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Boot Slide mod. No more blowing cv boots.

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Old 01-17-2012, 07:41 AM   #101
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To anyone doing this mod-

USE SEALANT! It will absolutely leak, crack, slip, slide and possibly bind and eventually prematurely fail the cv axle if not used! Warning!
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Old 01-17-2012, 03:59 PM   #102
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You're kidding right?
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Old 02-23-2012, 03:19 PM   #103
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wouldnt it just be easier to get a drop bracket??? Even though you have a fix for the boot, that much of an angle will wear your axle out faster wouldnt it?
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Old 02-23-2012, 07:16 PM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve04dblcab View Post
wouldnt it just be easier to get a drop bracket??? Even though you have a fix for the boot, that much of an angle will wear your axle out faster wouldnt it?
drop brackets are gheey
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Old 02-23-2012, 07:23 PM   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VirginiaBound View Post
To anyone doing this mod-

USE SEALANT! It will absolutely leak, crack, slip, slide and possibly bind and eventually prematurely fail the cv axle if not used! Warning!
Meh, not really. They're not sealed from factory. I did use a bead of RTV on mine though. Bout 1000 miles now, some good hard wheeling, and no problems to speak of.

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Originally Posted by steve04dblcab View Post
wouldnt it just be easier to get a drop bracket??? Even though you have a fix for the boot, that much of an angle will wear your axle out faster wouldnt it?
Drop brackets kill clearance. The increased angle of the CV axle is not a problem - the suspension stops travel before the factory CV axles bind.
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Old 05-27-2012, 04:49 PM   #106
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How much lift do you have if you are ripping CV boots?
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Old 08-19-2012, 03:36 PM   #107
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Just my experience...

I have the eibach 3" springs with a 1.5 or 2" aal in the rear with 5100's all around and the diff drop kit installed. Not to long after doing all that I had a complete failure of one of my boots and the other was absolutely headed down that road. I replaced the one that was torn and took both inner clamps off and slide the boots down about 0.75-1" and then used basic hose clamps. I know its pretty ghetto but I'll be honest; 20k miles later I haven't had to replace another boot so for me this fix seems like a must. just hose clamps and nothing else and I haven't leaked a bit of fluid nor have the boots moved...
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Old 08-19-2012, 08:15 PM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twfsa View Post
How much lift do you have if you are ripping CV boots?
3'' usually. 2.5'' is supposed to be the most you can get without them hurting.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TeamRooR View Post
Just my experience...

I have the eibach 3" springs with a 1.5 or 2" aal in the rear with 5100's all around and the diff drop kit installed. Not to long after doing all that I had a complete failure of one of my boots and the other was absolutely headed down that road. I replaced the one that was torn and took both inner clamps off and slide the boots down about 0.75-1" and then used basic hose clamps. I know its pretty ghetto but I'll be honest; 20k miles later I haven't had to replace another boot so for me this fix seems like a must. just hose clamps and nothing else and I haven't leaked a bit of fluid nor have the boots moved...
Me too! Well i tore one finally in the roll over..but whatever.

its a pain to do IMO but a worthy Mod!
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Old 09-02-2012, 06:42 PM   #109
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Hey yo guise!

Does anyone know where to buy thin hose clamps? The ones a home depot and such are too wide to fit!

TIA!
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Old 12-04-2012, 11:52 PM   #112
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bahaha so after 10 years of sealant debate i my diff drop question is finally answered thankkk gooooodddddd.

virginia bound " you ma bro?" had me in tears man
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Old 12-28-2012, 01:06 AM   #113
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Both my boots were ripped since before I bought the truck...when I replace the axles I'll do this.
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Old 03-12-2013, 09:59 PM   #114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeamRooR View Post
Just my experience...

I have the eibach 3" springs with a 1.5 or 2" aal in the rear with 5100's all around and the diff drop kit installed. Not to long after doing all that I had a complete failure of one of my boots and the other was absolutely headed down that road. I replaced the one that was torn and took both inner clamps off and slide the boots down about 0.75-1" and then used basic hose clamps. I know its pretty ghetto but I'll be honest; 20k miles later I haven't had to replace another boot so for me this fix seems like a must. just hose clamps and nothing else and I haven't leaked a bit of fluid nor have the boots moved...
Yoy have any photo's?
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Old 03-22-2013, 12:59 PM   #115
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I saw this at the autoparts store the other day and it says it will work for a Tacoma. Anyone had any experience with this?
Dorman quick boot 614-632.
http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-11984-614-632.aspx

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Old 04-19-2013, 05:32 AM   #117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jr97tacoma
my shaft doesnt work without lube...


Quote:
Originally Posted by jr97tacoma
I lube my shaft every night...

Quote:
Originally Posted by VirginiaBound View Post
Is there something you're trying to tell us?
Well since most here seem young in years, Id say they are talking about self love


I would use the sealant myself. Clean the shaft and apply a small amount it will have some grip IMHO.
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Old 04-21-2013, 11:15 PM   #118
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Talking

i replaced the inner boot of the driver side about 2 months ago, got the universal boot from oreileys for 30 bucks. cut off the bigger side of the torn boot and slide it back into it sitting slot and slide the universal boot over and clamp the new boot over right after the grease had been filled. had been doing some lightly off road and been to Iron Lake twice and back with no sign of troubles. the universal boot is softer more flexibility and let see how long it lasts. 02 Taco 3" Eibach coil spring with 5100 bilstein shocks and a pack of rear lift spring (aal) from tough country. run on 33X12.5X15 Toyo M/T 5.29 Yukon Gears. one of the smoothest set up i have try so far.
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Old 07-12-2013, 12:58 PM   #119
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I did this too, when I replaced both axles last month. Then I drove down the highway from Alaska to the lower 48. No problems.

I used the "collar" part of the old worn out boot, which I cut from the old axle, and slipped on the new axle. Then I used a nifty Clamptite tool, which allows me to make a helluva good clamp with minimal fuss using wire. Clean, clean, clean.

Now, how to get the new grease-filled boot over the top of the obstacle I just clamped on the axle?

A spoon...

Yep. A normal kitchen spoon. I inserted the spoon underneath the NEW boot (where all the grease is), turned it a few degrees to engage the shape of the spoon, and with the help of a pair of piers on the handle of the spoon, pulled, cussed, pulled some more, cussed some more and slowly, carefully, while pulling the spoon, worked the new boot over the top of the old collar. Presto! got it! Then I used my Clamptite tool again to fashion an all-too-slick wire clamp over the top of the new boot. No leaking, no slipping.

If you've not heard of a clamptite tool, you're going to freak when you see it. It does ONE THING really, really well.
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Old 07-12-2013, 08:06 PM   #120
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I'm a newbie, but whatever...how about wrapping some of that badass black gorilla tape around the area where yer gonna put the hose clamp? Then the damn thing won't cut into the rubber in the first place. I'm doing this mod tomorrow on some brand new CV's and you all have had me laughing. This forum rocks....
The rubber DOES tend to slide up the shaft if it's too greasy though....
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