To flush once more, or not. That is the question (A340F)

So..... i'm 50/50 here on if i should flush my auto trans once more or not. 3 weeks ago I got water in it and was looking at a strawberry milkshake situation. I dropped the pan, cleaned the magnets and screen, and then disconnected the return line from the radiator and methodically removed the milkshake 3 quarts at a time, each time adding 3 quarts through the dipstick. I put 8 quarts of gas station atf, then 16 quarts of synthetic. I originally used Valvoline synthetic, but at the end of the process I was low on the dipstick and I added a few quarts of Mobil 1 synthetic. I had a few transmission issues, and i brought it to the dealership, and they fixed it by adding a little more ATF, the quantity and exact type of ATF I am unsure of.

Now, in 2 days, i'll be pulling a 6x12 uhaul trailer 460 miles. I could drop the pan again, put in a new NAPA filter + gasket, and flush out the synthetic in there for 11 quarts of AMSOIL. That will run me about $200. At the moment, the transmission runs great, but it bothers me that there are 3 different brands of ATF in there. I did a lot of research and it turns out the 4runners had defective radiators that caused this strawberry milkshake water contamination issue a lot, and those who saved them ran like 60 quarts through. Overkill? Maybe... i don't know. Another benefit would be that i could check the magnets to see what ended up there after only 2.5k miles. If there is a lot of metal after such a short period then I know I can start shopping around for an R150f....


So.... if it aint broke don't fix it.... or should i bite the bullet and go for piece of mind? My biggest fear is that, even though i've done the flush before and im sure i could do it in 3-4 hours but if for somereason something goes wrong... im kinda fucked because the Uhaul is all reserved and i need to move into my new apartment.

Thoughts?

 

What does the stuff on the dipstick look like NOW?

If it's clear, don't sweat it.

How did the water get in in the first place? if it's a leaking cooler in the radiator, changing 1000 quarts of fluid won't fix it if the radiator part is still leaking.

As for 3 different brands, matters not a bit so long as they were all proper spec for the transmission. Quite possibly all came out of the same vat at the refinery before they went in to Brand X, Brand Y and Brand Z bottles.

 

X2

 

Stuff on the dipstick looks brand new. It got in through the breather when water went over it (deep crossing). I know the valvoline and mobil 1 were both dex III and T-IV spec. The dealership probably put in half a quart of standard toyota t-IV if i had to guess.

 

Any one else wanna throw in their ¢2?

 

Myself I would have Toyota do a flush,cause my luck I would trash the trans.

Some dealers have service special coupons that may help you out as far as the cost. Had mine flushed for $149 out the door.

Stay out of the water dude, it ain't fun when it bites your wallet in the ass.

 

Meh forget them. They tried to tell me my only option was a new transmission. They hadnt even checked the dipstick. I asked them to check the line pressure or the shift solenoids, they said they couldnt do any of that i have to go to a specialized trans shop.... sp i asked them to try adding or subtracting some oil, they added a little and it was cured.

Case in point, my local dealership is useless.

 

Water and clutch discs are incompatible. It causes them to fall apart. Flushing will not get the water out completely. The torque converter usually holds around 12qts. IIRC, our converters do not have a drain plug.
Anytime water gets into a transmission, a rebuild recommended. If you don't, your're risking a more serious failure than just tearing it apart to clean and replace clutches.