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Installation of a aftermarket keyless entry system

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Old 02-07-2011, 05:06 PM   #1
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Installation of a aftermarket keyless entry system

First generation Tacoma 2002 DoubleCab with power door locks.

This guide should work for most keyless systems, the unit I installed here is the Audiovox AA-925. The reason I used this unit was the simple fact it didn't have a lot of buttons that would not be used. It has lock unlock, and option buttons. Price approximately $60+ form various dealers.

Prior to this install I downloaded the installation instructions for the keyless entry unit and then used my Toyota reference information to basically match the connections on paper. I strongly suggest doing this to identify potential hurdles and streamline installation.

The following sources, images, and installation notes should make your install easier.

Background information sources:
http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew...ngdiagrams.asp navigate to your model and year
http://audiovox2.info/docs/common/AA925/AA925_IM.pdf

Tools and supplies:
Medium sized Phillips and Flat screw drivers
Metric socket or nut driver set with 8,9,& 10 mm
Wire strippers with cutters
Razor knife
Small mirror
Electrical Tape
Zip ties

Optional:
Wire loom
Test light
alligator clip wire tester
Small metric bolts 8, 9, or 10mm approximately 15mm long for possible control/base unit mounting as there are some threaded holes available for mounting behind the steering wheel under the instrument cluster.
Also alternate mounting method: using Double sided self adhesive foam tape or strips.

1. Prep area: remove rocker kick plate, kick panel, lower dash board and center/ashtray console section. Becareful removing the center console/ashtray section, the clips come off the retaners so retrieve them after removing the section.



2. Make ignition harness connections. This is found to the right of the steering column.
Connections here:
12v Constant- White
Ignition 12v- Black/Red



I used wire strippers to section make 2 cut in ths insulation and then the razor knife to carefully trim/shave the section for removal. Then a small used pic or pointed probe to make a hole to insert the wire to be connected. I then inserted the stripped (3/4") new wire through, split it into two sections and wrapped around the vehicle wire and then around the new wire. See image below.

Then I wrap the two with tape and use a zip tie to lock the connection.
See ignition connection below.

Parking light connection is made to a green wire located on a 12 pin harness plug found on the back of the fuse box. There several plugs and green wires on the back of the fuse box. The one needed is located near the bottom of the fuse panel rear. The best way to find it is using a mirror. Facing the panel, it is located in the lower right corner nestled just inside of a line of harnesses connected on the outer perimeter of the panel. The connector is pictured below.
This harness is best accessed by removing the clip that holds the 22 pin harness to the front of the fuse panel and some of the factory tape to clear the area and allow room to make the connection.
Connections here:
Parking light- Green

Here's the 22 pin harness and clip removed.
Connections here:
Lock- Gray
Unlock- Purple
Door trigger- Green



Ground. Make sure you get a good ground. My first location did not and the unit did not function. Here are two locations:
This on the interior sheet metal wall, best observed with a mirror

or the kick panel retaining bracket.


Led light: This is not the most visible location and found the steering wheel blocks its visibility. Still, this approach uses the plank panel.


Not a lot of connections. I did not post my final base unit mounting because it may change, but see my notes above on this as there are several options.

I also had a lot of unused wires from the base unit I elected to cut down to 6" and tape off if needed later.

The unit installed had a valet switch I elected to secure without mounting because I do not need it and didn't want to drill a hole for it at this point..

My finished fuctions are basic; lock/unlock with parking light confirmation. I may add a third function at some point such as windows up.

Overall the install should take about 2 hours and is fairly easy.
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Old 02-08-2011, 01:07 AM   #2
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nice detail turp, thanks for the pics!
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Old 02-08-2011, 05:25 AM   #3
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There is also another location you can use which is behind the radio/heater controls. I used to be a installer at a local shop for many years and Toyotas were always my favorite vehicles to do alarms in because they were so easy. Everything you need aside from doorlocks and the door pin switch is there you just run those wires up, Power Acc Ground and the parking lights can all be accessed from the stereo and the alarm brain can all be stuffed up beside the airbag unit behind the glove box. The door locks are a negative feed so no relays are required the only trick is to find the 2 wires.
Im not trying hijack your thread Turp, you did a great job, just giving another location for the alarm brain.
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Old 02-08-2011, 10:17 AM   #4
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Thanks for the great write-up!
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Old 02-08-2011, 10:45 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saweetlou View Post
There is also another location you can use which is behind the radio/heater controls. I used to be a installer at a local shop for many years and Toyotas were always my favorite vehicles to do alarms in because they were so easy. Everything you need aside from doorlocks and the door pin switch is there you just run those wires up, Power Acc Ground and the parking lights can all be accessed from the stereo and the alarm brain can all be stuffed up beside the airbag unit behind the glove box. The door locks are a negative feed so no relays are required the only trick is to find the 2 wires.
Im not trying hijack your thread Turp, you did a great job, just giving another location for the alarm brain.
Thanks for the input.

