First gen carrier bearing replacement.

First off, sorry for no pics, I was just more intrested in getting it done.

Start off by chocking the front wheel. Jack up rear of truck, and put trans in neutral.

Crawl under the truck, and mark the flanges where the driveshaft lines up.

Take two 14MM wrenches, and spin off the nuts/bolts that hold the shaft to the flange by the bearing. This is where having the rear up, helps out. You can spin the tire to gain access to the other two bolts.

Once the shaft is loose on the bearing side, lay off to the side.(Personal choice, Chiltons says to remove the shaft, but its not neccessary).

Holding the carrier bearing in, is a flange. Theres a 24MM nut(IIRC) thats peened over. Mine wasnt THAT bad to get off, just used my electric dewalt impact gun and it came right off.

Theres two 14MM bolts holding the bearing up to the truck itself; again used my dewalt to zip them out.

BE careful, theres a washer under that 24mm nut you just removed. Lay both the nut and washer off to the side(magnetic dish works great)

Heres where it can get tricky; Chiltons says to use a puller, and if you dont have one, you can just tap the bearing off. Mine was bad enough, where it practically fell off. Again, becareful, theres a thin washer in there also you will need to reinstall.

By this point, you will have everything dissasembled. Clean everything, and check for anything abnormal.

Put a light coat of grease on the shaft where the bearing will slide onto, then reinstall the shaft into the new bearing, with the square hole down. I Loosely put the bolts back into the bearing, that holds it up to the truck.

Grease the splines, then put the thin washer over the splines untill it stops.

Slide the flange on,washer,then the 24MM nut.

Chiltons says to torque nut initally to 134 FT LBS, back off one turn then final torque to 60 FT Lbs. I had my dad hold a pipe wrench on the shaft while I torqued the nut.

Find the cutout in the shaft, then peen the brass nut over so it cant back off.

Line your marks back up on the shaft, to the flange then tighen the bolts down, then tighten up the bolts holding the bearing to the truck.

Check over all your bolts, and you should be good.

While your under there, grease all the zirks, and if you dont already have one, get a hypedermic needle, and grease the hole in the bottom of the new bearing you just installed.

Should take around an hour to do.

 

what are the signs of a bad CB? I have a pulsating vibe between 33-40 mph and it will vibe on the highway when i try to climb a hill in 5th and lose some RPMs but when i downshift it goes away. When i tighten the two bolts holding the CB up to the frame, it will decrease significantly (until it loosens up again) so it leads me to believe its something in the driveshaft.

 

Mine was vibrating HARD while braking.. Didnt do it all the time. Started to vibe while driving around 30-40, and again at 50-60mph. Get under and push up and pull down on the driveshaft by the bearing, should be around 1/8" play..Mine was around an inch or so, each way. Listen for any sounds also.

If you have vibes while driving, check your U-joints also. May just need some grease.

 

yea mine also vibrates hard while i brake hard, more so at higher speeds. So you're saying to just push up towards the truck and down towards the ground directly to the right or left of the bearing/bracket to determine play?

thanks again

 

I checked mine a little bit ago by pulling and pushing like you said. I tightened the bolts on the CB bracket yesterday as much as i could so i know there isn't any play within the actual driveshaft being able to move, but it moved with the rubber hold area about 1/2" maybe more less idk. But it was def more than 1/8"

 

I'm interested in some pics if possible please.

I have a growling that starts around 40 mph, and again more intense at 55-65mph. Steering wheel doesn't really shake, and there is no vibrations when braking.

3'' Suspension on my taco.

 

I dont have any pics, trucks been back together for days now.

As to check it, just get as close to the bearing on either side as you can, and push up and pull down on the shaft..A little play is normal

 

Thanks for the write-up, Joe! Much appreciated and this is making this replacement pretty easy!

Only one thing I would add (as this had me stumped for a few minutes, having never disassembled a driveshaft before) is between these two steps:

There's a little lip that is set into the flange on the forward side of the driveshaft. Removing the four bolts is necessary, but then you need to separate the rear piece of the driveshaft from the front. I did this by alternating hits on both sides of the double cardon joint with a rubber mallet until it worked it's way loose. The lip is about 1/16"-1/8" tall. Not too big, but just enough to keep it centered and in place, even without the bolts.