAL will help relieve some weight from the spring pack and return the arch probably not as good as new but it helps.

Solve...no
Help a little?...Maybe
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Old 03-28-2013, 10:32 AM   #222
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfgang123 View Post
Depends on how flat they are now and what kind of AAL you buy. But any AAL will help relieve some weight from the spring pack and return the arch probably not as good as new but it helps.

Solve...no
Help a little?...Maybe
Good deal might do the 3pack leaf spring before I save up for Dakar's
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Old 03-28-2013, 10:46 AM   #223
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A progress AAL like that would be perfect if you spring for the extra $
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Old 04-10-2013, 10:18 PM   #224
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Picked up my spring clamps from Autozone today, gonna get some washers and install them this weekend. I really hope you guys are right and this gets rid of the f-ing bump! I'll let you guys know the results.
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Old 04-14-2013, 09:02 PM   #225
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Well, completed the install and after driving around yesterday and today....NO MORE BUMP!!!!
Thanks for your help guys!

Installed the 2.5 in wide (Autozone Part Number: 13-1401A) clamps about 4in in front of the axle and torqued them down to 50ft lbs. That did the trick!

I am happy happy happy.

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Old 05-10-2013, 03:20 AM   #226
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Applied two separate Advance Auto discount coupons, one for 20% and another for 30% (total cost came to $60 @today's prices) at two different stores, so I got the under leaf fix axle wrap
fix for the front and the Helwig 550 equivalent for the rear...

First, if you are not hauling heavy loads, you may find the front underleaf fix enough for the wrap and the bump....

Instantly got rid of axle wrap, especially nice not to have the "bump" when first releasing brakes after coming to a complete stop, totally kool!!

The 550 clone I will test in a few days with a huge load of wood..

Impressions, probably the best $60 I sent on the truck so far, tracks better, actually is smoother feeling, especially on freeway, handles uneven bumps better, the whole rear suspension just feels much tighter and smoother...

Recommendation, for $60 it is a cheap fix that works with sagging springs....the axle wrap is very disruptive to the driveline as a whole on these trucks, and the CB, rear universal and leafs take the brunt of the abuse, dang truck rides like new, I swear...and smooth from stopped to full speed floored, no driveline shimmy, no axle wrap thump, drives like it is supposed to....

Update, to OP, I installed with the button in furthest hole, working just fine, will keep an eye on it...
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Old 05-13-2013, 08:28 AM   #227
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I'm looking around locally (Toronto) for a place that has some ubolt kits but can't find any. If any of you know the size of the ubolts maybe I can locate those individually.

I'm dying to fix that axle wrap too!

Anyone in Canada pick up a leaf ubolt kit from any Canadian stores or have a part number for me?
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Old 05-13-2013, 08:29 AM   #228
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amp3d View Post
I'm looking around locally (Toronto) for a place that has some ubolt kits but can't find any. If any of you know the size of the ubolts maybe I can locate those individually.

I'm dying to fix that axle wrap too!

Anyone in Canada pick up a leaf ubolt kit from any Canadian stores or have a part number for me?
Any spring shop will make them to your specs or Cap-it
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Old 05-13-2013, 05:24 PM   #229
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Canadian tire sells u bolts,bar,and nuts at different lengths as hardware. Measure the length you need (height of spring stack) allowing for additional length for nuts and bar.
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Old 05-14-2013, 12:33 PM   #230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coma09 View Post
Canadian tire sells u bolts,bar,and nuts at different lengths as hardware. Measure the length you need (height of spring stack) allowing for additional length for nuts and bar.
I was at CT today but they only had ubolts for trailers, which didn't come with any plates that would be needed for this install. I'll just have to wait until I visit the states and grab some then. Who knew it would be so difficult to find simple u bolts!

What about these? Would these work?
http://www.princessauto.com/pal/en/U...-Kit/2080076.p
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Old 05-14-2013, 01:33 PM   #231
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jandrews View Post
All its resisting is whatever amount of tractive force allows the truck to move. In neutral, an able human being can push one of these trucks by hand. Unless you can bend the crossmember by hand, you really don't have to worry about it. Traction bars don't typically resist great forces, its just in stock form, there's nothing there to resist that force at all. Axle wrap wouldnt be a problem but for the possibility of binding u joints, ring and pinion deflection, and wheel hop. Wheel hop especially can be very damaging to driveline components...its basically like hitting the rear axle with a giant impact hammer. With a traction bar, the wheels either break loose and spin on the ground or the vehicle moves. There's no hop to wreck your gears .
In my experience this statement is wrong--at least the first part anyway. A traction bar has to resist the total rotational force the pinion gear is exerting on the ring gear (less whatever the springs assist with) until the tires break traction.

I had a '92 YJ with 16x35 Boggers on it. It had axle wrap so bad that in deep sand or mud, the pinion would twist up far enough to lock the yokes together and then it would literally twist the driveshaft in half like a wet paper towel. My solution (the wrong one, I've since learned) was to put a traction bar on it. The result with one traction bar was that it tore the rosette weld out of the axle tubing the bar was mounted on and allow the diff housing to rotate on the tube. I had the tube rewelded and put two bars on...and it started ripping the mounts off the tubing. That's a LOT of force twisting the axle housing to cause that sort of mayhem.

