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HOW TO: Remove/Install a starter/fix a clicking starter (2.7 liter 3RZ-FE engine)

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by trdracing5, Sep 17, 2011.

  1. Feb 2, 2013 at 5:50 PM
    #21
    TacomaJPP

    TacomaJPP To secure peace, is to prepare for war

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    Nice write up. My buddy called me today and wanted to replace his. Looks like we will be doing this instead.
     
  2. Mar 8, 2013 at 6:17 PM
    #22
    smesser2

    smesser2 New Member

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    Pardon my ignorance, but I am new to the forum and also a relatively new Tacoma owner. I was told at a shop that I needed to replace my starter, but after reading this thread I believe I just need to replace my solenoid contacts and the plungers. The problem is that I have an 01 3.4L V6 with TRD and I have read that this is harder to repair. If you guys could give any helpful hints it would be much appreciated because I haven't done any work on my truck yet and reading that the 3.4L is more difficult has me a little nervous.
     
  3. Mar 10, 2013 at 8:35 PM
    #23
    trdracing5

    trdracing5 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I am not sure what you mean that the 3.4L is "harder to repair".
    Its not harder to repair. It might be harder to get it off of the 3.4 engine but the repair is the same.
     
  4. Mar 13, 2013 at 2:01 PM
    #24
    smesser2

    smesser2 New Member

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    Yeah, I guess really what I meant wasn't the actual repair, but the fact that it is harder to get off. Are there any special tips that may help since it is harder to get off?
     
  5. Mar 13, 2013 at 3:26 PM
    #25
    trdracing5

    trdracing5 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    The only experience with the 3.4 engine that I have was when I took the starter off my sons 2002 4Runner. It was a 2WD so it wasn't all that hard (a 4WD would be harder-more stuff in the way). I would assume that the Tacoma would be about the same level of difficulty as a 4Runner. It was about a 6 on a scale of 10 (in my opinion) as far as difficulty to remove.
     
  6. Mar 13, 2013 at 11:22 PM
    #26
    IDtrucks

    IDtrucks Unhinged and Fluid

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    yes, as I have heard the 3.4 is harder to remove the starter than the 2.7...and i thought the 2.7 was a massive PITA! Couldn't imagine how annoying it would be if the 3.4 was even harder.
     
  7. Mar 19, 2013 at 11:04 AM
    #27
    SuperSizeRC

    SuperSizeRC New Member

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    OP, and others, thank you so much for posting this info!

    I drive a 2005 Tacoma 4x4 Manual reg cab with 85K miles. Clicking and slow starts got worse over the past three months and thought I needed a new one but found this forum/post and figured I give this repair a try.

    Yesterday I replaced the starter contacts/plunger with parts from Nations. 35 bucks and they were here in 2 days. Props to them!

    I slid under my truck to remove the starter, no jack or tire removal. I used a torque wrench to remove the 14mm mounting bolts which gave me just enough leverage. Top bolt needed the socket extension and was a bit tricky.

    Took me about 3.5 hours. Truck is starting like a champ!

    Feels great to save a ton of money and DIY. One shop wanted $750 for a new starter and labor...
     
  8. Mar 19, 2013 at 11:39 AM
    #28
    trdracing5

    trdracing5 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Glad my "how to" could help yet another member. :D
     
  9. Mar 22, 2013 at 1:44 PM
    #29
    gershgoroth

    gershgoroth Member

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    great write up, but as others have pointed out, the 3.4l 4x4 is more of a challenge.
    i am a novice but pretty mechanically inclined and i have gotten the starter detached from the engine, but cannot get it out!
    below is a picture of what i'm looking at, and im guessing others are having trouble with as well.
    I think it's the brake line, which i have read you can unbolt from the frame; only problem is, mine seems to be rusted up tight (i have tried several liquid-wrench type chemicals to free up the corrosion, but to no avail and dont want to push it, causing damage to the bolt)

    any suggestions on how to get the sucker out? i really dont want to have to pay out the a$$ for a shop to replace something that is almost within reach. . .

    starter.jpg
     
  10. Mar 23, 2013 at 6:46 PM
    #30
    Basil Fawlty

    Basil Fawlty Member

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    If you haven't tried tapping on the bolt head with a hammer to give those miracle chemicals a better chance to seep in, the way my buddy used to get things like that to crack loose on ancient tractors was to heat and cool the bolt (propane flame on the head followed by ice). If you wreck the bolt, you can always drill out and replace it with grade 5 or better from the hardware store.
     
  11. Apr 18, 2013 at 6:21 AM
    #31
    tibblits920

    tibblits920 Tacos Everywhere!

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    Thanks for the simple write up. I'm at 175,000 on my 97 and she just started clicking yesterday. Was able to turn her over by starting in first gear (not sure why that worked yesterday but this morning it didn't). Figure its probably time to replace the contacts and plunger. Ordered from nations...thanks for the recommendation and very easy to understand write up as well. Will be repairing it as soon as the parts get here
     
  12. Apr 19, 2013 at 2:35 PM
    #32
    Furchizedek

    Furchizedek New Member

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    Don't know if this will help, I did mine about a year and a half ago, 4cyl, 4wd, 2000 Tacoma Extra Cab. Anyway, I got mine out through the top. It's not easy but there is a path. You have to disconnect some small air or vacuum things, as I remember, up toward the top. And I put it back in from the top. Make sure you remember which end goes down first! Once you get it back in from the top you can rest it in place until you get back to it via the wheel well and jostle it into position to put the bolts back in. I also reinstalled one of the bolts that hold it to the engine from the top, after getting it started via the wheel well by hand.

