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Old 01-10-2012, 11:24 AM   #1
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Check Engine light

About 6 months ago just about a week before I went in for my State Inspection and Emissions test my Check Engine light came on. This happened about an hour after I got gas. So I figured maybe I did not tighten the gas cap enough. After a day or so of driving the light went off. So a few days later I went in and the truck passed the State Inspection. Well after 6 months the Check Engine light came on again. It has been a few weeks since it came on and the truck is running normally. However the Check Engine light is still on. I know I should go get this checked out but I really am tight for cash at the moment. The truck is a 2003 Toyota Tacoma. It only has 41,000 miles on it. I am not sure why the Check Engine light would come on. I am hoping it is something simple to fix. Is there anything I could do myself to get that light to shut off? Thanks.
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Old 01-10-2012, 11:25 AM   #2
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check engine or maintenance ,, I know auto zone and advance will check that for free.
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Old 01-10-2012, 11:54 AM   #4
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I will go to AutoZone tomorrow and get the code. No I wouldn't attempt to fix it myself if it was something complicated lol. My guess it will be.
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Old 01-10-2012, 01:25 PM   #5
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Well I can't afford something major is what I was getting at. Hoping it might cost something like a $150 or less.
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Old 01-10-2012, 01:28 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brunes View Post
Go to an AutoZone/Advance/Pep Boys/Random other car place and get the code read...Let us know what the code is...and then we can give you some more insight.

If you are "tight on cash" then you can't afford a quick fix to make the light go out that leads to your engine eating itself...Can you??
If the motor is running fine, most of the things that can trigger a CEL wont lead to a catastrophic engine failure.

So dont worry too much till you get the codes scanned.
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Old 01-10-2012, 02:14 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HIYota View Post
What state are you in? Just saying cause in Cali Autozone can't loan out a reader legally. This is probably the only state with that law but I figured to point it out incase you are.
so glad I dont live in that shitty ass state...

Florida FTW
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Old 01-10-2012, 02:47 PM   #9
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Well I went to both Advance Auto and AutoZone. Both of them came up with a Heated Oxygen Sensor bank 1 sensor 2 (H02S12) Troubleshooting code is :P0136.
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Old 01-10-2012, 03:00 PM   #10
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That should come in under $150 if you DIY. Should be an easy fix. Make sure you spray the sensor threads with PB Blaster or equivalent and give it a little time to sink in so you don't have a problem removing the sensor. Also, I seem to remember a recommendation to replace the O2 sensors in pairs, but you should be able to find that with a quick search.
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Old 01-10-2012, 03:08 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TacoMX View Post
If the motor is running fine, most of the things that can trigger a CEL wont lead to a catastrophic engine failure.

So dont worry too much till you get the codes scanned.

Maybe "eating itself" was a bit melodramatic- but one example is that cats are expensive and the motor will run "fine" even while they fall apart. (I know because the cats in my scion failed, trigger the CEL and luckily were covered under warranty...all while the can ran great.)

My point is it's doesn't make sense to use a quick fix (like pull and replace the battery connection) to make teh light go out if money is the issue...It's free to figure out the problem in most areas and then you can make an informed decision to ignore the light or get it fixed.
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Old 01-10-2012, 03:16 PM   #12
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Is it ok to drive with a faulty O2 sensor for awhile? Just curious. Also, can I get a diagram of exactly where the Oxygen Sensor bank 1 sensor 2 (H02S12) is located? Thanks.
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Old 01-10-2012, 07:41 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JT1521 View Post
Is it ok to drive with a faulty O2 sensor for awhile? Just curious. Also, can I get a diagram of exactly where the Oxygen Sensor bank 1 sensor 2 (H02S12) is located? Thanks.
Yeah it wont hurt to run it for a while.

There are two O2 sensors on your truck. One in front of the cat, and one down stream of the cat. I think sensor two is the one downstream of the cat.

Its a super easy job, Just unplug the old sensor, unbolt the two nuts holding the sensor on, and re-install.

