I just did both my inner tie rods last week! Bought Moog's from RockAuto
, with the discount code, they were like $44 shipped, as opposed to the big chains wanting $65+ tax and a day to get them from the wharehouse.
Raised the truck, removed both wheels...makes it easier and actually minimal crawling under the truck. Need 2 big crescent wrenches, one to hold the the tie rod and the other to free the jam nut.
Cut the metal clamp, the one closest to the rack, off the boot with a wire cutter. MAKE sure you don't screw up your boot if it is still usable! The other clamp on the outer tie rod side can just be hand squeezed and left to rest on the outer tie rod and reused later.
Make sure you measure where your jam nut is on the thread, you'll need to adjust as close to that as possible when you reassemble. Once you have the jam nut free, spin it a little further back and then use your crescent wrench to undo the inner from the outer. You will have plenty of room as the back of the hub keeps moving out. Use the crescent wrench again on the rack side of the tie rod, just to free it, then I was able to spin the tie rod off by hand.
I lubed the threads up on everything when I reassembled...as far as the lock washer on the rack side of the inner rod, I put it in there, there are to tabs to lock it into the rack...but I didn't bend them in at all like the original. As far as I could tell bending them really didn't do anything as I didn't have to flatten out the originals to get the inner to spin on the rack.
Then re-thread the inner to the outer and get the jam nut as close as possible to where it was when you measured it. Use your old clamp on the outer rod side of the boot and I used a wire tie on the rack side of the boot. I actually used 2 wire ties together on the rack side because I didn't have a long enough wire tie...seems to holding just fine.
I also did my rack bushing with Energy Suspension bushings at the same time...
The tie rods were maybe a 45min job each side.
Hope this helps