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Old 04-12-2012, 04:11 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 04LTtacoma View Post
Not to thread jack, but does anyone have the moog outer tie rods?
yea they are nice and come with the zerks
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Old 04-12-2012, 04:11 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 186000mps View Post
8mm zerks for the Moogs
thank you sir
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Old 04-12-2012, 04:21 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Cr250jumper View Post
Its a lot easier if you jack up the truck by the arm, then put the crow bar under the tire and pry up. The ball joint will lift up and down in the arm if its loose. No need to wedge anything in your $2400 LCA's
OEM LCAs are $2400?
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Old 04-12-2012, 04:23 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KenLyns View Post
OEM LCAs are $2400?
No, the person I quoted does not have OEM LCA's, but nice try
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Old 05-21-2012, 05:20 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 04LTtacoma View Post
Go with the Moog lower ball joints. I just recently replaced my lower ball joints with Moog. They hold up to a lot of abuse and the ball joints are greasable..
Anyone every used Sankei ball joints? After all my reading I am most likely going to buy Moog upper and lower ball joints, order tonight so I can have then by this weekend to install.

With the Moog's do you have to grease them before install? When you fill from the zerk do you have to worry about over filling, or does the excess flow out somewhere?

I'm also going with Energy Suspension Poly control arm bushings for my stock LCA/UCA's. Thinking about drilling/tapping the LCA/UCA's while I'm at it and installing zerks for easy greasing later. Any opinions on this or seen anyone do it before? This is on a 1995.5 Tacoma w/225K miles.
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Old 05-21-2012, 05:24 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 04LTtacoma View Post
Not to thread jack, but does anyone have the moog outer tie rods?

I have them. Put them on when I changed out my lowers for moogs.
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Old 05-22-2012, 11:25 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hollywood0027 View Post
Anyone every used Sankei ball joints? After all my reading I am most likely going to buy Moog upper and lower ball joints, order tonight so I can have then by this weekend to install.

With the Moog's do you have to grease them before install? When you fill from the zerk do you have to worry about over filling, or does the excess flow out somewhere?

I'm also going with Energy Suspension Poly control arm bushings for my stock LCA/UCA's. Thinking about drilling/tapping the LCA/UCA's while I'm at it and installing zerks for easy greasing later. Any opinions on this or seen anyone do it before? This is on a 1995.5 Tacoma w/225K miles.

When you apply grease to your ball joint, you need to wait till you install it on your Taco. After installation, you apply your grease gun to the Zerk fitting and pump your handle once. Take your finger and push on the rubber casing protecting the ball joint and see if you can apply pressure and push in on the casing. If you can push the casing in a little bit apply another pump of grease from your grease gun. Push in again against the casing, now if you can't push in against the casing it is time to stop applying grease. The casing is full and does not need any more grease. If you apply too much grease and the casing blows out the excessive grease, you now have a hole for dirt to enter the ball joint. You won't kill the joint quickly, but you will have limited the life span of the ball joint.
The old days of applying grease till it squirts out was from a different time and a different design of ball joint. As long as you keep your ball joint casing whole and do not bust it by over greasing, dirt will not destroy the ball joint. Later on as time passes there will be a need to regrease the ball joint, just be careful. Good luck.
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Old 05-22-2012, 11:29 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ga tacoguy View Post
When you apply grease to your ball joint, you need to wait till you install it on your Taco. After installation, you apply your grease gun to the Zerk fitting and pump your handle once. Take your finger and push on the rubber casing protecting the ball joint and see if you can apply pressure and push in on the casing. If you can push the casing in a little bit apply another pump of grease from your grease gun. Push in again against the casing, now if you can't push in against the casing it is time to stop applying grease. The casing is full and does not need any more grease. If you apply too much grease and the casing blows out the excessive grease, you now have a hole for dirt to enter the ball joint. You won't kill the joint quickly, but you will have limited the life span of the ball joint.
The old days of applying grease till it squirts out was from a different time and a different design of ball joint. As long as you keep your ball joint casing whole and do not bust it by over greasing, dirt will not destroy the ball joint. Later on as time passes there will be a need to regrease the ball joint, just be careful. Good luck.
Moog ball joints have a "nipple" with a hole that the grease will come out when its full. Once excess grease is gone the nipple isnt under pressure and it closes itself so dirt doesnt go in
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Old 05-22-2012, 11:46 AM   #29
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Thank you for clarifying this for me. It used to be that all good suspension parts came with fitting and were made of good material by Americans, and you could trust the name on the box. Today, the Chinese have bought the good American names and brought in cheap junk to replace quality suspension pieces. I really do not who makes what anymore and who to trust when it comes to good suspension pieces.
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Old 05-23-2012, 10:24 AM   #30
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Thanks for the help. In the past I bought my parts from PartsGeek.com but after poor customer support for an incorrect part (supposed to be a direct fit cat, nowhere near close) I have started sourcing parts elsewhere. I got a full set of the new zerk MOOG's from advanced auto for just over $200, and if they don't work I can return them in person

I'm also installing the Energy Suspension poly control arm bushings, going to add zerks to my factory arms. I'll try it, if it works I'll write a how-to since I can't seem to find anyone who has done this before, only speculation that it is possible.
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Old 05-25-2012, 05:22 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 186000mps View Post
with zerk installed
This is sankei 555 part. Moog is having a lot of parts for our trucks manufactured by them including outer tie rod ends. 555 makes a ton of OEM parts on our trucks and the quality of these is pretty good. I got zerrks with a 45 degree to make greasing them while on the truck possible.

You could probably save money and just buy Sankei 555 in the first place.
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Old 05-25-2012, 09:40 PM   #33
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I got some MAS industries lower ball joints for like $25 ea. They're the same as Autozone or Advance has for $40 ea. Supposedly, there are not many ball joint manufacturers out there. Autozone does give a lifetime warranty though.
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Old 05-25-2012, 10:03 PM   #34
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sub ... think I may need sum ...just have to wait for sum $$$
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Old 06-13-2012, 03:56 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 186000mps View Post
8mm zerks for the Moogs
I actually found my Moog's to be 6mm for the zerks
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Old 06-14-2012, 10:29 AM   #36
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Moog ball joints and tie rod ends work great had on my last Tacoma going to put them on the one I have now
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Old 06-14-2012, 11:56 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cr250jumper View Post
Moog ball joints have a "nipple" with a hole that the grease will come out when its full. Once excess grease is gone the nipple isnt under pressure and it closes itself so dirt doesnt go in
He was referring to greasing until it comes out of the boot, not the nipple/zerk. All zerks are self sealing, if working properly.
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Old 06-14-2012, 11:58 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skytower View Post
He was referring to greasing until it comes out of the boot, not the nipple/zerk. All zerks are self sealing, if working properly.
I am talking about the boot too, I know what a zirk fitting is, thanks. The BOOT has a nipple on it as I described the 1st time. Look at the right side of the boot, do you see the nipple?

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Old 06-14-2012, 11:59 AM   #39
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It's also a good idea to replace all of your ball joints at one time. At least replace them in pairs. ie. both lowers. Both ball joints have seen roughly the same wear...
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