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Help with the common problem of warped rotors.

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Old 07-05-2012, 05:26 PM   #1
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Help with the common problem of warped rotors.

I would like to know if anyone has fixed the problem of toyota trucks constantly warping rotors? I have known that this is a common problem of toyota trucks like mine, (2001 tacoma doublecab), and I have already replaced the rotors and brake pads three times over the last 4 years. It usually takes about a week or two for my new rotors to warp and it stays that way till I get sick and tired of it and replace them. Well, Im sick and tired of them again and would like a permanent fix. Money is of no concern for this project, besides of course, buying a new vehicle. Please help me out fixing this common problem of warping rotors once and for all. Thanks.
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Old 07-05-2012, 05:28 PM   #2
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a week or two?! that's insane. My brembos are doing excellent after 5000 miles.
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Old 07-05-2012, 05:38 PM   #3
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I think the most important thing is how you break them in.
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Old 07-05-2012, 05:42 PM   #5
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Are your rear brakes adjusted properly? Most warped rotors come from them being the only stopping force because the rears aren't doing anything.
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Old 07-05-2012, 05:44 PM   #6
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Subs for answers.

OP here's a few links for you completely unrelated to this topic. Welcome to the site.
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/sit...e-conduct.html

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/mot...otorcycle.html
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Old 07-05-2012, 05:44 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by svrider0021 View Post
I would like to know if anyone has fixed the problem of toyota trucks constantly warping rotors? I have known that this is a common problem of toyota trucks like mine, (2001 tacoma doublecab), and I have already replaced the rotors and brake pads three times over the last 4 years. It usually takes about a week or two for my new rotors to warp and it stays that way till I get sick and tired of it and replace them. Well, Im sick and tired of them again and would like a permanent fix. Money is of no concern for this project, besides of course, buying a new vehicle. Please help me out fixing this common problem of warping rotors once and for all. Thanks.
Are you doing a lot of down hill braking? Never heard of this. What state do you live in?
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Old 07-05-2012, 05:50 PM   #8
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As mentioned above, check to make sure your rear brakes are properly adjusted and HAND torque lugnuts to spec. (impact guns will usually make the nuts way too tight). What brands of pads and rotors have you tried?
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Old 07-05-2012, 06:00 PM   #9
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Ok. Torque nuts to 85ft/pds, and check back brakes. I will do the rear brakes first then. Any suggestions on brands for quality rotors and brakes? I live in Georgia so we do have hills, but nothing out of the norm. like The Rockies or anything. Thanks everyone for the quick replies.
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Old 07-05-2012, 06:02 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by svrider0021 View Post
Ok. Torque nuts to 85ft/pds, and check back brakes. I will do the rear brakes first then. Any suggestions on brands for quality rotors and brakes? I live in Georgia so we do have hills, but nothing out of the norm. like The Rockies or anything. Thanks everyone for the quick replies.

I use Toyota pads. Got 84k on my 08 with zero issues and I drive very aggressive.

Get new springs for the rear and drum pads. New springs are cheap and insure you have proper braking. Also rear drums should be re-surfaced
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Old 07-05-2012, 06:52 PM   #11
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My 1995 is still braking good on O.E pads and rotors. Bought the truck almost 2 years ago(maybe brakes had been changed with factory ones but I checked and they were still good).
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Old 07-05-2012, 07:05 PM   #12
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Where are you buying your rotors ? I would not get the factory rotors and I would get a well known name. It could be that the rotors that you are getting are not well made and are causing your problem. You may want to check your front calipers also, and the mounting hardware that goes with the calipers. Your choice of pad material may be affecting the rotors also, if the pad material is too aggressive to the rotor. Also if you have not changed the flexible hoses that go to the calipers, they may be holding pressure on the brakes and keeping the brakes on longer than you need them to hold. If you can answer some of these questions, your answers will guide us to helping you. Thanks, Good Luck.
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Old 07-05-2012, 07:40 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ga tacoguy View Post
Where are you buying your rotors ? I would not get the factory rotors and I would get a well known name. It could be that the rotors that you are getting are not well made and are causing your problem. You may want to check your front calipers also, and the mounting hardware that goes with the calipers. Your choice of pad material may be affecting the rotors also, if the pad material is too aggressive to the rotor. Also if you have not changed the flexible hoses that go to the calipers, they may be holding pressure on the brakes and keeping the brakes on longer than you need them to hold. If you can answer some of these questions, your answers will guide us to helping you. Thanks, Good Luck.
I think I am getting them from advanced auto. I will buy a set of rotors and a set of brake pads. i cant remember the brand. I have 205000 miles on my truck right now and have never replaced my brake caliper hoses, so if you think that could lead to it then I will replace them as well. Any suggestions on brands for rotors and calipers?
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Old 07-05-2012, 08:22 PM   #14
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i can give you some ideas,
I never use most of the standard stuff at the nationwide auto stores... its made so cheap.
It had been awhile since I did alot of repair work (health problems) but a few months ago I put on a new set of rotors and pads on a buddies newer xterra and I got the rayspestos professional line parts, from rockauto, and i will say I was very impressed with the quality in the parts. and i was proud of myself because it worked out very well. to me and its posted everywhere the first 20 miles or first full day of braking is so critical of getting everything to seat well, ( I printed of a note in red letters and taped it to the sun visor of her nissan) she replied with the finger.. but it is one important step. and that might not be it, all it takes is one wrong "slam on the brakes and make'em squeel" to warp rotors. hope this can help.
to be honest and I have ALWAYS used Mooge parts, but soon i am going to replace both inner and outer tie rods and then new ball joints and i am going to give rayspestos professional line a try.. and it has a great warranty.
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Old 07-05-2012, 08:23 PM   #15
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Is all about how hard you are on the brakes. Don't drag them down hills. Gear down. Do NOT "resurface" rotors. This does nothing. Of they're warped they're done for. They need to be replaced.
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Old 07-05-2012, 08:47 PM   #16
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Normally the rotors do not get warped it is the brake pad residue that is melted to the rotor that you are feeling. Do a google search if you don't believe me. Also you need to make sure the caliper pistons are working correctly. Break in the pads as recommended by the factory and don't use cheap pads.
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Old 07-05-2012, 09:04 PM   #18
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I replaced my factory pads with Hawk pads at 50k miles, had the factory rotors resurfaced, replaced my rubber brakelines with goodridge stainless braided lines, and bled my brakes with valvoline dot 3/4 synthetic fluid. I was hoping to get away with not having to buy new rotors, but they are warped now. Probably started within the first 2k miles of doing the brake job. Now that I'm looking to get new rotors I see that everyone recomends certain brands. In the past I have had good expiriences with the Duralast Gold line, Wagner, and Raybestos. Is there any other recomendations anyone has that the OP, myself, and others might consider?
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Old 07-05-2012, 10:00 PM   #20
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Ok, looks like I will get the rear drums replaced. Then change out my front hoses for goodridge SS lines, Raysbestos Professional grade rotors and ceramic pads, as well as putting in new brake fluid. I will then be crossing my fingers for a few weeks in hopes that this will be the end of my dash and steering wheel shaking into a million pieces. Thanks for all the help.
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