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Check engine light question

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Lhodges12, Oct 23, 2012.

  1. Oct 23, 2012 at 11:16 PM
    #1
    Lhodges12

    Lhodges12 [OP] Member

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    About 5 years back I pulled the cats out from my 2004 Toyota. Left o2 sensor on but built a whole new exhaust. Specifically glass pack mid pipe then two flow master 40s at the y in rear. Anyways I'm pulling out cluster to change color from amber to red and didn't know if there was a way to bypass, reset, or disable the check engine light. I know the light only stays on because of a bad reading from o2 sensor, but I don't know if there is anyway of turning the light off. I wanted to ask before I did the cluster mod in case there was a way to do it behind the cluster. Any suggestions or thoughts?
     
  2. Oct 24, 2012 at 11:42 AM
    #2
    DriverSound

    DriverSound Señor Member

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    You can pull the bulb out of the cluster but that's not really a smart thing to do. To reset the light, disconnect your battery cable for about 15 minutes. You should really have it read so you know exactly why it's lit up.
     
  3. Oct 24, 2012 at 5:31 PM
    #3
    Lhodges12

    Lhodges12 [OP] Member

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    thanks man, yeah i had it checked and i forgot the code but toyota said it was the reading from my sensor was throwing it off. they recommended i have them replace cats (not covered in warranty) haha. but they said that was the only way and i know there is a way there has to be, i think they just didnt tell me because they wanted me to pay them. but now since ill have it all pulled it be nice to find a way to fix it now.
     
  4. Oct 24, 2012 at 7:08 PM
    #4
    Dick4x4

    Dick4x4 Well-Known Member

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    In the car tuning market they often put what they call a test pipe that fools the sensor reading. It works by moving the sensor away from the exaust flow and for some reasons the sensor sends a signal that everythings is ok and you won't have check engine light.

    HEre is a random picture of a test pipe that replace the cath and the most important for you is the kind of tube that is welded on it on which you mount the second O2 sensor.



    [​IMG]


    From my point of view, removing a cat is pointless, smells shit, takes more gas ans in more case decrase performance.

    Mine was crapped on my tacoma and I went with a small magnaflow high flow model that I bought at my local Canadian Tire... I paid 75$ for it and installed it without too much problems considering the age of my exaust line.

    Looks like that:
    [​IMG]

    I'm quite happy with it, no bad smells, no check engine... and the impressiom that I did my part for the environment! ;)

    Good luck
     
  5. Oct 24, 2012 at 11:00 PM
    #5
    Lhodges12

    Lhodges12 [OP] Member

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    Thanks for man ill have to look into that never even knew there was such a thing as a test pipe. In my defense I literally took about a year and a half of experimenting with my exhaust. I hate the common toyota whine you here every truck that has a exhaust on it. I wanted mine different and started with two flow masters in rear, then wanted it louder because it barely made sound. So I removed the cats and good god I couldn't think with all that noise and so I started asking around and everyone had similar set ups still with cats so I figured I try a cheaper alternative and welded in a glass pack mid pipe just behind sensor. Now she really has a distinct sound and people commonly mistake it for a 6cyl. As for the shit smell it really smells no worse than a four wheeler with my truck Hahahahaha and you got to love how steam rolls out the pipes up the side and all across the ground on a cold start on a winter morning!! Is there anything special abou the test pipe. I've done all my exhaust work myself and is it simply a pipe with a extended piece on it? Like could I build on myself?
     
  6. Oct 24, 2012 at 11:18 PM
    #6
    the.sight.picture

    the.sight.picture Wishes he was in the woods.

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    I just used spark plug non foulers to space out my o2 sensors. They may make URD 02 sim for your truck. I dont know about 1st gens
     
  7. Oct 25, 2012 at 12:42 AM
    #7
    Lhodges12

    Lhodges12 [OP] Member

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    So I'm guessing the only way I can see that working is to drill one non fouler out so the whole sensor will fit, and screw o2 sensor in the back side of it then screw the external threaded end of the drilled out non fouler into the internal of another non fouler? And then screw that one back into pipe where existing threads are in exhaust?
     
  8. Oct 25, 2012 at 1:02 AM
    #8
    the.sight.picture

    the.sight.picture Wishes he was in the woods.

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    Yep. Exactly. Make sure to use anti sieze on the end going into the exaust though. :D


    You will need a 1/2 inch titanium bit
     
  9. Oct 25, 2012 at 8:21 AM
    #9
    Lhodges12

    Lhodges12 [OP] Member

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    Awesome man thank you ill let you know how it does.
     
  10. Oct 25, 2012 at 2:07 PM
    #10
    Lhodges12

    Lhodges12 [OP] Member

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    And I do this to which sensor first or second/rear?
     
  11. Oct 25, 2012 at 2:54 PM
    #11
    Lhodges12

    Lhodges12 [OP] Member

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    Okay, both sensors are not screw in, I know I need to do it to the rear sensor. But the problem is the sensor mounts to two extruding bolts from exhaust pipe. So idk of I can use a spark plug non fouler, but idk so I need help!!!
     
  12. Oct 25, 2012 at 10:21 PM
    #12
    the.sight.picture

    the.sight.picture Wishes he was in the woods.

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    Check out my build thread (Beginning of Money Pit)
    Can you post a picture of it for me?

    I know it will work on a 2nd gen. Should also be fine on a 1st gen.

    You only want to put it on the downstream 02 sensor.


    Another way you could do it is tape tin foil around the sensor, then tape it to the frame:confused:

    but then you have a hole in your exhaust.
     
  13. Oct 25, 2012 at 11:41 PM
    #13
    Lhodges12

    Lhodges12 [OP] Member

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    yeah, ill take some pictures tomorrow of it and show problem better.
     
  14. Oct 25, 2012 at 11:45 PM
    #14
    the.sight.picture

    the.sight.picture Wishes he was in the woods.

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    ok. Yeah no prob. Hopefully we can figure this out
     
  15. Oct 26, 2012 at 8:31 AM
    #15
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 Wheel Bearing Master

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    The only way for a shop to LEGALLY turn off your check engine light is to fix the failure properly. No legitimate shop is going to risk violating federal law to rig a check engine light. You, as an owner, can chose to remove your bulb for the CEL, but if a shop does, it is again violating federal law. So no, the shop was not trying to just take your money. They were trying to fix your truck the right way.
     
  16. Oct 27, 2012 at 2:41 AM
    #16
    the.sight.picture

    the.sight.picture Wishes he was in the woods.

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    Hey OP, Post some pictures up when you can
     
  17. Oct 28, 2012 at 7:29 AM
    #17
    Dick4x4

    Dick4x4 Well-Known Member

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    He removes his cat, so fixing the trouble is just putting it back.


    Important that your first sensor still be plugged like the stock configuration or so. It makes your engine works efficiently.

    The pipe should be installled only on the second sensor.
     

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