Timing belt time

307,000 miles and time to change the belt for the first time.

So I plan on replacing the belt, tensioner and waterpump. What else should I replace?

 

I've not had to do the timing belt yet, but have been saving these listings from suggestions on old posts I found when I first got the truck.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/180729034728?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

http://www.ebay.com/itm/190521450224?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

Will, if nothing else, give you an idea of parts for a more complete job. Not saying all are needed (like the accessory drive belts as and example), but I often buy everything.

The old "while I'm there I may as well replace" type thing.

Of course, then I'd be adding new radiator hoses as well lol. Hope that helps.

Cheers

 

Wow, only 200K miles overdue..

You might want to do the whole kit that includes the rollers too at that mileage.

 

Wow that's a ton of miles over. I changed mine at 137k and was worried every time I got in my truck to drive it before I changed it

 

I got all of my stuff shown in the first link Hillingdoner posted minus the crank and cam seals from RockAuto. I also got upper and lower radiator hose. Pretty decent price just need to get it done now. My truck is just about @ 160,000 miles now. I have seen that some people replace the crank bolt and some don't I am not planning on it though.

 

Thanks for the replies. Just ordered the kit. FYI Kingtoaster, your link is doesn't appear to work.

 

adding to the posts above, "while you are there"..... besides hoses, and I would get new clamps, get a new, "good" "made in Japan" thermostate, and I would do a rigorous flush on the coolant. I don't have to mention the heat down there, (been to dallas alot,) but my truck came from a ranch in far west texas, and I expected to do this so I did not mind, but I spent 2 days and 14 gallons really cleaning the system out, with that kind of miles, make sure your radiator is in good shape, I would be the shit for you to do all of this and have her apart, to have the rad. give the heave ho, after 6months or a year...mine was really dirty, red dust, and usual buildup so i did the chemical flush twice, and took my time, hell I figured if I forced a leak now I i would rather replace the rad. now than later esp. if it cracked on a hot day on the highway....... and without getting yelled at, you dont have to use the toyota coolant, you can get Zerex asian coolant at napa, walmart, and its so much easier on the checkbook.
and I will say, with the heat we are having this year the ol gal is running cool, and it shocked me the air even works.
good luck.

 

Need to do mine too

 

Is that whole kit really necessary, I have 107k miles and was just planning on doing the timing belt and water pump but are the other parts listed in that kit such as the thermostat and crank seals known for failing?

 

i did mine recently and did the timing belt, water pump, thermostat, cam seals, all 3 other belts all new hoses and both of the bearings in there i belive one is called the tensioning bearing and the other i dont know the name.
bought my kit on rockauto.com then bought the other belts at my local star auto parts. total time spent was about 2 days. hardest part i had was taking one of the big pulleys off. after that smooth sailing.
good luck

 

All the pieces in the kit are not a must if they are good on your truck. Just a matter of you'll have a lot of the same pieces apart to do the basic job so many feel doing preventative repair all in the same go advantageous.

I'd be inclined to replace the pieces from the kit just so I knew all was new and to hopefully preclude potential problems developing down the road.

 

Wow, that's a ton of miles over due. Makes me feel better about mine for sure. TBH,I never would have thought it would have gone that long. What happens if it breaks? Stuck on the road or does it destroy stuff?

 

Idlers... All of them.

Also the crank seal since your water pump has likely leaked all over it and crusted up like mine was at 150k.

 

non interference, so no internal damage. You might destroy the timing cover but not much else.

 

What's your trick for getting the crank seal out without dropping the pan (I haven't looked at the schematic yet). Do you put some screws in it and yank it out, then drive in the new one?

 

Im actually curious too, I left mine in there on the first change. I would imagine very careful use of a flat screw driver would do the trick. You just DO NOT want to scratch the crank.