AC help

Greetings everyone. I'm new to the forum b/c I just purchased my first Tacoma a few weeks back. It's an 04 SR5 double cab, 155k and found it 1 owner from an older gentleman, so it's pretty dang nice and I really am enjoying it. But, now it's already time for some Q and A. I need some AC help. Of course i've read through some posts, but they don't really address what I'm wondering.

The AC wasn't blowing super cool air when I bought it, so against my better judgment I went ahead and used a can of the A/C Pro charge in a bottle from the auto parts store. Well, this just made it worse and I can physically feel the truck "grunting" if you will, when the compressor kicks on/off. It does get cold, but only for seconds after several minutes.

So, I took it to a shop this morning. They hooked it up to the machine and I think it was reading 475 psi on the high side and I can't recall the low. I read on another post that it should be around 210/30, so i'm sure this isn't good. Anyhow, the shop said I need to replace the condenser because it's clogged (a hunch the guy said, really!) and might as well replace the expansion valve too they said. A little research this afternoon seems to suggest an expansion valve itself can cause this....so the big question to you guys is simply what to really start with and any other considerations. Thanks all in advance.

 

Well, the A/C works; that's good. Is there water hitting the road when it's on? If not the rubber drain pipe (under the hood on the passenger side sticking out of the firewall) is clogged and probably fillied the airbox with water. Under the dash on the passenger side behind the glove box remove the bolt on access cover. Have a bucket handy because a ton of water is going to come out. Drain the box then make sure the rubber drain pipe through the firewall to the engine compartment is clear. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8715uPbwXA&feature=player_detailpage

 

Before I pumped in the can of that AC pro stuff it dripped lots of water. However, I haven't noticed any water under it after it's parked (mostly b/c I'm miserable hot and running inside to AC), and I haven't looked for it. I'll check it out tomorrow though.

 

Open the hood, find the rubber hose on the passenger side firewall. Use a pipe cleaner or similar and stuck it up into the tube and perhaps you can unplug it enough to get the water flowing out and you should be good to go but i'd still like to get into the box under the dash and get it dried out. Good luck.

 

I checked the box out...nothing but a little dirt and a few pine needles. Is the expansion valve inside this box? If it is, to get the box out and change that valve, do the lines coming in through the fire wall need to be disconnected before I can pull that whole box out?

 

Don't remove the box. I'm sorry, I'm no help beyond what I've said.

 

Thanks Steves.

Anybody else have some ideas y'all wanna throw my way? Since it looks like its probably parts ordering time, where's the preferred places people are ordering these parts through?

 

Your pressures aren't necessarily going to be elevated due to a stuck (closed)* expansion valve or a restriction in the condenser- the majority of your refrigerant is going to back up in the condenser and your suction and discharge pressures are going to go down. However, you will have a high head pressure if you just overcharged the system.

I would flush the system and see if you can remove the restriction- the best thing for you to use is dry nitrogen if you can get your hands on it. You should be able to tell if it's a restriction based on if at any point the outlet of the condenser or liquid line piping is sweating or cold. Do NOT use water or air, you will contaminate the compressor oil.

 

As for the parts-

http://www.toyotapartsales.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=214074

 

Well, I took the truck by another shop today and had the AC system flushed since the other shop didn't do that, they just hooked it up to the machine and said the condenser and expansion valve was clogged, now give us $600 and we'll fix it. Anyhow, the flush brought the system back down into the proper pressure ranges and was blowing much colder, seemed almost normal to me. The mechanic was looking over the fan and thinks its a bad clutch fan that not pulling enough air over the condenser/radiator. I saw him hold a folded piece of paper into the blades and it would slow it down somewhat. So, if that is a legit way to test the fan clutch and it actually needs replaced, how hard are those to change out and whats the best brand?