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Old 07-30-2012, 05:47 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magic View Post
what if he did all the preperation ( sanding/removeal of plastic pieces) then took it to a place for a cheaper paint job like 400-500 bucks then put all the pieces back on himself?
That would be OK if that person had the tools and knowledge on how to remove and prep.

I would of course not guarantee that the top coat would be in factory like condition after spraying as armatures have no idea what they are doing, they contaminate the surface with dirty hands,sand body oil into the existing finish, don't use the proper chemicals to clean the surface before sanding, the proper grit sand paper, that produces fish eye's, and just a poor finish.

Ya have to pay if you want to play, with quality base coat costing upward to $100 a pt, not to include the rest of the items needed why try to do it on the cheap if you don't know what you are doing!
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Old 07-30-2012, 07:10 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twfsa View Post
That would be OK if that person had the tools and knowledge on how to remove and prep.

I would of course not guarantee that the top coat would be in factory like condition after spraying as armatures have no idea what they are doing, they contaminate the surface with dirty hands,sand body oil into the existing finish, don't use the proper chemicals to clean the surface before sanding, the proper grit sand paper, that produces fish eye's, and just a poor finish.

Ya have to pay if you want to play, with quality base coat costing upward to $100 a pt, not to include the rest of the items needed why try to do it on the cheap if you don't know what you are doing!
^This, TWFSA is 100% correct. Being a body guy myself if you dont know what your doing just dont even mess with it and pay to have it done correct the first time and never have to mess with it again. It will actually save you money to do it right the first time rather then to have to fix it down the road because you or some hole in the wall shop messed it up.
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Old 07-30-2012, 08:32 AM   #23
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Quote wise a good job on the paint is probably as quoted above. Going to depend on the shop on just how much work they put in and their level/quality of work.

Also depends on your budget and what you can live with. I've painted some cars etc. and had good results. No pro by any means, but for me, if I wanted a good job and I was looking to keep the truck a while, I'd take it to a shop. Just look realistically at your expectations, budget, use the truck is going to have and how long you are going to keep the truck.

Just quality materials is going to cost you a bit. Paint has gone up and up and then there are the other components that make up a quality prep and paint job that end up pushing the costs up. Then the cost of quality spray guns, sanders, compressor, air dryer etc. etc.

If budget is low then you could always consider lower end resources like Macco or mobile repair/paint people. Just be prepared for the old "you get what you pay for" as being a POTENTIAL issue in quality of work and longevity. I had an old 4Runner that had pealing clear and rock chips in the hood. A mobile chap who was working on a neigbours car quoted me $130 to sand it down and repaint it.

I'd suggest researching your local shops and finding out who does quality work. Maybe talk to some local car clubs or owners at car shows to find out where they had paint done. Call the local dealer to see where they go (I find most dealers around here no longer have body/paint shops). Take the truck over to a few places you've decided on and have them do an estimate and really talk to the advisor to find out just how much work they are going to do. Some may remove the glass, want to paint the whole cab or may just paint up to the weatherstrip and call it good enough. Just depends on the quality and work ethic of the shop.

An example, had a Camry repaired. Rear bumper cover had been pulled due to hit and had make very slight ripples on the quarter panel due to the stress right where the bumper cover attaches. Ripples were just a 2 inch high by 10 inch long spot where it was slightly wavy along the quarter panel/bumper cover seam. In replacing the bumper cover and fixing those ripples the shop pulled the rear glass and ended up painting and burning in the clear up across the side part of the roof to the front, into the window channel where they pulled the back glass and painting the rear door and trunk lid in order to get a good blend. They did all that work to get the job to look right and be quality and not have any issues with the work later down the road. Granted, made their check bigger, but appreciated the work to get the car right. Thankfully I was not paying for it, but shows the work a quality shop will want to do to get the job right to them and not have issues later down the road.


Hope that helps.

Cheers
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Old 07-30-2012, 06:31 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BradleyScottETC View Post
Why would spending hours applying cheap, ugly spray on rubber coating be better than just having faded clearcoat?
hours? it would require laying a piece of tape down each side of the roof to created perfect lines, then spraying 3 layers with about 15 mins in between, and it will look like a mod rather than shitty faded paint. people paint their roofs black all the time, and it looks good.
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Old 07-30-2012, 06:32 PM   #25
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another option would be to clay bar it, and do a real good cut polish and wax, it would definitely bring some of it back to life, but i think it'd still be noticeable.
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Old 07-31-2012, 08:16 PM   #26
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im having the same issue on the roof of mine. i wouldnt even let maco paint my push mower, so they definitely wont get there hands or there terrible overspray on my truck
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