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Head Gasket and resurfacing the heads

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by XDEEDUBBX, May 9, 2012.

  1. May 9, 2012 at 6:52 PM
    #1
    XDEEDUBBX

    XDEEDUBBX [OP] Active Member

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    Bryan
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    Hello, I have a 96 tacoma V6 4X4 with 160k on the clock and I have the symptoms of a blown head gasket:

    Milky slime under the oil cap
    White smoke from tailpipe
    Cold idle runs like crap but after a couple minutes it seems to run normal
    Losing coolant

    So far i've replaced the radiator, the thermostat, coolant temperature sensor, spark plugs, and plug wires but the problem still persists, im losing coolant. I'm ok with changing out the head gasket myself but how important is it to have the heads resurfaced? How many of you guys replaced the head gaskets and resurfaced by machine or did not resurface it at all? Please help! Money is tight right now and I don't have $800-$1000 for costly repairs. Thanks in advance.

    Bryan
     
  2. May 9, 2012 at 6:58 PM
    #2
    steve o 77

    steve o 77 braaap

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    well you're going to have to first find out which head gasket is leaking.

    Also it is very important to get the head re surfaced since it is aluminum and is prone to warping.
     
  3. May 9, 2012 at 7:01 PM
    #3
    XDEEDUBBX

    XDEEDUBBX [OP] Active Member

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    K&N Filter, Custome Magnaflow Exhaust
    Thanks for the reply, i've done some searching on here and those that have replaced their head gaskets never say anything about getting the heads redecked or anything like that. Im also contemplating on using "Steel Seal". What d you think about that? It has gotten good reviews.

     
  4. May 9, 2012 at 7:06 PM
    #4
    Leggo

    Leggo slow is smooth, and smooth is fast.

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    I have done many gaskets over the years. Buy a high quality gasket and make sure both the head and the block are very clean before installation. Follow proper torque spec's and tightening pattern. If you think it is not a major leak,( IE: cracked head) and you have not overheated the engine, chances are you will be just fine only replacing the gasket. If you melted down, and it's running real bad. Then I would consider having the head planed. Also, I like to coat both sides of the head gasket with motor oil before installation. It helps the gasket lay flat when torquing the bolts. Lastly, I am not sure if the intake manifold has water jackets, maybe it's only an intake gasket?. Take a close look before removing the head. Good luck with everything!
     
  5. May 9, 2012 at 8:01 PM
    #5
    2000GTacoma

    2000GTacoma Well-Known Member

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    throttle body has a single water jacket running through it.
     
  6. May 9, 2012 at 10:48 PM
    #6
    WhatThePho?

    WhatThePho? Greg Graffin 2016

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    I would machine the head everytime you take it off.

    The head do warp just a bit everytime you loosen it. I've seen a lot of people changing their head gasket without machining the head and coming back to square one with a leak.

    Stay away from that steal seal bullshit. It's only meant for a quick fix and for you to drive home.
     
  7. May 9, 2012 at 10:50 PM
    #7
    XDEEDUBBX

    XDEEDUBBX [OP] Active Member

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    thanks for all the help guys. I will just let it sit on the sideline till I can muster up enough funds to get it fixed properly.
     
  8. May 9, 2012 at 10:51 PM
    #8
    WhatThePho?

    WhatThePho? Greg Graffin 2016

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    Also I know a shop that does the machining work in the Norwalk area, pretty good guys pm me if you want their number.

    Or look up the head exchange, I think they are in Hawaiian gardens or cylinder head exchange in slymar.
     
  9. May 10, 2012 at 12:47 AM
    #9
    XDEEDUBBX

    XDEEDUBBX [OP] Active Member

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    thanks pho, I will look into that..

    by the way, here's a pic of my nasty oil cap:

    e9716b9e_4266a6373e5b91d8395a6e6bfdc8a48de2c879a7.jpg
     
  10. May 10, 2012 at 12:49 AM
    #10
    Twistedfreedom

    Twistedfreedom welcome to the incredibuild

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    modded the F*ck out
    I'd also replace the studs while you're in there.
     
  11. May 10, 2012 at 1:42 AM
    #11
    WhatThePho?

    WhatThePho? Greg Graffin 2016

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    go with APR studs.
     
  12. May 10, 2012 at 9:41 AM
    #12
    steve o 77

    steve o 77 braaap

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    x2, always replace the studs.
     
  13. May 10, 2012 at 1:24 PM
    #13
    Leggo

    Leggo slow is smooth, and smooth is fast.

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    Kenwood HU,Infinity Kappa speakers (x4), Infinity reference tweeters(x2),10" Kicker sub, Box by Subthump, Infinty Five channel amp,DVD anytime bypass, DTRL Mod, Xtang trifecta, Fogs anytime Mod, Bed Mat,Westin running boards, Console vault, Maglite mod, Weathertechs,Autopage remote starter, Power tailgate lock, HID Bi Zenon, Hella Supertones,Rain guards,Rear leaf TSB,Steering shaft TSB, Fisher Homesteader plow, 886 reverse lights mod, Redline Hood struts, Hankook Dynapro ATM LT265/70R17, power sliding rear window, Auto dimming/on anytime Bed lights, Blue Sea fuse panel & 100amp Breaker, de- badged,Rear headrest's removed, imMrYo mirror relocation,Homeroshi grill
    Not a big fan of planing heads that have cams in them. I have heard about cam bearings failing after installing them. If the head warps when you unbolt it, won't it flatten out again when you bolt it back down?Not a problem if you have the head line bored for the cam journals after planing it. Just a thought.
     

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