I chose the method in the thread because of the available information and the connections using three easily accessiable harnesses. With the exception of the LED, the whole install can be done and mounted in the small area under the and behind the steering wheel between the fuse panel and steering column. I plan to move my base unit to that area and use metric bolts intstead of the foam adhesive.

I added this thread because there wasn't any definative "here it is" and the pre-2003 factory Tacoma keyless entry option is pretty much non-existant, expensive(if found), and workable OEM cross applicatications questionable.
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Old 02-09-2011, 05:07 AM   #6
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I would say that at least 95% of the alarm/keyless entry systems are placed in the same location that you have chosen that I have seen over the years especially when the wires for the door locks are in the drivers kick panel, it just makes sense. For my location 90% of the time I would of been installing a new stereo at the same time so it was more convenient for me to tap into the radio wires and just like you I would zip tie my taped connections. Some would argue that all connections should be soldered, but who has time for that lol.
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Old 02-09-2011, 05:48 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saweetlou View Post
Some would argue that all connections should be soldered, but who has time for that lol.

"Back in the day" (Alpine tape deck w/ HALTECH Heads no internal amps, Alphasonic amps and separate component speakers) before component speakers were in "Blue Collar vehicles and aftermarket was the only way to get a decent sound, I did solder connections and run the risk of melting interior. However, I never lost a nonsoldered connection, so the soldering iron/gun stays at the work bench.


Excuse the flashback, it was just the last time I remember a soldering iron used in the car/truck.
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Old 02-11-2011, 06:15 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StAndrew View Post

I'm glad I could contribute. I have already and likely will gain far more myself. Thanks.
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Old 02-12-2011, 12:25 PM   #10
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how would someone add a remote starter too this? seeing how we have an installer replying in this thread!
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Old 02-12-2011, 02:18 PM   #11
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I have the Audiovox remote start/alarm system. Its not too hard to install (see above) though I think it only required one wire to be routed through the firewall (to the hood pin).

You can find them for ~$50 on ebay. Any local audio shop would be the best place if you want an installation. It shouldnt cost more than $50 to install (if they ask for more, go somewhere else).
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Old 02-12-2011, 07:03 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StAndrew View Post
I have the Audiovox remote start/alarm system. Its not too hard to install (see above) though I think it only required one wire to be routed through the firewall (to the hood pin).

You can find them for ~$50 on ebay. Any local audio shop would be the best place if you want an installation. It shouldnt cost more than $50 to install (if they ask for more, go somewhere else).
i have the keyless entry one, it came in this week. can i add the starter too the AV AA-925?
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Old 02-12-2011, 08:01 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlh178 View Post
i have the keyless entry one, it came in this week. can i add the starter too the AV AA-925?
According to the directions, yes. It has several accesory channels for adding options and it mention remote start. Of course it will need an external relay but I don't know what connections are needed.
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Old 02-19-2011, 04:10 PM   #14
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turp, do i use the red/black for the door trigger or do i use the brown{gm Type} for the door trigger. in your pic, it looks like its a brown wire? thanks for your time!
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Old 01-27-2013, 01:22 PM   #15
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So I want to do this but can't find this model and don't know what to use now.
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Old 11-18-2013, 11:21 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turp View Post
First generation Tacoma 2002 DoubleCab with power door locks.

Keyless unit installed: Audiovox AA-925. The reason I used this unit was the simple fact it didn't have a lot of buttons that would not be used. It has lock unlock, and option buttons.

Price approximately $23 from Amazon.

The following sources, images, and installation notes should make your install easier.

