98 Tacoma 4cyl, mt, auto to manual hubs

Please confirm for me. New 98 Tacoma owner need clarification.
I want to convert from auto hubs to manual hubs to make certain 4wd helps in reverse when backing up in a bad situation.

I "believe" all i need replace is the bubs. No spindle, or other components. I believe ASIns are great but finding used cheap is impossible, so aftermarket hubs new should be $130 or so.

Please confirm or correct whether this is a simple hub swap.

I am getting confused by the things Yota has done over the years.
Again 1998 stock.

 

I have a 98' stock for now and I got the complete MileMarker set from Advanced Auto Parts for I think $160. Hope that helps.

 

Gotta swap the whole spindle.
You don't have Auto Hubs, you have ADD.

 

Yeah I wasn't 100% because mine came stock as manual, but with further research, most def.

 

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st-gen-tacomas/222037-manual-hub-conversion.html

 

thanks for the bad news. I have had many trucks, this is my forst experience with ADD.

Crap, must save more money now.

And allocate more time. Guess as stock I have to stay on hard roads or hope the hoses work and i never need back-up.

Will get locker in rear first, but gotta make the front lockable second.

(I had a 85 YOTA with twin ARB Air lockers, and knew I was spoiled).

 

Your ADD works fine in reverse. They are ADD and not auto hubs.

 

Dude TherealScuba, your truck is pretty damn sick, its like mine, only badass!

 

To me, it sounds like this will be just money and time wasted. Just FYI, ADD axles are 6mm bigger than manual ones. Which means they're stronger.

 

According to Toyota, the 98 came with optional manual hubs, like my 97. (which has factory manual hubs)

The only difference according to the service manual is the "Axle hub" which is different between the two. You could possibly just replace the "axle hub" and get a set of manual lockouts to go in the place of the factory one. Something to research at least. While you do have to get out of the truck to lock in the hubs, I usually just lock mine in before hitting the trails, then unlock them when the day is done. I personally prefer manual hubs.

 

I get it.

The benefit of converting to manual hubs WITH NEW SHAFTS is
1 - stopping the spin of the carrier in 2wd
2 - removing the air slider on the drivers side therefore only have air lockup on front shaft to worry about.

the cost is high if i must replace hubs, shafts, tubes, and spindle and I loose ABS brakes

probably costs me 1/3MPG to have front axle spinning.

Might be able to stop spinning of the carrier by changing only spindle on passenger side and 1 hub on passenger side. this is not confirmed to fit properly or work. (to investigate)

Maybe best time and money is spent placing locker in rear, and making certain stock components in front are working 100%, as designed.

 

You can convert simply by changing out the axle hub on each side, and then install a manual hub control on each side as well. Shouldn't be that expensive. And you should still be able to use your existing CV shaft. Toyota's service manual does not show a different part number on my listing for the CV shafts. They show the same shaft part number for the free-wheeling as well as non free-wheeling hubs.

 

Haha thanks man!

The CV shafts are most certainly different between ADD and manual hub.
The ADD shafts have splines on the end that spline into the hub. Manual hub shafts have splines, but the hubs don't.

See the following:

 

ok, verified on parts supplier. the shaft is different on the outboard side only, so you would need to replace the CV shaft as well, or just the outer joint. I stand corrected.