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1st Gen Retrofit Walkthrough: Morimoto Mini H1

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Konaborne, Apr 3, 2012.

  1. Apr 3, 2012 at 3:00 AM
    #1
    Konaborne

    Konaborne [OP] Pineapples on pizza Hawaiian does not it make.

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    So, decided to take a few pics of my installation process. There's a bunch of 2nd gen writeups out on the site but I wanted to make a 1st gen one; they follow the same step process, but I always find walkthroughs easier to follow if they are more similar to what I'm working with....

    I bought my projectors from member RMYC

    He was great to work with, got all of my stuff quick, with insured tracking numbers, and he helped with all my retro noob questions. If you want a budget retro he's your guy.

    (Note: it seems RMYC is no longer active on the forum. Sorry :( )

    TheRetrofitSource is another great retrofit source (aha!) that is a huge TW supporter. Their stuff is top notch, and they always have a group buy going (Group buy price avg-$202)



    So here it goes:

    Starting with this, save your truck from the giant finger-monster and admire how awesome your truck looks; and know that in a few hours it will totally awesome-er.

    retro3-1_dac6bcd70833458d3b4ed099db81744423525f10.jpg


    Next, take apart the front end of your truck. I used this vid when I installed my headlights a few years ago, and puts everything into pretty easy to understand instructions.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G_4RUm_RWnk



    Just a few pics, instructions are in the video. Take off everything I'm pointing to:

    (To remove parking light, remove this screw, then pull the parking light straight out. There's a clip that holds the bottom in place that can be stubborn; I stuck a screwdriver between the headlight assembly and the parking light and wedged it out. Careful not to scratch the headlight.)
    retro6_49a352ffdea0b551003538db4d3ae2736951180c.jpg

    There'll be 2 nuts here, take them off.
    retro8_e887b97c78fe92e0b159d9d30676716e20684beb.jpg

    This body panel is held on by the bolt facing towards the grille, take that off (As seen in the vid) the take the panel off by gently tugging from the bottom upwards. Careful not to bend the panel.
    retro5_19363d7387b0dda0995531f551db74a17a64fcc5.jpg


    Once the panel's off, it'll expose a bolt way on the inside here, so make sure you have an extender
    retro7_fc26fd37d008f29c187e884f68e1768a25b022b8.jpg


    Take the headlight assembly out, repeat the steps for the other side and realize your truck looks like a zombie.
    retro10-1_2cd195c33758a11991cd0ea8a505f8222e3fd8cb.jpg


    Next, remove the clips on the headlight assembly with a flat head screwdriver
    retro18_c2c6c43c2d443e8ad143a9a004b8a6c069f21254.jpg


    Once theyre off, clean off your headlight assembly (mine were still muddy from going bogging a few months ago :mad:)
    and throw them in the oven, on top of some cardboard.
    Heat the oven to 250 (Others say to use 275, and 7 minutes. But I'm a wuss)
    Turn the heat off
    throw the headlight in there
    Take it out after 10 minutes
    retro11_a4bb0b30fdc4520727a77699bf49af45fe5c2059.jpg

    Take it out of the oven quickly (watch out, it's HOT!)
    and begin prying the plastic cover off with a flat head screwdriver. I found it easiest to start at the corner and work my way around, then peeeel the cover off.

    Once the cover is off, remove all the hardware from the back of the housing, and remove the H4 bulb shield.

    retro2_392921e72a52ff575b5dffaef06efe6a6d4efca7.jpg

    After the cover was off, I began to assemble my projectors.
    The Gatling Gun shrouds are held on the projector by 4 screws. The shroud holes for the screws and the holes that are on the projector only line up a certain way, make sure all 4 holes line up or...they wont line up (duh?)

    Note:
    CLEAN THE PROJECTOR BEFORE ATTACHING THE SHROUD, WITH A GOOD MICROFIBER CLOTH.
    I used alcohol on tissue. Now I have tiny bits of dust on the inside of my projector. Doesnt affect light output but annoys the hell out of my OCD.
    retro12_0d23beb9f5260177bb0d7c4c52c6065941fc0b2d.jpg

    When I was assembling my projectors, I tried pre-fitting everything to make sure I knew what to do and that I had all the hardware.
    I noticed that my h4 plate did not fit onto my projector threads; the nub (in red) that lines up with the channel on the projector was sliiiiiightly too large. There was still a tiny bit of burrs on the nub that prevented it from mating with the channel. A few minutes of filing cleared that all up
    retro13-1_e732b150f9205fbcda493df3872f5f038bb8a9fa.jpg

    Next, place the large silicone washer onto the projector, and slide that through the opening of the headlight assembly.


