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Battery died like RIGHT NOW!

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Sign Guy, May 7, 2012.

  1. May 7, 2012 at 5:42 AM
    #1
    Sign Guy

    Sign Guy [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Brian
    Everett, WA
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    DrugRunner V6, 2wd
    Nice Rims, Big Tires, Carryboy Shell, Added Rosta Cruise Control & Ultraguage, 5100 Bilsteins All around
    I bought the truck a yr or so ago and it had a brand new battery (some budget brand but brand new). It has worked flawlessly until yesterday. I took the dog to the park and an hr later, I turn the key and nothing, no horn, light, nothing. I check fuses and everything looks great. Thank goodness for AAA. I give them a jingle and 1/2 hr later the guy comes out, we try a jump and fires right up. I drive home and park in front of the house, an hour later I go out and dead. I get online to check prices for a new one and nobody puts them on and those that do are crazy prices, like $90-$250. I hate going to all the stores to check on prices, any suggestions on decent prices for a new battery. I do not want a budget battery like the one they put in, but I don't want a super expensive one either. I'm going to sell it myself in a few months and it runs like a top and I don't want the new owner to have any issues for years - just the way I am.

    Thanks,
     
  2. May 7, 2012 at 5:45 AM
    #2
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 is going full "SANDWICH" Moderator

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    Some stuff. Not a lot, just some.
    Did you check for loose battery connections or corroded connections?
     
  3. May 7, 2012 at 5:58 AM
    #3
    LDurchy

    LDurchy Well-Known Member

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    When I buy a battery I check Consumer's Guide for ratings. When I buy, I tell them I want the biggest number of cranking amps I can close the hood over. I get serious winters here in Iowa so amps rule when its cold. My current battery is the red top Optima. It was installed before 2001. The claim to fame for the Optima series is they are less affected by high temps and vibration. It was a high dollar battery, but if you factor in no starter related tows from battery issues, it gets cheaper/year. Last year I had the dealer do a free amp. check while my pickup was in for an oil change. The reading was 938 amps.
     
  4. May 7, 2012 at 6:02 AM
    #4
    seksilumpia

    seksilumpia Well-Known Member

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    El Dorado Hills
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    Performance mods: TRD CAI, AFE throttle body spacer, Doug Thorley headers, TRD exhaust. Cosmetic mods: HID 10k head+3k fog lights, BHLM, T-rex 2 eyelids, billet grill (5 piece), 20% front window tint, 4% back window tint, tinted 3rd brake light, altezza tail lights, LED license plate lights, door skid protectors, slotted drilled rotors,plasti dip rims,painted rotor and drums. Interior mods: TRD seat covers, LED map and dome lights, 2 kicker 10' w/ 500 watt amp, pioneer door speakers,and Pioneer AVIC X930BT.
    i would recommend either auto zone or a red optima battery. Auto zone is cheap and have good power in their battery. Optima is a sealed battery,you can mount in any way, and has a little more power in them,but they do cost more
     
  5. May 7, 2012 at 6:33 AM
    #5
    RattleTractor

    RattleTractor Lube: It's the key to penetration.

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    VT
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    I have this battery as of 2 years ago. Have had zero problems so far (especially in VT winters), and it even survived 6 months of sitting while I lived in Australia. When I got home, I plugged her right back in and she started the truck right back up!

    It's also 1/3 cheaper than the optima.
     
  6. May 7, 2012 at 6:50 AM
    #6
    Yamaha Dave

    Yamaha Dave Well-Known Member

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    Everyone will tell you the brand battery they bought is the best. I personally have been using Duralast Gold batteries from Auto Zone for the last 10 years on several of my vehicles and they have held up GREAT.

    [​IMG]
     
  7. May 7, 2012 at 6:59 AM
    #7
    sirsaechao

    sirsaechao Well-Known Member

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    Optima went to shit...I'd recommend Duralast or Die Hard from Sears.
     