PB blaster will be your friend like someone else mentioned. And new stainless nuts from the hardware store will probably be a good buy. You will probably need a new 02 sensor gasket too.
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Old 01-10-2012, 07:41 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brunes View Post
Maybe "eating itself" was a bit melodramatic- but one example is that cats are expensive and the motor will run "fine" even while they fall apart. (I know because the cats in my scion failed, trigger the CEL and luckily were covered under warranty...all while the can ran great.)

My point is it's doesn't make sense to use a quick fix (like pull and replace the battery connection) to make teh light go out if money is the issue...It's free to figure out the problem in most areas and then you can make an informed decision to ignore the light or get it fixed.
gotcha
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Old 01-10-2012, 11:40 PM   #15
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I was actually directed to this site by an AutoZone employee. He said I could get the part much cheaper on www.rockauto.com. Here is the link for the specific part I need. Stupid question but does this look like this comes with the gasket. Looks like it to me. lol It is DENSO Part # 2344189. When you get to that site just click on the small picture. Thanks.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...artnum=2344189
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Old 01-10-2012, 11:49 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JT1521 View Post
I was actually directed to this site by an AutoZone employee. He said I could get the part much cheaper on www.rockauto.com. Here is the link for the specific part I need. Stupid question but does this look like this comes with the gasket. Looks like it to me. lol It is DENSO Part # 2344189. When you get to that site just click on the small picture. Thanks.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...artnum=2344189
They should come with a paper and liquid gasket. o2 Sensors regulate the amount of fuel to air ratio. You would be fine to run without them, you'll just use more gas. You can actually get buy something that tricks the the engine into thinking that everything is running good.
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Old 01-11-2012, 08:06 AM   #17
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I know it looks pretty straight forward on replacing the downstream Oxygen sensor bank 1 sensor 2. If someone could give me step by step instructions on exactly what I need to do to replace the sensor. Including replacement bolts and what sizes they are. What tools I will need etc. I think I will be getting the
DENSO Part # 2344189 (Automatic trans.; Wire Length 37.80; DENSO is the O.E. Manufacturer; Downstream) also I will buy the DORMAN Part # 47021 gasket as well.
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Old 01-11-2012, 09:24 AM   #18
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I just bought the Densco O2 sensor in front of the Cats (A/F sensor) from rockauto and it came with a gasket. I also wasn't sure and purchased a gasket just in case. Now I have an extra. The one supplied was a nice metal gasket. BTW..check out the BUY/SELL/TRADE section under vendors. Rockauto gives a 5% discount to forum members. Once you buy from them they will email you additional discount codes.
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Old 01-11-2012, 09:41 AM   #19
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I was told by Rock Auto that the Oxygen sensor I was looking at didn't come with the gasket. I believe the one you got is for the upstream not the downstream which I need. Also do you have a 2003 Toyota Tacoma? I just looked under the truck and found the Downstream Oxygen Sensor bank 1 sensor 2 and I noticed there is some kind of heat shield surrounding the sensor. Does that heat shield come right off with the sensor? Do I need to get the shield off first before removing the sensor? This looks like more involved than I thought it was gonna be because there is some rust as well. I can barely see the Oxygen sensor when laying on the ground under the truck. Anyone know how much a body shop normally charges to replace the O2 sensor? I am thinking of buying the part and bringing it to someone to replace.
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Old 01-11-2012, 10:34 AM   #20
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Its not that bad. I replaced both of mine in about hour and a half. The only issue i ran into is the rusted nuts. Spray them down with PB blaster or fluid film a couple hours in advance.
Mine were so rusted that they started breaking apart. Luckily i had some metric nuts laying around that fit perfectly. Not sure what size they were, maybe 8mm?

Just jack the truck up on a lift(if you have access to one) and unplug the wire that comes from the sensor. You'll need a flat head to undo the plug clip. Then just slowly undo the nut and carefully remove the sensor. Not sure what you mean by the heat shield, i dont remember seeing that. Maybe take a picture for me?
Then just take your new sensor out and put your gasket on(there are instructions that come with the sensors) and install the sensor. Make sure to plug the wires back in too.
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