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Old 08-22-2013, 04:17 PM   #1941
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Originally Posted by Dirty Pool View Post
I'm , that is an inner and IMO it probably tore because it was slid to far combined with to much lift. A bunch of folks have had that happen. Zero failures when an internal stop is used. You got to re-boot now anyway, try it.
I've blown 5 boots, one was an outer. trying to find the pic, but I cant go through my entire gallery since I'm a work

I cycled the front after I slid it down to check for slippage and to check if I slid it down too far; it was fine, slid it less than a half inch to get the boot out of the way

But it was already pretty worn, was kinda just a matter of time.

I'm gonna try the internal stop the next time I blow a boot. ended up swapping the entire CV because of diff seal problems

I didn't trust myself enough to reboot myself....hence why ive been doing the "easy" slide
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Old 08-24-2013, 06:51 AM   #1943
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Ok, so now that I have had my 5100s and Eibachs installed, I have noticed a change. When I start driving and am gaining speed, I feel a vibration. What it feels like to me is the tread from my tires. Is that possible and to be expected? It's not really too bothersome, it's just something new and different and I want to make sure I'm not missing something.
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Old 08-24-2013, 07:47 AM   #1944
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Originally Posted by stikle View Post
Ok, so now that I have had my 5100s and Eibachs installed, I have noticed a change. When I start driving and am gaining speed, I feel a vibration. What it feels like to me is the tread from my tires. Is that possible and to be expected? It's not really too bothersome, it's just something new and different and I want to make sure I'm not missing something.
Could be a number of things. What all did you do to your rig? How'd you lift the rear? Did you drop the carrier bearing at all? It could be a very simple fix. It could be a very costly fix. The search function should be your new BF to figure it out. With the Eibachs, you really need some weight on the front of your truck...if you have none (Skids, Bumper, winch, etc...) your front end may just be a tad high and your cv angle could be the culprit.

Edit: Is it like a "whaaa whaaa whaaa" vibe?
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Old 08-24-2013, 04:43 PM   #1945
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Originally Posted by stikle View Post
Ok, so now that I have had my 5100s and Eibachs installed, I have noticed a change. When I start driving and am gaining speed, I feel a vibration. What it feels like to me is the tread from my tires. Is that possible and to be expected? It's not really too bothersome, it's just something new and different and I want to make sure I'm not missing something.
First is the steering wheel shaking or the truck? If it's the steering wheel then it is probably the cv's. If it's the truck, it's probably the carrier bearing. I dropped my carrier bearing by stacking washer's. Cost me like $3.

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Old 08-26-2013, 09:36 AM   #1946
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The best way I can describe the vibration is this: Imagine you are pulled over on the side of the road and your wheels are on the rumble strip. As your wheels start rolling forward, a slow vibration can be felt that increases in frequency until 30mph when it really can't be felt anymore.

It's not even as remotely bad as being on a rumble strip however. I don't have swampers or anything super-aggressive, so I'm starting to think my initial hypothesis of "feeling the tread" was incorrect.

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Originally Posted by taco47001 View Post
Could be a number of things. What all did you do to your rig? How'd you lift the rear? Did you drop the carrier bearing at all? It could be a very simple fix. It could be a very costly fix. The search function should be your new BF to figure it out. With the Eibachs, you really need some weight on the front of your truck...if you have none (Skids, Bumper, winch, etc...) your front end may just be a tad high and your cv angle could be the culprit.

Edit: Is it like a "whaaa whaaa whaaa" vibe?
I had 5100's added all around with Eibach coils. Also added 3 leaf progressive AAL pack from Wheelers, diff drop, steering rack/sway bar bushings.

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Originally Posted by Gear Head View Post
First is the steering wheel shaking or the truck? If it's the steering wheel then it is probably the cv's. If it's the truck, it's probably the carrier bearing. I dropped my carrier bearing by stacking washer's. Cost me like $3.
It's 95% in the truck and just a little bit can be felt in the wheel. I'll try your washer mod first and see if there's a change. That seems like the cheapest/easiest thing to try.

Thanks!
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Old 08-26-2013, 10:31 AM   #1947
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Originally Posted by Konaborne View Post
I've blown 5 boots, one was an outer...
Since we're on the topic of blowing boots galore.... where's the cheapest to get a good boot? Stealership? What do they run for upper/lower boots??
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Old 08-26-2013, 11:13 AM   #1948
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Originally Posted by SeattleCoug View Post
Since we're on the topic of blowing boots galore.... where's the cheapest to get a good boot? Stealership? What do they run for upper/lower boots??
Probably auto zone or similar unless you are looking for high angle, or silicone boots. I would imagine they are all the same with something like that. For silicone or high angle you can try all pro offroad. I have the all pro boots and man what a difference. The all pro ones ONLY go on the inside...closest to the diff.
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Old 08-26-2013, 01:41 PM   #1949
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Originally Posted by taco47001 View Post
Probably auto zone or similar unless you are looking for high angle, or silicone boots. I would imagine they are all the same with something like that. For silicone or high angle you can try all pro offroad. I have the all pro boots and man what a difference. The all pro ones ONLY go on the inside...closest to the diff.
High angle or silicone boots? Hmm sounds like a better option given my CV angles even with the front diff drop installed. That's the biggest downside of a lift is the boots getting worn out/blown
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Old 08-26-2013, 02:04 PM   #1951
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your drive line angle is still pretty bad for the last U joint. Id get some axle shims.
Yeah I've noticed that. I need to figure out a way to measure what degree shims to get.
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Old 08-26-2013, 02:50 PM   #1953
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Originally Posted by Blackdawg View Post
Doesn't take much. Mine is only like 1/4" thick on the back. Like 3-4*
My buddy has some, I'll see if I can get them. No vibes would be amazing!
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Old 08-26-2013, 02:51 PM   #1954
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Shimming the axle is the correct method to fix incorrect pinion angle. Check it with a simple protractor, $1 in school supplies.