     
  13. May 17, 2013 at 8:54 PM
    #33
    tibblits920

    tibblits920 Tacos Everywhere!

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    ya I took mine out through the top and put it back in that way. But damn it was a bitch. I was extremely frustrated during most of this process. I didn't move any lines or anything so that probably didn't help. But I got it done. Somehow. Stripped one of the 14mm bolts holding the starter in place. Somehow managed to get it out and even ended up getting it tight enough after putting the starter back on. What an end to my day. Thanks again for the writeup op
     
  14. Dec 1, 2013 at 5:05 PM
    #34
    Moco

    Moco Well-Known Member

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    Just did this today - broke my black electrical connection on the starter and had to get an aftermarket one. However, I learned some useful tips for anyone that has not done this before.

    I.) move the damn wire harness - its just a 10mm bolt securing it to the bottom of the intake manifold - remove the bolt and swing or zip tie the harness out of the way.

    II.) For the black electrical connector going to the starter, use a very thin flat blade screwdriver to lift up the tab and push up and out. I messed around with this and pulled (broke) the electrical connector inside the starter housing itself.

    III.) Get some liquid wrench and hit both starter bolts with a liberal amount. If you do this the night before, it wont hurt. But deifinitely give it 20-30 minutes before wrenching on them

    IV.) invest in a Gearwrench reversible ratcheting wrench (you need a 14mm, ignore that marking on the pic):
    [​IMG]
    If you pay attention, you can get a set at Advance Auto for $29.99. In fact, I think they are that price right now. They are china made, but fantastic quality for the price. Anyway, dont bother with socket or other wrenches. Undo the the two starter bolts with the 14mm ratcheting wrench. The top bolt will come loose with downward pressure through the wheel well. The bottom bolt will break lose easiest from the bottom of the car (with you on your back) with downward pressure - using your weight to pull down on the ratchet. Once they are spinning freely, hand spin them out from the wheel well.

    V.) The starter comes out pretty easy. I keep reading how its hard to take the starter out. However, its meant to come out of the wheel well and does so easily. Just work the angles and dont be afraid to press it against the clutch lines to squeeze it out.

    The hardest part of the job is breaking the starter bolts loose, once you do that you are on your way.
     
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2013
  15. Apr 10, 2014 at 4:59 PM
    #35
    beedoola

    beedoola Well-Known Member

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    I'm not sure if you folks removed your front wheel or not. I did, and I took the starter out to the left, and down, to the skid plate and removed it out the front, near the strut.

    That rear upper bolt was a PITA to remove. Luckily I had an old bike handle bar and a thin socket wrench and I used the handle bar as leverage for the socket.

    Probably took 45 minutes - most of the time was spent trying to get that upper bolt out.
     
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2014
  16. Apr 16, 2014 at 11:51 AM
    #36
    ironbender

    ironbender Active Member

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    Late to the party here.

    Thanks for this thread as I have a clicker, too. For some reason, it starts fine now that it's getting warmer. There were times in the winter it had to be push-started, but once warm, it was OK.

    Local NAPA wants $145 for a new starter which I've been avoiding. ;)
     
  17. May 14, 2014 at 10:23 AM
    #37
    4runnercaged

    4runnercaged Well-Known Member

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    question,

    my buddies starter just went out on his 2.7, its just like wining and not catching or even trying to start the engine.


    if i replace the plunger and contacts will that fix it or does he need a whole new starter?
     
  18. Jun 4, 2014 at 7:09 AM
    #38
    reebok

    reebok Member

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    I replaced the guts but not the plunger. I seem to be having the same problem again here a month later. could the plunger actually be the problem or should I look elsewhere? thanks.
     
  19. Aug 24, 2014 at 6:03 PM
    #39
    97TacoNM

    97TacoNM Riding a 97 Taco

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    Absolutely f'ing ridiculous. I have the 2.7L 4WD, it's a 97, and that damn starter does not go out that wheel well. The brake lines have almost no play, so loosening that bracket does very very little. I had to take apart the dumb thing so I could get it out. No idea how I am going to get the new one back in, unless I take it apart and put it back in in two pieces. This has to be the most frustrating thing I have had to deal with. There does not seem to be any option to get a starter in and out, unless you remove brake lines or the manifold.

    I paid the $15 to get onto Toyota TIS, and it has nothing to say about removing the starter. It goes into detail how to disassemble the starter itself, which is nice, if you could get it out of the silly truck! ;)
     
  20. Aug 28, 2014 at 6:26 PM
    #40
    97TacoNM

    97TacoNM Riding a 97 Taco

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    I put the new one in from the top. Moved the fuel lines around as they were flexible and wrestled the new one down in. Stared up just fine with the new one.
     

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