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E-locker not engaging no power at actuator plug

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Old 03-20-2012, 04:21 PM   #1
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E-locker not engaging no power at actuator plug

So i bought a 2001 tacoma trd recently have tried getting the locker to engage, (4 low, fwd, reverse, turning straight the whole works) to no avail, light continuously flashes. Actuator is making no sounds. PO said it worked 6 weeks ago. When the button is pushed and my truck is in 4lo sitting on my driveway in neutral (tranny) and running, i tested the wiring to the actuator by unplugging the 5 wire connector to the actuator here is what i found:

white/black wire: is ground. checked it against one of the license plate lamp bulb ground and it was good to go.

GReen wire (M1): situation as stated above as per the truck, -0.08 v against the white black wire.

Green/red wire (M2): same -0.08v against the white black wire.

green/black: agianst ground, dead

Green/yellow: against ground, dead

Green against Green/red on the old Ohm setting ~70 ohm's

IDK if this helps, what is my next step?
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Old 03-21-2012, 11:03 AM   #2
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Guys I need a hand with this where should I start testing? Maybe it's not reognizing that Im in 4 lo? Or maybe the vss is saying im goong over 5 mph ( my speedo works fine tho) Where / how can I test that? What other switches could be borked that would allow the light to blink but no power going to the rear end? I need to get a handle on this in the next couple days.
Thanks
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Old 03-21-2012, 11:07 AM   #3
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Maybe these will help

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/2003/Wiri...mci/039rdl.pdf

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/2003/Repa.../dlsy/insp.pdf
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Old 03-21-2012, 11:42 AM   #4
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These help greatly, (well the 2nd one at least) where is the diff lock ecu situated?
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Old 03-21-2012, 11:44 AM   #5
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In the 4x4 ECU
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/2003/Repa.../dlsy/loca.pdf
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Old 03-21-2012, 12:01 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98tacoma27 View Post
Rgr that so section 2. C. 3. Of the repair manual diagnostic link u posted is referring simply to the 4wd ecu?
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Old 03-21-2012, 12:05 PM   #7
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Yes. RDL ECU = 4WD ECU
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Old 03-21-2012, 02:14 PM   #8
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Did grey wire and tried a known good 4wd ecu in my truck and it still didn't work at all. Tested my 4wd ecu in buddies truck and his locked up no prob. Where else could a wiring fault be that would make it so that no power at all is going to the actuator? Can someone do me a huge solid and tell me what kinda voltage they get on what wire at the actuator when the diff lock switch is depressed?
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Old 03-22-2012, 07:28 AM   #9
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In section 2. B. of that repair manual diagnostic link, what is the table referring to when it says indicator light in the or off position? Which indicator light?
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Old 03-22-2012, 08:18 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Archer550 View Post
In section 2. B. of that repair manual diagnostic link, what is the table referring to when it says indicator light in the or off position? Which indicator light?
The REAR DIFF switch should light up.

EDIT and there is one on the instrument cluster too
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Old 03-22-2012, 08:34 AM   #11
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http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/2003/Repa...rdc3r/reas.pdf

There is a small amount of info on the last page. With the actuator removed from the differential, you should be able to move it with just the voltage from a C battery
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Old 03-22-2012, 11:15 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98tacoma27 View Post
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/2003/Repa...rdc3r/reas.pdf

There is a small amount of info on the last page. With the actuator removed from the differential, you should be able to move it with just the voltage from a C battery
I do not want to remove my acutuator without knowing 100% that the electrical side is in order as I will not be able to reinstall the actuator into diff as it has be installed locked ( this truck is my dd and I can't have a locked diff ) I moghy have a friend who could borrow me his actuator to test my electronic side of things in exchange for some beers.
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Old 03-26-2012, 03:21 PM   #13
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Okay can some one please measure current accross the back of the plug into the 4wd ecu on terminals m1 and m2 when the rr diff lock button is pushed and the truck is in condition that would normally allow locking but with the elocker actuator unplugged. That would answer my questions.
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Old 08-08-2013, 09:42 AM   #14
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Did you ever solve this problem?
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Old 08-08-2013, 02:46 PM   #15
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4WD is one of the sharper tools in the shed4WD is one of the sharper tools in the shed4WD is one of the sharper tools in the shed4WD is one of the sharper tools in the shed4WD is one of the sharper tools in the shed4WD is one of the sharper tools in the shed4WD is one of the sharper tools in the shed4WD is one of the sharper tools in the shed4WD is one of the sharper tools in the shed4WD is one of the sharper tools in the shed4WD is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlaskanIceman View Post
Did you ever solve this problem?

Just noticed this thread was bumped but the OP isn't entirely correct you can pull the accuator from housing to get a visual for operation when energized. But there may be a need for a little recalibration but its easy to do just went thru this after rebuilding my diff
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Old 08-09-2013, 08:14 AM   #16
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I did solve it Alaskan, I figured out with the actuator unplugged current does not flow normally across the plug so I was not able to properly diagnose the issue with a multimeter.
What I did do was get an old actuator from a friend and plug it in to test it. It worked so I knew my wiring was solid. I then removed the actuator from my truck. I looked at the shaft and noticed it wasn't seized. I then opened the armature or "motor" side of the actuator. It was fully packed with sand... That's why it was making no sound at all when I hit the button, it wasnt the output shaft that was seized but the motor that drives it.

I took apart both sides, of the actuator fully cleaned them, relubed with dielectric grease.
When I reassembled the output shaft side the large o ring was pooched so I used rtv as the gasket.

I hope this helps, please email me (facetothemax@hotmail.com)if u need help being walked trough the process of the rebuild (if that's even your problem) Also the calibration is quite easy to do if you access to a 9v battery or 3.7v lithium. Again I can help explain that if you need help.

Cheers
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