  8. May 7, 2012 at 7:02 AM
    #8
    Madjik_Man

    Madjik_Man The Rembrandt of Rattle Can

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    I'll have to look at what's in my truck because I've never changed it once since owning it (13 years).

    And I doubt the owner changed it within one year of its life.
     
  9. May 7, 2012 at 7:32 AM
    #9
    RattleTractor

    RattleTractor Lube: It's the key to penetration.

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    So true. I would say that the good brands are Interstate, Duralast, and Die Hard. Optima seems pretty good, but I have heard of theirs failing randomly so it appears to be hit or miss (more hit though). They are also quite expensive.
     
  10. May 7, 2012 at 7:37 AM
    #10
    Robertgeejr1

    Robertgeejr1 Well-Known Member

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    Aorora, Ill, yeah!
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    I have done all the hi-pro mods for a life time, since I got this truck at a great price, I will be happy with showroom new.
    hello, if you have a wet cell battery, have you checked the water level in it?
    and only use distilled water in it. sears and the duralast are good batteries, just keep your receipt as a back up.
    Now I don't agree with this, but my uncle has a welding shop, and a large old portable welder, he would sometime use, and he would get wal-mart batteries and yes since he was not running it a lot and they would die, he would take it back, (3 year no question warranty) and get a new one.
     
  11. May 7, 2012 at 7:38 AM
    #11
    Sign Guy

    Sign Guy [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the tips!
     
  12. May 7, 2012 at 7:46 AM
    #12
    Ihavataco98

    Ihavataco98 Well-Known Member

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    stinger batterys
     
  13. May 7, 2012 at 8:03 AM
    #13
    aznutx

    aznutx Well-Known Member

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    i've had optima red tops in all my vehicles and they working great, but i only got them because at the time i got a good deal over any other budget brand. my 2c
     
  14. May 7, 2012 at 7:06 PM
    #14
    RAT PRODUCTS

    RAT PRODUCTS Well-Known Member

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    Smokin with a smarty.
    X2, sounds to me like it's not actually the battery. Take the battery to auto zone and have it tested. If it was really dead it would take time to charge enough to jump it. Like a couple minutes instead of a couple seconds...
     
  15. May 8, 2012 at 5:36 AM
    #15
    Sign Guy

    Sign Guy [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Nice Rims, Big Tires, Carryboy Shell, Added Rosta Cruise Control & Ultraguage, 5100 Bilsteins All around
    I think it might be a wet cell so I'll check the fluid level.

    All connections are tighter than tight and I can't budge them.

    To bad I didn't check for a battery at O'reily's yesterday, I was looking for something else (in addition to the battery) and Barbi behind the counter through off my concentration :D I guess I'll have to go back;)
     
  16. May 8, 2012 at 5:42 AM
    #16
    magog45

    magog45 Well-Known Member

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    5100's all around, 2.75 inch lift, polyurethane body mounts, gibson exhaust, variation of the deckplate mod, intake resonators removed 285-75-16 goodyear AT
    I was having starting issues during the winter when it got cold and at first I thought it was the battery but finally the truck died at a set of lights and I had to push it out of the way. Turned out it was an alternator dying a slow death, still got the same battery but a new alternator and no problems all last winter.
     
  17. May 8, 2012 at 5:56 AM
    #17
    dexterdog

    dexterdog My pee parts itch

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    I wouldn't be so quick at changing out the battery. The issue may be in the charging system. I would get the battery tested first and then the alternator.
     
  18. May 8, 2012 at 4:59 PM
    #18
    LDurchy

    LDurchy Well-Known Member

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    Re:Optima batteries
    I have heard that the Optima batteries aren't built as well now as when I got mine approx 10 years ago. The 'Lets make it cheaper' bird strikes again.
    I must add that when mentioning the Optima to car dealerships, they do recognize it as a good battery. At least that is its current reputation.
    The reports here from you folks that care to dirty your hands on your car's maintenance is very important as a feedback. Greatly appreciated.
     

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