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Cheap lift kit

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Orlo555, Jan 4, 2012.

  1. Jan 4, 2012 at 9:57 AM
    #1
    Orlo555

    Orlo555 [OP] Member

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    Hey everyone, what's your opion for a cheap to reasonable lift kit set up for a 2003 v6 4x4 taco. I do not off road as there is not much around me but Ive had the truck for years and definetly tired of stock look. I think 33s would be good to beef it up but still keep it streetable. Any suggestions on how much lift I need and what kits or parts I can use and not be to expensive or cause major damage to other parts like the diffs. Any oter suggestions would be appreciated or any tips on tire and rim size.
    Thanks Adam
     
  2. Jan 4, 2012 at 10:23 AM
    #2
    Honey badger

    Honey badger Honey badger hits whatever tree he wants to hit!!

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    Kings FTW!! No really 5100's please don't get a spacer go with the billys.
     
  3. Jan 4, 2012 at 10:37 AM
    #3
    Orlo555

    Orlo555 [OP] Member

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    What else do I need besides 5100s and what are Billy's, what size tires can I run with 5100s
     
  4. Jan 4, 2012 at 10:41 AM
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    TacoMX

    TacoMX TW's Official anti body-lift pundit

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    Billy's is the nickname for Bilstein.

    Get some Bilstein 5100 Shocks, the front shocks are adjustable for lift. Use your stock coils and set the front on 2.5''. In the rear get either an AAL or a Lift shackle.

    2.5'' in the front and 1.5-2'' of lift in the rear will get you about level.

    All four bilstein 5100's is $300 from downsouth motorsports with the TW dicount and free shipping. Toytec has a 2'' AAL for $40-$80 depending on which one you pick.

    Thats the cheapest lift you can get without going with shit spacers and blocks.

    Should be able to run 32X11.5 or similar size without any problems with this lift.
     
  5. Jan 4, 2012 at 11:17 AM
    #5
    Orlo555

    Orlo555 [OP] Member

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    How do the 5100 work to get lift with stock springs, also why about control arms or sway bar links or brake lines is that 2.5 bigger than those stock components can handle
    Thanks for all the advise
     
  6. Jan 4, 2012 at 11:26 AM
    #6
    TacoMX

    TacoMX TW's Official anti body-lift pundit

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    The lower spring perch has 3 settings giving the coil preload to lift the truck. I cant remember how much the first 2 postions give; but the tallest gives 2.5''.

    Control arms, sway links, brake lines in the front will be fine all stock with the 2.5'' of lift. You might want to get a diff drop to reduce CV angle, but its not required.

    In the rear you will probably need a longer brake line, and if you get an AAL you will need longer u bolts.
     
  7. Jan 4, 2012 at 1:21 PM
    #7
    andoskyy

    andoskyy Well-Known Member

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    For what its worth, I have spacers in my 1996 with AAL's in the rear, and have also lifted numerous friend's 4runners and tacomas with spacers and they are all perfectly happy. if you arent doing a lot of off roading, spacers and blocks/AAL's shouldn't be completely eliminated
     
  8. Jan 4, 2012 at 1:31 PM
    #8
    Tacomanater

    Tacomanater Well-Known Member

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    '02 SR5, 4WD, V6, 5Spd
    JBA headers & exhaust, new cats, K&N CAI, new shocks, 2.5" lift, Prodigy P2, Timbren, snobord552 light bar (v.2), KC off-roads and Hella fog lights, Teflon A/R ATX 16" Ledge, Nitto Terra Grappler, (265/75R16's), ultragauge, curt roof rack on thule set-up.
    There are pros and cons to spacers/blocks. They are cheap and will give you "the look"...the question might be better asked, at what cost? I can tell you that I just did a ready-lift block install and the truck looks fine, but it rides like shit!...and this is with new shocks, too! Had I known, I would have installed Bilsteins or others to acheive the same results. You decide what is more important to you and your wallet. My situation works for me, for know, but, I will change up the suspension most likely, later this year.

    Spacers work, they are cheap. Shocks, etc., are a better way to go. As long as your lift isn't more that 2.5" you should be all set with the rest of the truck staying stock. Once you pierce the 3" lift threshold, it gets more expensive as more parts are required. Check the suspension sticky in here....great place to start, it will answer a bunch of questions. And there are plenty of helpful members in here. GL.
     
  9. Jan 4, 2012 at 1:33 PM
    #9
    k9cop

    k9cop if your not the lead dog, the view never changes

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    pro crap (comp) for now, then when you get some flow...king's. lol, get the billies
     
  10. Jan 4, 2012 at 2:26 PM
    #10
    kmok

    kmok Plastidipped ma Hootus!