Having said that, the force at the forward end of the bar is an up and down force, not a push-pull or twisting force, on the end of a three or four foot lever so I would imagine that the crossmember is probably up to it, especially with those brutal spring packs on the truck in the picture. Which, btw, was the solution I should have used on my YJ...thicker, stouter springs that twisted less. Even a relatively cheap AAL probably would have solved 90% of the problem, but I was young and stupid then and just didn't know better.

FWIW, I definitely like the design of that traction bar though. It looks awesome.
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Old 05-14-2013, 06:21 PM   #232
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Here is another benefit to the axle wrap mod, I went to one of the properties today, it is about a 5 mile dirt and gravel road once you get off the pavement with a lot of washout waves and uphill waves, dips and rocks and whatever, before the mod, it was totally annoying going through the wash wave crap, with the mod, the axle isn't dancing the axle wrap bounce with each hit and release, it actually was a really smooth ride, the rear end felt glued to the surface....side benefits are obvious, parts are going to last mucho longer....
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Old 05-14-2013, 07:12 PM   #233
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taco No Baka View Post
In my experience this statement is wrong--at least the first part anyway. A traction bar has to resist the total rotational force the pinion gear is exerting on the ring gear (less whatever the springs assist with) until the tires break traction.

I had a '92 YJ with 16x35 Boggers on it. It had axle wrap so bad that in deep sand or mud, the pinion would twist up far enough to lock the yokes together and then it would literally twist the driveshaft in half like a wet paper towel. My solution (the wrong one, I've since learned) was to put a traction bar on it. The result with one traction bar was that it tore the rosette weld out of the axle tubing the bar was mounted on and allow the diff housing to rotate on the tube. I had the tube rewelded and put two bars on...and it started ripping the mounts off the tubing. That's a LOT of force twisting the axle housing to cause that sort of mayhem.

Having said that, the force at the forward end of the bar is an up and down force, not a push-pull or twisting force, on the end of a three or four foot lever so I would imagine that the crossmember is probably up to it, especially with those brutal spring packs on the truck in the picture. Which, btw, was the solution I should have used on my YJ...thicker, stouter springs that twisted less. Even a relatively cheap AAL probably would have solved 90% of the problem, but I was young and stupid then and just didn't know better.

FWIW, I definitely like the design of that traction bar though. It looks awesome.
exactly were i was coming from with my argument.
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Old 05-14-2013, 08:55 PM   #234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfgang123 View Post
exactly were i was coming from with my argument.
Right, but then you have to consider this was happening with 35 inch tall by 16 inch wide BOGGERS which generate some monstrous grip, well beyond anything a 32x11.50 or even a 33x12.50 BFG KM2 or Goodyear MT/R is capable of. And it didn't get any better when I put the 4.56 gears in it. I think the final tally by the time I traded the YJ in was 9 driveshafts, two sets of ring and pinions, a yoke, and countless u-joints. Although after I had the traction bars on, the damage slacked off since I used them as a warning sign. Once I tore one traction bar off, I knew it was time to shift from participant to spectator mode before any serious damage was done.

I still agree with JAndrews' conclusion though; your crossmember would be fine. Sure, there's a lot of force twisting the axle, but not only are your springs absorbing some of it, but the traction bar is, in effect, a 3 or 4 foot level attached to the axle. Think of it like a long breaker bar on a stubborn bolt. The amount of force you apply to the end of the bar is far less than what is being applied to the bolt. Now imagine the axle is the bolt and the traction bar is the breaker bar with the end that's attached to the crossmember being where your hand is on the breaker bar. There's a lot less force on the crossmember than there is on the mount on the axle.

If it was a front-to-back force, I might be a bit worried, but since it's a vertical up and down force, in the direction that the crossmember is the strongest, it should be fine. Especially since the mount looked like it had a fairly wide bearing surface on the crossmember, distributing the load over a wider area than just the width of the shackle.

FWIW, I never had the front connection on my traction bars fail. It was always on the axle-side that the carnage occurred.

Edit: Sorry for being off-topic. Just thought what I felt was erroneous information needed to be corrected.
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Old 08-28-2013, 06:22 PM   #235
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Just did this today on my 08 and holy s*** its a new truck no more weird thumps or any odd noises from anywhere wish I would have found this site long ago. I'm sure it's just temporary but has stop the squeaking as well.
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Old 09-01-2013, 09:30 PM   #236
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedoJosh View Post
Ok, so picked up the u-bolt pack yesterday.


Passenger side

So I bought the kit yesterday, installed it yesterday, and test drove it to work today. It's been absolutely awesome in getting rid of that axle-wrap until I get new leaf-springs. Heck, it evens smoothens out my ride too as a added bonus. The BIG question I have is, I installed the U-bolt like SpeedoJosh did. While it may sound like a dumb question, do I need to worry about that bracket hitting the shock? Mine has about 1/3 of a centimeter gap between the bracket and the shock.
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Old 09-02-2013, 03:31 AM   #237
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grinder action on end of flat plate, done..

oh, and yes, it will hit with suspension flex as it stands now...
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Old 09-02-2013, 12:52 PM   #238
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Thanks! No grinder available so i'll get creative. I wasnt comfortable with it that close anyways.
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Old 04-05-2014, 09:55 AM   #239
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Does this system work on two wheel drive as well.
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Old 04-05-2014, 09:58 AM   #240
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Does this system work on two wheel drive as well.
Yep. Worked like a charm on my 2WD. Night and day difference!!!
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