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Truck shakes when idling.

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Old 10-03-2012, 08:30 AM   #1
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Truck shakes when idling.

Hello everyone. So my truck has done this shimmy/shake thing in idle for a while. I have replaced plugs and cleaned tb. It does it worse when the a/c is on and truck it in idle. I don't really know what it could be. Maybe a vacuum leak? Not sure where to go. Besides from the shaking in idle the truck runs great.
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Old 10-03-2012, 08:33 AM   #2
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Notice the tach next time, where's it idling at? My car has a similar problem after some major engine work and I know that's its caused by the idler not being re-tuned.. Not actually a big issue other than that it causes the vehicle to feel rough at idle... May not be your problem but worth looking into!
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Old 10-03-2012, 08:40 AM   #3
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maybe fuel pump? my dads truck did this.. an maybe air filter
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Old 10-03-2012, 08:43 AM   #4
Yep
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Mine does the same thing
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Old 10-03-2012, 10:11 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NewRider View Post
Notice the tach next time, where's it idling at? My car has a similar problem after some major engine work and I know that's its caused by the idler not being re-tuned.. Not actually a big issue other than that it causes the vehicle to feel rough at idle... May not be your problem but worth looking into!
My idle with no ac is 680-710 rpm. With ac on it is 840-860 rpm. And what exactly is the idler?
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Old 10-03-2012, 10:19 AM   #6
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I'd have to look up the specs for the trucks but that sounds pretty low and would cause the engine to shake as if it was going to stall.

The idler is pretty much what it sounds like like, a computer that keeps the engine running at a correct minimum rpm while the vehicle isn't moving. If its not adjusted properly it can make the engine run fast or slow. In your case I'm guessing slow which causes the vehicle to shake when at rest.
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Old 10-03-2012, 10:21 AM   #7
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Why would a computer go out of tune. Never had any work done to truck.
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Old 10-03-2012, 10:28 AM   #8
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A vacuum leak is possible, but if it runs great everywhere above idle, it sounds like a throttle body or MAF sensor cleaning is in order. How many miles are on it, and has this cleaning ever been done before?
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Old 10-03-2012, 10:59 AM   #9
that was'nt a vitamin!!
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Shes cammin!! lol I loved how those old 70's fords and chevys had that rough idle that shook the bed side to side.
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Old 10-03-2012, 11:01 AM   #10
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how violent is the shaking? Mine has just a very slight shake at idle, but it is not constant. Just wondering if I should also be concerned. Mine idles at around 700 give or take
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Old 10-03-2012, 11:32 AM   #11
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Cammin? And the shake is not bad just feel it through the steering wheel and floor. It is like the motor just wobbles for a sec then hats better then wobbles again. And I have replace maf. And cleaned it once. I have 224 k on it and I have cleaned the tb only a little when I replaced my valve covers a while ago but just sprayed a bit of cleaner in it. It didn't look real dirty if I remember correctly.
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Old 10-03-2012, 11:34 AM   #12
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I guess I will clean the maf and tb tonight and see how she does. My truck isn't sputtering or anything just a wobble I can feel at idle
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Old 10-03-2012, 11:41 AM   #13
that was'nt a vitamin!!
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I was just messing with ya man, camming is when someone has a mild/larger cam in a engine and it makes it run at low rpm at idle and shake alot, not your problem though! I dunno what to say except check vacuum lines for leaks http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars...-a-vacuum-leak

I dunno if theres another way of doing this. I've yet to Seafoam my engine, you might look at some posts on here about that https://www.google.com/#hl=en&safe=o...w=1024&bih=653
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Old 10-03-2012, 11:41 AM   #14
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hows the motor mounts?
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Old 10-03-2012, 11:49 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blakes09 View Post
hows the motor mounts?
Well they are 224,000 miles old but still solid. No deterioration. I checked those a while ago thinking that was the problem
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Old 10-03-2012, 11:52 AM   #16
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pull the idle air control valve and clean it well. its on the throttle body
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Old 10-03-2012, 11:56 AM   #17
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My truck shakes at idle too
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Old 10-03-2012, 12:37 PM   #18
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^^^ What 2000GTacoma said. The "Idler" mentioned earlier is actually more commonly called the IAC or Idle Air Control valve. Before you cleaned your throttle body the computer (ECM) had calculated the correct position for the IAC based on a dirty throttle body. When you clean the throttle body, it will sometimes fail to correct itself the other direction, and can cause a rough idle. The easiest way to force the computer to relearn is to wipe the memory. you can do this two ways: disconnect the negative(ground) terminal from the battery and allow 30 minutes for the capacitors in the vehicle to discharge, or if you have access to a quality scan tool you can go into the system that way and force a re-learn.
Some people suggest to disconnect the battery and short the terminals together. This is not a good idea on late-model vehicles. The reason for this is because these vehicles have a DERM module that is part of the airbag system. This DERM has a built in, non-rechargeable battery. There have been cases where shorting the battery terminals have discharged the DERM's internal battery. A discharged DERM battery can cause a failure of the airbags deploying in certain types of crashes. So never use this cable-shorting method to discharge the battery.
After you have allowed the systems to clear out their memory, you can reconnect the battery terminal and restart the truck (It may stall once or twice when you first start it up) after the truck has started, let it idle in park or neutral with the AC off for 60 seconds. After that, turn on the AC and let it idle an additional 60 seconds before putting it in gear. This normally will learn the IAC new position the fastest.
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Old 10-03-2012, 12:48 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2000GTacoma View Post
pull the idle air control valve and clean it well. its on the throttle body
Ok so does the iacv come off the tb?
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Old 10-03-2012, 12:49 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BamaToy1997 View Post
^^^ What 2000GTacoma said. The "Idler" mentioned earlier is actually more commonly called the IAC or Idle Air Control valve. Before you cleaned your throttle body the computer (ECM) had calculated the correct position for the IAC based on a dirty throttle body. When you clean the throttle body, it will sometimes fail to correct itself the other direction, and can cause a rough idle. The easiest way to force the computer to relearn is to wipe the memory. you can do this two ways: disconnect the negative(ground) terminal from the battery and allow 30 minutes for the capacitors in the vehicle to discharge, or if you have access to a quality scan tool you can go into the system that way and force a re-learn.
Some people suggest to disconnect the battery and short the terminals together. This is not a good idea on late-model vehicles. The reason for this is because these vehicles have a DERM module that is part of the airbag system. This DERM has a built in, non-rechargeable battery. There have been cases where shorting the battery terminals have discharged the DERM's internal battery. A discharged DERM battery can cause a failure of the airbags deploying in certain types of crashes. So never use this cable-shorting method to discharge the battery.
After you have allowed the systems to clear out their memory, you can reconnect the battery terminal and restart the truck (It may stall once or twice when you first start it up) after the truck has started, let it idle in park or neutral with the AC off for 60 seconds. After that, turn on the AC and let it idle an additional 60 seconds before putting it in gear. This normally will learn the IAC new position the fastest.
Whoa thanks for the info. Will do this too.
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