A little rumble at take off up to 30-40 mph after a lift is almost always incorrect pinion angle.


OEM boot Kits are the best deal going. Around $25 for an inner and $50 for both at the online dealers. The Kits have everything needed, 2 kinds of lube, clamps and all c-clips. You will need a tool if you use the OEM clamps.
The All Pro boot is nothing more than a $10 Porsche 930 CV boot that must be clamped on top of the old boots inner ring. The 930 boot is round and the end bell of the CV is triangular. Sketchy at best with a poor track record plus you still need clamps, lube and clips.

Keep in mind that OEM boots will not fit on most aftermarket Chinese CVs, you know, the cheap ones sold as "new".

OEM clamp tool. Some folks have used "end cutters" with varying degrees of success.
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Old 08-26-2013, 07:45 PM   #1955
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Originally Posted by Dirty Pool View Post
A little rumble at take off up to 30-40 mph after a lift is almost always incorrect pinion angle.
Well, I added 8 washers per side to drop the carrier bearing down a little bit, and I THINK it's better...but that might just be the placebo effect.

What's the corrective action if it's an incorrect pinion angle?
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Old 08-26-2013, 07:59 PM   #1956
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Would getting 32, or 33" tires change the angle of the CV joints much?
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Old 08-27-2013, 05:32 AM   #1958
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Nope
I thought it did very little, I noticed from 31s to 33s the angled lessend ? Maybe it's an illusion
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Old 08-27-2013, 10:42 AM   #1959
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Originally Posted by stikle View Post
Well, I added 8 washers per side to drop the carrier bearing down a little bit, and I THINK it's better...but that might just be the placebo effect.

What's the corrective action if it's an incorrect pinion angle?
Dropping the carrier bearing does the same thing as "shimming" the rear axle, to a point. As the carrier is lowered it detracts from the proper angle of the front half of the drive shaft while improving the rear angle. In cases where there is (very) minimal pinion angle error, dropping the carrier a tad, like you did, may provide symptomatic relief. It is just not the best over all solution.
The best use for dropping the carrier is to see if pinion angle is the source of a vibe (outside of actually measuring it), then correct the pinion angle with wedge shaped shims between the spring pack and the spring perch. Search the net for "pinion angle" and "pinion angle shims".
The perfect pinion angle for my springs is around a degree or two down from pointing directly at the carrier bearing. Under load, the rear will tend/try to rotate the pinion "up" (axle wrap) in reaction to the torque of the axles. In a perfect world the rear u-joint will then be at the theoretical strongest angle. Additionally, this slightly low angle will let the rear u-joint bearings move just enough to spread the wear a little and to help to distribute lube. The amount of shimming needed will vary from one spring design to another. There are "guidelines" to determine the required shim for a given lift but I hold to "just measure it and correct it".

Quote:
Originally Posted by SeattleCoug View Post
Would getting 32, or 33" tires change the angle of the CV joints much?
Not much if any from diameter. An increase in track width from a larger tire can effectively provide greater leverage through the LCA against the spring resulting in a slightly lower ride height.
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Old 08-27-2013, 11:06 AM   #1960
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirty Pool View Post
Dropping the carrier bearing does the same thing as "shimming" the rear axle, to a point. As the carrier is lowered it detracts from the proper angle of the front half of the drive shaft while improving the rear angle. In cases where there is (very) minimal pinion angle error, dropping the carrier a tad, like you did, may provide symptomatic relief. It is just not the best over all solution.
The best use for dropping the carrier is to see if pinion angle is the source of a vibe (outside of actually measuring it), then correct the pinion angle with wedge shaped shims between the spring pack and the spring perch. Search the net for "pinion angle" and "pinion angle shims".
The perfect pinion angle for my springs is around a degree or two down from pointing directly at the carrier bearing. Under load, the rear will tend/try to rotate the pinion "up" (axle wrap) in reaction to the torque of the axles. In a perfect world the rear u-joint will then be at the theoretical strongest angle. Additionally, this slightly low angle will let the rear u-joint bearings move just enough to spread the wear a little and to help to distribute lube. The amount of shimming needed will vary from one spring design to another. There are "guidelines" to determine the required shim for a given lift but I hold to "just measure it and correct it".
Ok, thanks for the information. I'll go off-a-researching.
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