cv boot

Soooo question... stupid question that I'm pretty sure I know the answer to... How bad is a torn cv boot? why is it bad? and can somebody point me in the way of a cv replacement writeup for a 99 or similar truck with manual locking hubs? Because search isn't helping much and the inside boot is torn all the way around. On the plus side... I'm picking up a diff drop and some eibachs to go with the 5100's on tuesday

 

it means you will have no cv axle due to friction with no lubrication, and no 4x4 within hours I'd think

 

so the boot holds gear oil or what?

 

it holds grease, i'm trying to find out what kinda of grease right now for myself.
they are packed full of it.

 

Well, grease actually for lubing the CV joints, You've got a somewhat narrow window of opportunity to R&R the boot without suffering any permanent damage, don't engage your 4x mode & replace CV boot ASAP..

 

whats the thing on the stock UCAs? i thought those were boots? like on the under part of the stock uca where the uniball would go on an aftermarket arm because i thought those tear too?

 

OOPS DISREGARD
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Your talking about those accordian boots for the rack & pinion steering I think, yeah they tear sometimes...

I read your post wrong, you mean those little grease boots for the ball joints ?

 

I just had a torn CV boot fixed recently, drove with a torn boot for at least a couple of weeks.
My mechanic just installed a whole shaft kit.
He says as long as he's in there it's easier just to replace the whole thing.
Also eliminates the risk of putting a new boot over potentially damaged goods.

 

I think that's the upper ball joint.

Well then can somebody point me in the direction of a writeup on a cv replacement? Lord only knows how long we've been wheeling with that torn....

edit: jack is tasty

 

sorry to thread jack OP, but yeah doug that, i looked under my UCA and its ripping like kinda coming out, do i need new UCAs? what would happen if it didnt replace it?

 

sooner or later, they'll dry out, get noisy,get stiff & finally....they'll snap

 

Because I was too lazy to take on that project, I drove mine like that for a few years. Periodically I would climb under the truck and put grease in it. I think the book is as important for keeping dirt and grime out as it is for keeping grease in. Never had a problem though.

 

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/technical-chat/21192-how-change-cv-axle-01-04-add-tacoma.html

See if this works

 

thanks facemob, I saw that is that the same process for the 99 manual locking hubs?

 

not sure about that, didnt notice, sorry. im sure its a bit different.......... ?

 

Probably going to rip your boots again after putting in the 5100s and eibachs. From what I've seen, many people with the eibachs and 5100s with the stock bumper tear their cv boots before the springs settle in some. I think you should leave the cv axle with the torn boot in for awhile after installing the eibachs so the springs can settle in and you don't have to replace a cv axle again pretty quickly. I drove around for a few months with both cv axles having torn cv boots with no problems.

 

If this is correct (Eibachs settling) this might not be a bad idea & do a diff drop to straighten the CV angle a little...

 

sorry for thread jacking but im thinking of going with eibachs and 5100's.


if i was to put on some long travel cv boots or do they cv boot mod and put a diff drop would i be spared from the boots being ripped when i lift my truck?

 

Well it'll reduce the incidents of boot tears & they'll last longer, but you're not going to be "spared" You just won't be changing them as often, also depends how much wheeling you do..

 

good point... so has anyone done that cv boot mod?