Gas mileage improvements

I want to make my 98 V6 standard as fuel efficient as possible. Suggestions? Mods etc.

 

there are a lot of threads already on this if you just leave it stock it is about the best you can do. other wise add a full exhaust header systems and open the intake and and super charge it. realistically. not worth it. but sounds so cool runs better two

 

LOL!

Seriously....

The ONLY cost-effective fuel economy improvement is going to be driving with an egg taped to the bottom of your right foot.

Less aggressive street-type tires will help, but you won't gain enough to offset the $400+ in fuel savings over the life of the tires.

If you have to buy tires anyways, then yes... you can make choices that'll help, but it's not worth it to toss perfectly good tires in search of better mileage.

Basic engine tune-up. New plugs, new air filter, check the ignition and emissions system. Maintain oil every 5k using 5w30... heavier oils = more friction and more fuel burned. Maintain tire pressure near the sidewall rating.


Any "mods" that improve fuel economy that can be added were included at the factory. Anything beyond that is up to you.

Speeds over 60-65 will hammer fuel economy. Cruising at 80 vs cruising at 65 can make a 5mpg difference... trucks have the aerodynamics of a brick.

 

^^^^^^^
listen to what he is telling you. they have been selling "snake oil" in many differant shapes, sizes and prices to get a Miraculous Improvement in Milage
since rationing during WW2. If you find some old popular mechanics that were printed during Arab Oil embargo, 73-74 the ads are full of crap that will make that ford LTD get 20 miles per gallon.
Keep your engine tuned. a well maintained motor will last, and will treat you well.
I had never thrown a code but 2 months ago i replaced my 02 sensors, and they made a differance(with everything else I tuned up.)

 

Sounds good. I appreciate the help. Will check in on some other threads. Does removing the charcoal filter really help, or is it more trouble than its worth?

 

No noticeable difference in my 2.7 or my 4.7 Tundra.

 

Not tryin to be negative nancy but ya bought a truck. If you want mpg buy a car and park the truck

 

a guy how makes cold air intake did dino test and said there was no difference in hp with or without the carbon air filter
i left mine in

 

I'm with Rich and Robert -

Take a moment to visit CleanMPG.com to learn some driving techniques that can help you improve your MPGs. Some of the advanced techniques are risky and may be illegal, so do your research and remember that being alive might be more important than a slight fuel economy improvement.

Also browse the Mileage Logs and look up your vehicle configuration. There may be members there with your configuration and they are posting their numbers there. They are good rough estimates about what you might be able to achieve.

Good luck!

Kevin

 

Yes, cars tend to be better on fuel than trucks. But I think that improving FE on any vehicle is a good idea. If you have vehicle options at your disposal, an alternate vehicle might be the right choice. But if all you have is the truck, then fuel optimization through better vehicle maitenance and improved driving habits might be the right approach.

 

Agreed.

Many "hypermiling" procedures are flat out dangerous at worst, and extremely rude and inconsiderate to other motorists at best.

Driving by load rather than speed is one.
It's fine if you're the only vehicle on the road.
It's tolerable if you do it in the right lane and others who aren't afraid to waste fuel are able to freely pass.
It's a road-rage generator when traffic is heavier, trucks are in the right lane, you are in the next lane, and it is impossible to pass conveniently without slamming on the brakes to avoid hitting you, then flooring it after making the lane change to avoid getting hit by overtaking traffic.

In a metropolitan area, every gallon saved by a hypermiler results in 10 wasted plus frayed nerves and accidents behind them.
The greatest cause of accidents after drunk driving is not speed... it's speed differential. Speed differential creates a rubber band effect that ripples back.
You gain speed going down hill and slow going up.
The driver behind you responds to this, but he ends up slowing down while still on the downgrade... that ripples back and you end up with people braking at the crest of the previous hill.

 

I think it comes down to awareness and practicality of a technique. I drive offpeak on the way in and on the way home, so driving with FE in mind is less likely to annoy others. I also drive 5-8 MPHs over the posted speedlimit (dependent on the posted limit, but translates to 15-20% over the posted speedlimit). Inevitably, there are those out there that are impatient and willing to pick up speeding tickets. They are free to pass me where it is safe and legal to do so.

The other day, I was traveling 48 in a 40 MPH zone when a guy in a diesel Dodge came up to my rear bumper tooting his horn. While I was driving with load, I was above the posted speedlimit by 20%. His rage was his own. I continued my normal routine and he turned off onto a side road in less than .5 miles.

On highways, I drive around 60 MPH in a 65 zone provided I can freely use the slow lane. In traffic zones, I travel with the pack provided that I'm not more than 5 MPHs over the posted speedlimit. The trouble is that most folks are in a hurry to get someplace. The time that they save on the road is almost negligible, but they run the race to nowhere anyways and consume fuel in the process (as if normal). But, so long as folks don't endanger me and my family, I can turn a blind eye even though I think folks who speed should be equally cognizant about the others around them as the hypermilers.

 

Agreed 100%.

It does go both ways, and yes, the speed limit is indeed the limit, not the required speed, but of course it is socially acceptable to travel at or slightly above the limit and we need to be aware of that.

 

And to keep in mind, there are posted minimum limits on federal highways. I don't think that I'd ever consider driving at them though. Doing 40 MPH legally on a highway were others are doing 5 MPHs over the limit might lend to a 30 MPH differential. That would be scary in most respects!

 

Slow down on the highway and try to coast (not engine brake) down hills and up to red lights/stop signs during city driving, without pissing off the driver behind you. These techniques make a BIG difference.

Here's some data from my daily commute which is mostly freeway (it is extermely consistent and repeatable) using a calibrated Ultragauge:

60 MPH: 24 MPG
65 MPH: 21 MPG
80 MPH: 18 MPG

 

^good stuff. What do you mean by "engine brake"?

 

Engine braking is using the engine to slow you down, either by simply taking your foot off the gas or shifting to a lower gear.

Yes, it extends the life of your brakes, but it uses more gas than coasting and applying brakes. Brakes are a cheaper way to slow your vehicle.