    The h4 plate only fits one way on the assembly, making it dummy proof.
    The hi-beam shield lines up on the bottom of the light, and the channel goes to the 12 o'clock position.
    To clear up any dummy confusion (I was slightly confused) the shield goes on the bottom because of the mechanics of how the lens on the projector works. Like a looking through a magnifying glass, the image that goes through the glass is flipped upside down; so the shield on the bottom shields light from shooting upwards.

    retro16_ef04de80bac2b7bc489e7ddba3c9071e9b524aeb.jpg



    Then, I placed the small silicone washer, then the locking nut.

    Also note:

    To run the hi/lo switch cleanly through the assembly, I cut off the nub on the housing that used to hold the securing wire for the h4 bulbs, then cut a small channel into the existing hole in the housing. Then I just slipped the wires/hi/lo switch through. (Seen in red)
    If you instead choose to widen the hole be careful not to make it too wide; you can start to cut into the reflector housing on the opposite side
    retro14-1_b6d377dc1b24639d4c361ddadbb02ef18e3b58ad.jpg

    After the locking nut is in place, place the clear cover lens back onto the headlight assembly in it's general original position. Gently press it into place, then throw that sucker back into the oven.

    250, off, insert light, 10 mins.
    Note:
    CLEAN THE INSIDE OF THE HOUSING BEFORE INSERTING BACK INTO OVEN. SAVE YOURSELF THE TIME!
    I forgot to clean the housing... those tiny bugs that managed to get inside and die are still there. Bastards.
    retro11_a4bb0b30fdc4520727a77699bf49af45fe5c2059.jpg

    Once the glue is nice and heated again (Im a cheap ass mofo, didn't buy the extra glue; turns out I was lucky and had enough for a good seal)
    use a pair of pliers and press the lens back into place
    retro17_b74e3825dbb04f5afb7d521985db108c6cf18e83.jpg

    then clamp the housing till the glue cools. I clamped them for a good 45 mins each.

    Note:
    due to the shape of these headlamps it will be difficult to find places to clamp... I squeezed the bottom corner you see without clamps, and placed weights on it (Again, no pics! sorry) but think a towel with some heavy books. You might not run into this problem if you have good clamps though, I had crappy ones, as you can see.
    retro15_52e8224ee977f2e03e23dfd95106353ec1c26ae6.jpg

    Now, attach the hardware to mount the bulb (should be 3 screws, one securing wire) and you're done! Just reverse the steps you took to remove the headlight assemblies, make sure you dont lose any bolts!


    The H1 bulb is run just like any other HID; except that the hi function/switch comes from the projector itself.

    The h1 bulbs come with spade connectors and a direct power connection to the ballast. Since our trucks have no spade connectors (originally h4) and you're using a relay to power the hi/lo, just pull them from the grommet.

    Now, adjust your headlights and enjoy!

    [​IMG]

    154734_10200363720123380_2024399994_n_b845583327531d4c5cf28f9a78c7972fdd47d7aa.jpg

    lows w/cutoff, note the lack of light above cutoff
    [​IMG]

    high beams, with the shield flipped up
    [​IMG]

    (pic doesnt do them justice)
    [​IMG]



    After the install, some have found that their high beam shield is always raised when the light is on, which can cause problems driving onroad.
    If you have this problem, refer to here
    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1s...lkthrough-morimoto-mini-h1-3.html#post4871514

    Switching your wires to match the diagram/picture should remedy the problem.
    (A big thanks to Snowman!)
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2015
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    #1
    JDeRose, taco2uesday and SwampYota like this.
  2. Apr 3, 2012 at 3:02 AM
    #2
    Konaborne

    Konaborne [OP] Pineapples on pizza Hawaiian does not it make.

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    Reserved for dummy-proofing; HID install.
     
  3. Apr 3, 2012 at 3:03 AM
    #3
    Konaborne

    Konaborne [OP] Pineapples on pizza Hawaiian does not it make.

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    Also, I realize I may have used the smaller silicone washer in the wrong place....
     
  4. Apr 3, 2012 at 8:47 AM
    #4
    hulkit

    hulkit Well-Known Member

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    u have done a great writeup hopefully when i get time ill be able to do this thanks alot

    so many projects so little time
     
  5. Apr 3, 2012 at 9:25 AM
    #5
    brianpdx

    brianpdx Well-Known Member

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    Outstanding write-up, Kona. Thanks for your work in putting this together!
     
