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Grinding noise?

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by 45acp, Jul 7, 2011.

  1. Jul 7, 2011 at 9:27 PM
    #1
    45acp

    45acp [OP] Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    There's a constant light grinding/nails-on-a-chalkboard sound while I'm driving. Not sure where it's coming from since it only happens while the truck is in motion.
    I may or may not have driven through a lot of mud a few days ago, but I washed it really well and the noise has not ceased. So I'm not sure where it's coming from and I thought I'd get some opinions before I go tearing the brakes apart...
     
  2. Jul 7, 2011 at 9:31 PM
    #2
    stevenstaco

    stevenstaco B A N N E D

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    maybe its from driving thru rivers :eek:[​IMG]
     
  3. Jul 7, 2011 at 9:36 PM
    #3
    Digiratus

    Digiratus Adventurer

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    Jack up one corner at a time and spin the wheel. That'll narrow it down.
     
  4. Jul 7, 2011 at 9:43 PM
    #4
    Tacomanator

    Tacomanator Well-Known Member

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    Heat shield scraping your drive shaft.
     
  5. Jul 9, 2011 at 8:59 AM
    #5
    Youngota

    Youngota Member

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    hey i had a problem just like that. it was rotational and loud when you first take off. It started about six months after i got my lift. At first i thought it was my carrier bearing but then took it to the local drive train shop. 110 bucks later everything was good. They extended the drive shaft 3 inches and cleaned out the U joints and something about grinding down something with the joints to make it smoother. also dont go to 4wheelparts shops to get work done on your truck at least the one in Colorado Springs. They charge way to much
     
  6. Jul 9, 2011 at 9:17 AM
    #6
    OffroadToy

    OffroadToy old, forgetful, and decomposing

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    How much did you lift your truck and how did they extend the drive shaft 3 inches?
     
  7. Jul 9, 2011 at 5:15 PM
    #7
    45acp

    45acp [OP] Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    Thanks for the help guys. The above technique found the problem. It is most definitely the front passenger brake caliper area.
     
  8. Jul 9, 2011 at 5:22 PM
    #8
    RideFast

    RideFast on the flats.

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    ...
    I had the same problem in the passenger brake caliper area, not sure what it was but it only happened at highway speeds from what I can remember.
     
  9. Jul 9, 2011 at 5:45 PM
    #9
    capetaco12

    capetaco12 .<>./

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    The caliper / front brakes and rotors are the easiest thing in the world to change.
     
  10. Jul 9, 2011 at 6:59 PM
    #10
    45acp

    45acp [OP] Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    Well I just finished cleaning the dirt out of the brakes and sprayed the shit out of them with some brake cleaner but it's still doing the same thing.:confused: Forgot to mention that the noise is louder when I'm braking.

    Call me stupid, but how much is supposed to be left of the pads until they need changing? I've never changed them and a guy at a shop a few months back glanced at them and said it looked like I had around 50% left. Hell my uncle didn't change the original brake pads on his taco until 195k miles.
     
  11. Jul 9, 2011 at 7:07 PM
    #11
    MapleMoose

    MapleMoose Drunk Canadian

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    Your caliper might be seizing. If not than your pads or rotors are worn out. When you say it gets louder when you brake, sounds like your pads are done. Check your rotors and see if they have significant scratches, then check your pads for scratches or chips.

    I had a similar problem when i caliper seized. When i jacked it up, the wheel had a hard time spinning.

    **Generally, you change your pads when it gets 1/8" thickness
     
  12. Jul 9, 2011 at 7:14 PM
    #12
    capetaco12

    capetaco12 .<>./

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    ^ what he said you could have one pad that is fubar and it could have worn down in a month if the capiper seized. IF you do decide to replace them your self i would recomend buying a new caliper just in case you can always return it.
     
  13. Jul 9, 2011 at 7:17 PM
    #13
    45acp

    45acp [OP] Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    1/8" is about where it's at right now. The rotors kinda look like shit. Scratches and looks like some divits from rocks or something. Should I change the pads first and see what happens, or change out the rotors too while I'm at it?
     
  14. Jul 9, 2011 at 7:19 PM
    #14
    MapleMoose

    MapleMoose Drunk Canadian

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    You might as well change the rotors while your down there. Bad rotors can cause your pads to wear out faster. Since your saying you rotors look like shit, i would change the rotors. Rotors are cheap too!
     
  15. Jul 9, 2011 at 10:40 PM
    #15
    StampedePasser

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    Rotors are cheap, in stock, and easy to replace. If they have not been changed in 195k+ miles, I would for sure replace them. Any new pads on the old rotors will where down fast. The scratches in the rotor and the screetching are probably the backing plate of the pads rubbing.
     
  16. Jul 10, 2011 at 6:34 PM
    #16
    45acp

    45acp [OP] Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    How do I tell if the caliper is seizing?

    And if it is, is there a way to clean it or does it have to be replaced?
     
  17. Jul 10, 2011 at 7:38 PM
    #17
    MapleMoose

    MapleMoose Drunk Canadian

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    If the caliper is seizing, the wheel will not spin freely. Compare both wheels, if they both spin relativity the same then its probly not seized. If its seized there isnt much you can do but replace. And make sure you replace both calipers.
     
  18. Jul 10, 2011 at 9:00 PM
    #18
    45acp

    45acp [OP] Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    Well that's good to hear, the wheels spin with little effort. I think I'm going to go with the Centric rotors and pads from Wheelers.:D
     
  19. Jul 10, 2011 at 9:08 PM
    #19
    capetaco12

    capetaco12 .<>./

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    IF both your pads have a similar amount of meat left on them:cool: You probably wont need a caliper.
    IF not... some frozen caliper spin just peachy. Take a C clamp and the old pads to push the caliper pistons back in, If it doesnt budge then this means that it is FUBAR. Keep in mind that the pistons dont move to easily to begin with. IMO i would buy a caliper just in case if you dont need it return it. Cuz if you need it you wont be able to throw the old one on to drive to the store.
     
  20. Jul 11, 2011 at 11:31 AM
    #20
    MowTaco

    MowTaco Well-Known Member

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    I just had the same thing happen to me, all it was was the noise maker on the pad that tells you it's time to change. It was hitting even without the brakes being applied. I couldn't get a picture of it but the very corner of it was rubbing on some rust that's around the outside of the rotor. I just got the new pads in the mail and am waiting for some shop time to get them put in.
     

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