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How To: Clutch Slave cylinder rebuild

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Old 01-09-2012, 10:21 PM   #1
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How To: Clutch Slave cylinder rebuild

I posted this in the tech section too...but figured it could be posted here too.

This is for a 1st gen 2.7 5-speed, but most slave cylinders are pretty much the same so this should work with all of our truck that have a manual transmission.

My clutch has been acting funny lately, no slipping but the pedal will sometimes lose its pressure and stick to the floor and pre-engage; that usually indicates a bad slave cylinder.

So after looking for replacements; they run about $45-$80 for aftermarket and re-manufactured...I didn't even want to see how much OEM Toyota was. So me being the cheap SOB and tinkerer I am, I looked for alternatives.

There are only a few small parts that get replaced, as the unit is just a cylinder with a piston.

A rebuild kit is only $9-$12. The one I ordered was $12 from advanced autoparts by beck/arnley ; it includes the spring. The one for $9 is from autozone and doesn't include the spring. The beck/arnley kit is also made in Japan, which is nice.

So we dive in:

The slave cylinder is located on the drivers side of the tranny (on the 2.7). Its held onto the tranny with two 12mm bolts. And the hardline going into the unit is held on with a 10mm flare-nut fitting.





The use of a flare nut wrench is advised when removing the hard line fitting, because potential corrosion can make removal of the fitting troublesome if you round off the fitting with an open-ended wrench. But here in FL corrosion isn't a problem and I used an open-ended wrench with no problem.

It is also advised to bleed all the brake fluid out of the system before you remove the slave cylinder to avoid making a mess.



The kit:



Once you have the unit off the truck the first thing you want to do is remove the old dust boot and remove and clean up the push rod because the rod will be re-used.





Next remove the old piston and spring. Your old one may just fall out depending on how worn it is, or you have to us air to blow it out.

Old piston in the unit:



Old (Left) vs. New (right):


Note how the fins on the seals on the old piston are flattened out compared to the fins on the new ones

Now you need to clean up the inside of the unit. It took a lot of paper towels and q-tips to clean mine out. Lots of debris and crap in it.

After cleaning everything up, insert the pushrod into the new dust boot.

Like so:





Then after slipping the new spring onto the new piston, insert the new piston into the unit spring first. I read that using caliper grease is recommended to lube the seals, but I didn't have any so I just lubed up the seals with some brake fluid.



Now is the hardest part...you have to strech the new dust seal over the lip on the unit while fighting against the spring pressure of the piston...and your hands are probably all greasy so it will be a PITA.

After I got the dust boot on I safety wired the boot on the unit, which probably isn't necessary; but the spool of safety wire was within reaching distance so i did it




Now all you have to do is re-install the unit. The end of the push rod goes in the slot on the arm thats on the tranny. Make sure you snug up the fitting on the hard line. Then all you have to do is bleed the clutch and your done!

For about $12 and an hours work you can save yourself some decent cash.

Have fun
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Old 01-10-2012, 09:53 AM   #3
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thanks man
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Old 01-13-2012, 04:24 PM   #4
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I finally got a chance to take it for a spin with the rebuilt slave...what a difference!

The pedal is nice and firm and the clutch engagement is nice and crisp
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Old 02-14-2012, 11:54 AM   #5
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STICKY!!
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Old 02-14-2012, 10:42 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by wolfgang123 View Post
STICKY!!
thanks
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Old 03-11-2012, 04:34 PM   #7
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sweet
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Old 04-27-2012, 01:01 PM   #8
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Yeah, I used to rebuild my clutch slave cylinder on my old 1987 Toyota pickup all the time. It seems like mine wouldn't last a year before it would start leaking and a brand new slave cylinder is not cheap... Not sure why I had issues with mine...possibly where it was located and it took a beating
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Old 02-22-2013, 05:15 PM   #10
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Nice write-up

Thanks for taking the time to document your repair job.

Sometimes if the cylinder has corrosion in it, you'll need to run a hone through it;

Quote:
Attach a small brake cylinder hone to a drill. Hone the cast iron bore. This will clean and true the bore to ensure it is perfectly round. Install a new or rebuilt piston assembly. In some cases, it may be necessary to rebuild the existing assembly with new seals. These seals are easy to install but be sure to lubricate the piston seals with clean brake fluid before assembly. Install the snap ring and rubber dust cap.
I try to keep my fluid fresh by occasionally bleeding my clutch system, just like we do with our brakes.
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Old 02-22-2013, 05:39 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devout View Post
Thanks for taking the time to document your repair job.

Sometimes if the cylinder has corrosion in it, you'll need to run a hone through it;

I try to keep my fluid fresh by occasionally bleeding my clutch system, just like we do with our brakes.
I wish I would have known about having to hone it now...My clutch hydraulics are bleeding off again and engaging close to the floor. I may just buy a slave from autozone
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Old 02-23-2013, 05:53 AM   #12
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I see you're in a humid area. It can be tough keeping moisture out, especially with these damn nylon reservoirs.

Between bleeds, the turkey baster is your friend for fluid changes.
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Old 10-28-2013, 09:48 AM   #13
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TY

Thanks for the post
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Old 07-10-2014, 09:32 AM   #14
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No need to remove slave ...

the seal kit can be installed with the cylinder still in place. Makes and hour job about 5 minutes instead.
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Old 07-11-2014, 06:53 AM   #15
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Yeah brake fluid for a lubricant not a good idea in my mind. Otherwise nice write up.
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