  6. Apr 3, 2012 at 9:53 AM
    #6
    bellassaiw10

    bellassaiw10 Formally afroman5015

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    How do you adjust the projectors to make sure the cutoff step is correct ? always wondered ha
     
  7. Apr 3, 2012 at 11:08 AM
    #7
    Konaborne

    Konaborne [OP] Pineapples on pizza Hawaiian does not it make.

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    Same way you adjust the normal output, using the housing adjustment screws :thumbsup:
     
  8. Apr 3, 2012 at 12:50 PM
    #8
    whatatoy

    whatatoy Galt/Rearden 2012

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    I like it
    This truck is a work truck - not a lot of fancy mod's here, but it's getting the job done!
    subbd
     
  9. Apr 3, 2012 at 12:53 PM
    #9
    Snowman

    Snowman I have a problem for your solution…

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    I didnt use the small one at all.
    FYI it is the exact same process for 01-04, just different shaped headlight.
     
  10. Apr 3, 2012 at 1:08 PM
    #10
    CliffordBRD

    CliffordBRD Well-Known Member

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    Did you aim the actual projectors at all or did you just stick them in the housing and they fit and lined up right once you aimed the headlights?

    I did my bike and aiming them was a PITA, but well worth every penny, did FXRs.

    What kind of headlights did you do these with?

    Well done too!
     
  11. Apr 3, 2012 at 1:11 PM
    #11
    Snowman

    Snowman I have a problem for your solution…

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    With the minis (h1s or ds2s) they only fit one way, no aiming necessary. Just put them in, install the allignment ring, then the lock nut. They will then be centered in the housing and all you you is adjust the headlights as you would normally.

    My H1s also said "top" on the back so you couldnt really mess it up.
     
  12. Apr 3, 2012 at 1:24 PM
    #12
    Fiolo

    Fiolo Senior member

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    Great right up!, where did you buy the projectors from, thinking about doing this
     
  13. Apr 3, 2012 at 1:34 PM
    #13
    bellassaiw10

    bellassaiw10 Formally afroman5015

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    Common vendor is theretrofitsource.com
     
  14. Apr 3, 2012 at 1:41 PM
    #14
    Konaborne

    Konaborne [OP] Pineapples on pizza Hawaiian does not it make.

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    truth.
    all the retrofits are exactly the same, just hadn't seen one for 1st gens, and without having to remove the reflectors to do the BHLM.

    And I really didn't know where to put the small washer....so I put it there :eek:

    ^^^
    This

    Theyre pretty much centered after the install, all I did was adjust them with the housing adjusting tabs that night.

    I used egay clear headlight assemblies. :eek:

    Since I already had the relay/ballasts, and h1 bulbs are cheap, I didn't go through TRS (If anyone is thinking about converting, and need the whole shebang, jump in a TRS group buy)

    I got the projectors from this thread
    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/buy-sell-trade/193216-fs-morimoto-mini-h1-bi-xenon-projectors.html

    RMYC was great; good communication (even answered tard Q's from me) and shipping was fast. Also insured the shipment. Highly recommended from me.
     
  15. Apr 3, 2012 at 2:21 PM
    #15
    Snowman

    Snowman I have a problem for your solution…

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    I noticed that too. I just meant you could probably make this a "98-04 retro guide" since it is exactly the same as it was for my '04. Only difference was there was already a hole in the back of my headlight housings to run the shield wires through.
     
  16. Apr 3, 2012 at 2:22 PM
    #16
    Konaborne

    Konaborne [OP] Pineapples on pizza Hawaiian does not it make.

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    I'll pm a red-name :spy:
     
  17. Apr 3, 2012 at 4:04 PM
    #17
    Fiolo

    Fiolo Senior member

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    How much would it be to buy the whole shebang, a rough estimate
    Relay,bulbs, everything
     
  18. Apr 3, 2012 at 4:08 PM
    #18
    Konaborne

    Konaborne [OP] Pineapples on pizza Hawaiian does not it make.

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  19. Apr 3, 2012 at 4:59 PM
    #19
    Fiolo

    Fiolo Senior member

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    hmm, 202 bucks sounds pretty good, thanks
     
  20. Apr 3, 2012 at 6:26 PM
    #20
    Murkules

    Murkules Well-Known Member

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    adding this to my list:D
     

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