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Rear main seal leak. :(

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Old 03-07-2011, 02:36 AM   #2
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from toyota FSM:

4. REPLACE CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL
HINT:
There are 2 methods ((a) and (b)) to replace the oil seal.
(a) If rear oil seal retainer is removed from cylinder block:
(1) Using a screwdriver and a hammer, tap out the oil
seal.
(2) Using SST and a hammer, tap in a new oil seal until
its surface is flush with the oil seal retainer edge.
SST 09223–15030, 09950–70010 (09951–07150)
(3) Apply MP grease to the oil seal lip.
(b) If rear oil seal retainer is installed to cylinder block:
(1) Using a knife, cut off the oil seal lip.
(2) Using a screwdriver, pry out the oil seal.
NOTICE:
Be careful not to damage the crankshaft. Tape the screwdriver
tip.
(3) Apply MP grease to a new oil seal lip.
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Old 03-07-2011, 06:28 PM   #3
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edited because
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Old 03-07-2011, 08:59 PM   #4
Mob parking lots.
ryanjboutin is one of the sharper tools in the shedryanjboutin is one of the sharper tools in the shedryanjboutin is one of the sharper tools in the shedryanjboutin is one of the sharper tools in the shedryanjboutin is one of the sharper tools in the shedryanjboutin is one of the sharper tools in the shedryanjboutin is one of the sharper tools in the shedryanjboutin is one of the sharper tools in the shedryanjboutin is one of the sharper tools in the shedryanjboutin is one of the sharper tools in the shedryanjboutin is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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I vote 5-speed.
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Old 03-11-2011, 09:04 PM   #6
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its not cost effective just for a rear main seal tbh. now if that trans breaks, i'd do it for sure. you need a flywheel, bell housing, clutch slave cylinder, clutch pedal assembly, you'd have to cut a hole in your cab, figure out wtf to do with the column shift.. its just a list of bullshit
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Old 03-12-2011, 02:10 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dmonkey View Post
its not cost effective just for a rear main seal tbh. now if that trans breaks, i'd do it for sure. you need a flywheel, bell housing, clutch slave cylinder, clutch pedal assembly, you'd have to cut a hole in your cab, figure out wtf to do with the column shift.. its just a list of bullshit
But the gasket is like 15 bucks right? Just gotta unbolt the tranny pull it apart a little and pull out the gasket and install the new one.
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Old 03-12-2011, 02:18 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SRQ TACO View Post
But the gasket is like 15 bucks right? Just gotta unbolt the tranny pull it apart a little and pull out the gasket and install the new one.
showing 18.99 at autozone which is a felpro rear seal as well as the gasket for the rear seal housing.

well its a little more involved then that unfortunately. You have pull the trans and remove the flexplate (the flywheel of an automatic). This will reveal the RMS and it's housing.

Out of the 2 available options, i would remove the housing so as not to damage the crank, an 18.99 job could turn into a totalled engine job real fast if you fubar the crank
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Old 03-28-2011, 05:50 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dmonkey View Post
showing 18.99 at autozone which is a felpro rear seal as well as the gasket for the rear seal housing.

well its a little more involved then that unfortunately. You have pull the trans and remove the flexplate (the flywheel of an automatic). This will reveal the RMS and it's housing.

Out of the 2 available options, i would remove the housing so as not to damage the crank, an 18.99 job could turn into a totalled engine job real fast if you fubar the crank
True. Ok well atleast the parts are cheap. Should I drain the transmission when I'm under there aswell?
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Old 05-19-2011, 09:14 AM   #10
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Note to you guys I recently purchased Bars Rear main seal leak stop and have been waiting 2 months (2000 Miles) for the engine to get a quart low (its only dropped a 1/4 of a quart in two months) so I think I have a very very tiny leak and my dads mechanic said this stuff should stop it if its that small of a leak.

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Old 05-19-2011, 09:21 AM   #12
braaap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SRQ TACO View Post
Also my last oil changes were done with different oils. Toyota used mobile and I used Pennzoil. The truck has always had Castrol GTX in it its whole life. Should I go back to the Castrol and add that quart of bars?
you can switch back to castrol but it really shouldn't matter.
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