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Old 07-17-2012, 12:14 PM   #1
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Changing Clutch

about to start removing tranny from my 95 taco tomorrow and will take any advise given
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Old 07-17-2012, 12:16 PM   #2
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Have you ever done this before?
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Old 07-17-2012, 12:24 PM   #3
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Nope
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Old 07-17-2012, 12:24 PM   #4
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98tacoma27 is one of the sharper tools in the shed98tacoma27 is one of the sharper tools in the shed98tacoma27 is one of the sharper tools in the shed98tacoma27 is one of the sharper tools in the shed98tacoma27 is one of the sharper tools in the shed98tacoma27 is one of the sharper tools in the shed98tacoma27 is one of the sharper tools in the shed98tacoma27 is one of the sharper tools in the shed98tacoma27 is one of the sharper tools in the shed98tacoma27 is one of the sharper tools in the shed98tacoma27 is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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Here is the the FSM procedures including torque specs. I know it says for the 2003 but yours will be identical for the most part. However, instead of have a electronic speedo "cable" you will have an actual cable.

Your tranny will be a W59.

http://ncttora.com/fsm/2003/Repair_M...luuni/inst.pdf

http://ncttora.com/fsm/2003/Repair_M...tu4wd/remo.pdf
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Old 07-17-2012, 12:29 PM   #5
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Thanks the pics help
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Old 07-17-2012, 12:29 PM   #6
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Mark the prop shaft ends to the flanges on the rear diff, trannsfer case, and output shaft.

The tranny will take some muscle to get free from the engine block. You'll have to wiggle it.

There is no need to break the clutch slave cylinder line. The slave cylinder will move out of the way once it is removed from the tranny. NEVER PRESS THE CLUTCH PEDAL WHEN THE SLAVE CYLINDER IS REMOVED FROM THE TRANNY.

Disconnect the battery as you will have to remove the starter.

If I missed anything, I'm sure someone else will chime in.
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Old 07-17-2012, 06:42 PM   #7
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Take some pics as you're working if you can and let us know if you run into any issues.
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Old 07-18-2012, 06:41 AM   #8
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Here is a link that might be useful:

http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=149715

Pilot removal wise I used the grease and extension method. Worked just fine.

FSM I think says to unbolt the exhaust (could be remembering wrong). All you need to do is take the bracket/brace off. Total of three bolts and leave the exhaust system bolted together.

You can do the job with a standard jack, but I'd recommend renting (if you don't own) a transmission jack. I bought a decent one off of Amazon as I still came out ahead doing that compared to the big money the local shops and dealer wanted. The transmission jack allows you more control to get everything lined up and also provides more support to hold the tranmission from rolling off the jack and on you. BE CAREFUL!!! I also used ratchet tie down type straps to hold the transmission on the jack as I could get more tension on those than I could using the chain that comes with the jack.

Tie the slave stuff out of the way with string or large zip ties. Check the lines for cracks etc while you are there. Found I had a hose blistering open that I'd not noticed before.

As you are trying to get everything apart it may seem stuck (double check you have all the bolts out) and will take a bit of muscle to get it to fully release. Be careful of your steering rack as you pull everything out. You may really need to shake the xxxx out of it to get it to pop loose.

Some debate on various boards about replacing the rear main seal while you are there. Basically, if the rear main is leaking you have to go through all the same work as a clutch job to get to the rear main. I'd at least check it out and see if it is leaking.

Get your flywheel surfaced.

All I can think of at the moment. Not my favourite job, but expensive to have done.

Oh, one last thing. Keep your bolts sorted for where they go etc. If needed pop them in plastic bags and put a label on it so you know where they go. Helps while putting it back together. Torque everything to spec.
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