Automatic transmission fluid capacity?

Looking to drain and fill my 3.4L automatic and would like to know how much I need to buy. I was thinking 4 quarts should be plenty but I don't want to sell myself short. Can someone tell me? Is it recommended to drop the pan to do a drain and fill? If so where and what transmission kit should I buy that comes with a new gasket, filter and plug? Thanks.

 

I just drained the pan and replaced. Four quarts. I read that the filter is actually a screen and that the pan was a PIA to remove.
Randy

 

I did it yesterday. the pan is easy to remove. it's a PITA to put back on though! Would be much easier if you could find an intact gasket, and not have to use the "gasket in a tube" that toyota uses. But the OP didn't mention removing the pan. Even though, I think it's recommended.

I went by this procedure, even though the write up is for a 2nd gen, it's very similar on a 1st gen. But you will need all the oil. http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/68462-diy-full-flush-automatic-transmission.html

 

How many quarts for you?

 

I dropped my pan when I did mine and got almost 7 quarts. 4 quarts without dropping the pan.

 

Did you have to buy a gasket rebuild kit when you dropped your pan?

 

You can also get more out of the transmission, if you drive the truck up on ramps, to elevate the front end. I have never dropped the pan, when i changed the ATF, just drain and refill several times. I did it four times in two weeks, to change out the fluid.

 

In order to replace the filter (which should be done when you do the service anyway) You will need to remove the pan. Check with your local parts supplies for their kits. Many of the aftermarket companies offer a rubber replacement gasket to use in place of the "gasket in a tube" that Toyota has. I have done these services before without complaints. Depending on the model, the drain plug will drain out the just as much fluid as removing the pan. Look at the drain plug location. If it is flush with the bottom of the pan, then the loss of fluid will be the same between either a drain and fill or a pan removal.

 

I bought a new filter assembly and it came with a rubber gasket. Scraping the old gasket off the pan sucked. I used a lot of brake cleaner.

 

Nah, i looked at it when i had my pan off. the drain plug is higher than the bottom of the pan. kinda stupid. I pulled the plug, then dropped the pan, and was really surprised at how much was still in that thing.

 

Well I had water in my trans from being an idiot. So i just kept running quarts through until it was brand new. I went through like 8 quarts of gas station ATF, then i put through like 16 quarts of synthetic until every drop that came out of the radiator was as clear as the stuff that went in. Then I brought it up to temp, shifting through the gears, and checked the level. It was too low, so I added in 4 quarts of synthetic (and a thing of lucas no slip, but shhh rich and bamaboy don't like that) checking after each quart until it was between the minimum and maximum hot range. I've checked it 5 times since then after driving and on average it seems to be in the right spot. 3 times i've checked it, it was in the range, once under, once over.

So far, the only thing slightly worrying me is when i start the truck and shift from park to reverse, it like powers into gear. Like even with my foot firm on the brake and rocks the whole truck. Almost the same going into drive but not as bad. could that be that it's slightly overfilled? or could it be because i just greased the slip yokes and they're firmed up with grease?

 

If that plug is about an inch or two higher, then it is not your drain plug, that is your fill level plug most likely.

OK, I got your PM earlier and didn't put 2 and 2 together, so I didn't realize you were the one with water in your transmission. Harsh engagement into gear is most likely a result of a code, but Toyota and Nissan trucks are VERY sensitive to water in the transmission. Take it to have the codes scanned for first, then lets go from there.

 

What type of fluid do I need to buy? Toyota dealership told me my 02 doesn't take Toyota Type IV until after 04???

 

Dex III My 02 both when i had a taco trans and now with a 4runner trans are 4.5 qts per drain and refill.

 

It's confusing because most pages in the FSM say Dex II or III, like page pp-70 <-- these are also the official fill capacities FYI

But then it says T-IV elsewhere, like on page DI-462 (Scroll Down)

AND according to Bobs-the-oil-guy forum, T-IV and Dex III CANNOT be mixed


EDIT: Reading now that everyone pretty much agrees the FSM drain/fill number of 2 quarts is WRONG. Consensus is that it's more like 4-5. Point is, measure every drop that comes out and put that amount back in. one of many sources: http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1s...nsmission-fluid-dipstick-reading-inquiry.html

 

Yes, but the online fsm is for 03's with the all electronic trans. I believe that the 03+ have the type IV. I do know for an 02 tacoma it is dex III right from at toyota master mechanic of 20+ years.

 

I have not found any evidence to support your claim that the Aisin A340F in the 02 is different than the 03, but assuming you are right, it is still very misleading for the same FSM to require different types of oil on different pages. Ya feel me?

 

Agreed that there may be no difference in the trans.
Toyota was all over the place in their conversion from Dex to T-IV.... not unlike how they are today with the conversion from T-IV to WS (and of course, GM went to Dex-VI starting model year 2006).

But whether the trans is the same or not, you can't mix the fluids.
Back in the 70s and 80s, guys would run Type-F (Ford) or B&M "Quick Shift" in their TH350 and TH400s... worked great, nice tight shifts... but it required a complete fluid change, not just a pan drain/refill.


Short story... The transition to T-IV may be less a matter of a physical change to the trans itself and more something related to EPA or coinciding with a vehicle "facelift" like the 2003/2004 Rav-4 changes.
Personally, I just stick with what's printed on the dipstick.

 

So far, the only thing slightly worrying me is when i start the truck and shift from park to reverse, it like powers into gear. Like even with my foot firm on the brake and rocks the whole truck. Almost the same going into drive but not as bad. could that be that it's slightly overfilled? or could it be because i just greased the slip yokes and they're firmed up with grease?[/QUOTE]

I have a similar problem with my 02' 3.4l 4x4 A/T dbl. cab. The closest I've found to an answer is on a transmission thread that spoke about "harsh engagement" from N to D or N to R due to line pressure. I unfortunately don't know much more about diagnosis. Were you able to track down an answer/ solution?

 

I do have this problem too. Always when shifting form N to D or to R the "kick" is pretty harsh. Sometimes i heard a metal noise coming from the rear, what makes me think if a have a gearbox problem or something related to the driveshaft.