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  11. Jan 5, 2012 at 8:21 AM
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    Orlo555

    Orlo555 [OP] Member

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    You say with the 5100 and add a leads I should be able to run 32x11.50s without rubbing is that including no rubbing during off roading, if I put 33x12.50s on would I rub on the street or just when off roading, also ether 32x11.50 or 33x12.5 do I need a wider rims if so how wide and what back spacing do I need
     
  12. Jan 5, 2012 at 8:36 AM
    #12
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    cheap lift?? is there such a thing???..

    33x12.5s will rub no matter what. Even with 3'' of lift. You have to do trimming with them. Ask me how i know.

    3.75'' BS is best for 12.5s. 4'' is fine with 11.5s or even really stock rims. You need an 8'' wide rim for 12.5'' wide tires tho. Thats the minimum to keep for doing damaging wear on the tires.
     
  13. Jan 5, 2012 at 10:28 AM
    #13
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Made you look

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    Cheap lift???

    let's just say, in general, you get what you pay for. The exception I beleive is the set of 5100's. I just installed mine a few weeks back. The 3 levels for the front are stock, 1.5", and 2.5" lift. I put mine at 1.5" lift, and got a Toytech 1" shackle for the rear.

    If you want a stock height, you need to get the 5125's for the rear (according to DSM where got mine). The 5100 rear shocks need at least 1" lift.

    For around $350 bucks, you've got a decent 0-2.5" lift with good shocks. Any more lift than that and you'll want to start working on your CV angles (= more $$$).
     
  14. Jan 5, 2012 at 1:00 PM
    #14
    Orlo555

    Orlo555 [OP] Member

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    So if I go 5100 front and rear with add a leads it should give me 2.5 of lift and 32x11.50 will work, what about 33x11.50s. And I'm good with rims with 4 inch of backspacing and 8 inch wide for any 11.50 tire, any suggestions on decent priced tires that are good in those sizes
     
  15. Jan 5, 2012 at 1:00 PM
    #15
    tan4x4

    tan4x4 Well-Known Member

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    Devil's advocate here.

    Block lift seems to be everyone's favorite whipping boy, but I think for the wrong reasons.

    Please explain why simply adding blocks affects THE RIDE? Seems to me,
    the ride is determined by the quality and condition of the shocks and springs.
    If all you do is add blocks (and longer u-bolts of course), then "the ride" should be the same.

    The only real disadvantages are increased axle wrap, and reduced axle droop.
    These can be corrected by an anti-wrap bar and longer shocks.
     
  16. Jan 5, 2012 at 2:02 PM
    #16
    YotaKid62

    YotaKid62 Dirty mall crawler

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    Exactly how much trimming do you have to do to get 33's under a 3 " lift? I want to get some on my truck but don't really want to cut alot of stuff.
    So should I just save myself the trouble and go with 32's until I can afford more lift?
     
  17. Jan 6, 2012 at 1:09 AM
    #17
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    Good luck finding a 33x11.5r15 tire :rolleyes:

    Dependeds on the truck and lift really. and BS. So far tho, its lookin like not much for me. Just the part on the firewall side. There is a part that sticks out and covers the pinch weld, just gotta wack that off and smash the pinch weld against the truck. But i haven't been wheeling yet so we shall see.

    Others have had to do more and some almost none.
     
  18. Jan 9, 2012 at 11:24 AM
    #18
    fueldriver

    fueldriver Member

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    3 in revteck lift
    i got a 3 in revteck lift on my 06 taco, just wondering if 285/70/17 would be ok and not rub.
     
  19. Jan 9, 2012 at 11:30 AM
    #19
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 is going full "SANDWICH" Moderator

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    Some stuff. Not a lot, just some.
    Adding blocks gives the axle more leverage against the springs (axle wrap). Leafs springs are designed to pushed against, not twisted. Twisting causes the to weaken fast.
     
  20. Jan 9, 2012 at 1:52 PM
    #20
    PRBond

    PRBond Well-Known Member

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    Personally, I like the spacers in the front. In fact, I kept with the stock TRD rims and went with a little larger, but more agressive tire in the 265 X 75 X 16 BFG AT's and I love the way my truck looks.

    I've found that with most Tacomas at stock height look a bit lower in the front than in the rear. So, by just installing the 3" spacers in the front and leaving the rear of the truck alone I've found that my truck sits a lot better and I have no problem at all with tire clearance or rubbing. That lift actually puts the front of my truck just a tiny bit higher than the rear, giving my PreRunner that PreRunner look. (I'll try to take some newer pics of my truck this week to post and show what I mean.)
     

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