Background information sources:
http://ncttora.com/fsm/2003/Wiring_M...mci/041dlc.pdf
http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew...ngdiagrams.asp
http://audiovox2.info/docs/common/AA925/AA925_IM.pdf

Tools and supplies:
Medium sized Phillips and Flat screw drivers
Metric socket or nut driver set with 8,9,& 10 mm
Wire strippers with cutters
Razor knife
Small mirror
Electrical Tape
Zip ties

Optional:
Wire loom
Test light
alligator clip wire tester
Small metric bolts 8, 9, or 10mm approximately 15mm long for possible control/base unit mounting as there are some threaded holes available for mounting behind the steering wheel under the instrument cluster.
Also alternate mounting method: using Double sided self adhesive foam tape or strips.

1. Prep area: remove rocker kick plate, kick panel, lower dash board and center/ashtray console section. Becareful removing the center console/ashtray section, the clips come off the retaners so retrieve them after removing the section.



2. Make ignition harness connections. This is found to the right of the steering column.
Connections here:
12v Constant- White
Ignition 12v- Black/Red



I used wire strippers to section make 2 cut in ths insulation and then the razor knife to carefully trim/shave the section for removal. Then a small used pic or pointed probe to make a hole to insert the wire to be connected. I then inserted the stripped (3/4") new wire through, split it into two sections and wrapped around the vehicle wire and then around the new wire. See image below.

Then I wrap the two with tape and use a zip tie to lock the connection.
See ignition connection below.

Parking light connection is made to a green wire located on a 12 pin harness plug found on the back of the fuse box. There several plugs and green wires on the back of the fuse box. The one needed is located near the bottom of the fuse panel rear. The best way to find it is using a mirror. Facing the panel, it is located in the lower right corner nestled just inside of a line of harnesses connected on the outer perimeter of the panel. The connector is pictured below.
This harness is best accessed by removing the clip that holds the 22 pin harness to the front of the fuse panel and some of the factory tape to clear the area and allow room to make the connection.
Connections here:
Parking light- Green

Here's the 22 pin harness and clip removed.
Connections here:
Lock- Gray
Unlock- Purple
Door trigger- Green



Ground. Make sure you get a good ground. My first location did not and the unit did not function. Here are two locations:
This on the interior sheet metal wall, best observed with a mirror

or the kick panel retaining bracket.


Led light: This is not the most visible location and found the steering wheel blocks its visibility. Still, this approach uses the plank panel.


Not a lot of connections. I did not post my final base unit mounting because it may change, but see my notes above on this as there are several options.

I also had a lot of unused wires from the base unit I elected to cut down to 6" and tape off if needed later.

The unit installed had a valet switch I elected to secure without mounting because I do not need it and didn't want to drill a hole for it at this point..

My finished fuctions are basic; lock/unlock with parking light confirmation. I may add a third function at some point such as windows up.

Overall the install should take about 2 hours and is fairly easy.







Just wondering Will this install be the same with other brand? I can't find this model for cheap anymore saw a different brand on amazon just lock and unlock for $25.
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Old 11-18-2013, 12:15 PM   #18
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If I can make a suggestion. If needed for power,there are extra fuses in the fuse block for accessories. Especially stereos. Tapping into the harness is the easy way out and I have had to clean up so may harnesses on vehicles because people hack into them on installs. A clean install will use the extra fuse ports without cutting into a harness.
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Old 11-18-2013, 03:15 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by offrdmania View Post
If I can make a suggestion. If needed for power,there are extra fuses in the fuse block for accessories. Especially stereos. Tapping into the harness is the easy way out and I have had to clean up so may harnesses on vehicles because people hack into them on installs. A clean install will use the extra fuse ports without cutting into a harness.
I agree it would be cleaner to avoid harness taps, but I breached that territory when I starting tapping connections for the door controls, lights, and other connections.

The "hacking" in this install was conducted very carefully and as cleanly as possible while taking pictures because there was no guide for installing keyless in these trucks
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Old 11-18-2013, 03:33 PM   #20
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Just a follow-up about whether or not other units could be installed using this guide.

This install should work with most any keyless system of your choosing.

Prior to this install I downloaded the installation instructions for the keyless entry unit and then used my Toyota reference information to basically match the connections on paper. I strongly suggest doing this.
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