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Surging/Thrusting Problem Under Acceleration

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Old 01-03-2013, 01:45 AM   #41
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Dumb question have you switched they gas your using? (company/grade)
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Old 01-03-2013, 01:54 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by TacomaG26 View Post
Dumb question have you switched they gas your using? (company/grade)
I honestly don't think that would cause the root of his problem. Even if he was using shitty grocery store brand gas they all get their crap from the place. The only difference starts with what additives they throw into their stuff after the fact they obtain their gas (Chevron using their "techron," shell using their "nitrogen enriched" fuel) it's all still from the same guy. I think that would be the last place to look. Especially him living in Tahoe, the computer in every car is leaning the shit out of the gas hence that "fantastic Tahoe gas."
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Old 01-03-2013, 02:06 AM   #43
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I'm betting it's a fuel problem, like others have said check your fuel pressure, doubt it's the injectors, it sounds like a problem with fuel delivery
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Old 01-03-2013, 02:30 AM   #44
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Gotta be a MAF issue I think. Although wouldn't that throw a code??

D you not have an A/F gauge? That'll instantly tell you if it's fuel problems. You should have one btw for running a 7th injector kit ad e URD pulley. Would be monitored closely.

Don't just wpswap in injectors. Take all6 to an auto store like car quest and have them test them they should be able to tell you if you have a faulty one.

But it doesn't sound really like a fuel issue..disabling the URD kit would have made that much worse and more apprent.

Tim could be a possibility if just one of the cams got off..it that would be way odd..worth checking though I guess. 5vz is a non interference engine so if by some weird chance you did jump a tooth(my guess would be intake side :notsure) it wouldn't really throw a code and you wouldn't really be able to tell right away.


So...

Fuel pump
A/F ratio
MAF sensor
Timing
Coil packs(maybe try swapping those around?)

That's what I'd be checking now..

Oh..and..ya know..you could be a pal and send me the SC..ill test it for you..make sure it's umm..working...
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Old 01-03-2013, 02:37 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 12TRDTacoma View Post
Shit dude. I hope you are getting some progress on this beast. Just looking at the list of everything you have done to it for replacement parts we would call that in the auto repair world, a "shotgun" lol.

Honestly just thinking about the fact that the moment you pulled off the supercharger and the problem got better would lead me to believe you are having a fuel delivery problem. Which would send me straight to the filter and the pump. Next time something like this happens, I highly suggest checking for sufficient spark and proper fuel pressure first before you go any further. I wish you the best of luck if you haven't already fixed the problem.

One more thought process to think about:

Put everything back together, take it down to your local emissions inspection station and have them give you some manual readings of the vehicle. Any drivability issues you are having with the rig will rear its ugly head on there, from there I can assist you with pointing you in the right direction of what you should check that may be causing your issues.
Reading before the cats could give him something to go off of, maybe.
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Old 01-03-2013, 07:07 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jberry813 View Post
Yeah, despite how damn annoyed I am with the taco right now, admittedly I LOL'd when I saw them.



I'm inclined to agree, but it just seems weird. Fuel pump is less than 2 years old. I'm not sure how I can really test fuel pressure short of going out and buying one of those in-line pressure gauge thingys.

I still have my old fuel pump, so worst comes to worst I can burn thru the gas I have in my tank and drop the damn thing again and swap in the old pump. This would be the 3rd time dropping the tank.

As for parts, I just want to start swapping shit to see if anything fixes the problems. Parts high on my list are fuel pressure regulator, MAF, and coils.
You mentioned cost of a regulator, and not wanting to spend a lot of money. A fuel pressure test kit can be bought for much less than a regulator, and that way you can test your entire fuel system to either find a fault, or rule it out without replacing ANY parts. My suggestion would be to get the proper diagnostic tools. With the small scanner you have that connects to your laptop and a fuel pressure gauge, you will most likely be able to find your problem right there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by maxamillion2345 View Post
FWIW Jason, even if you have the correct resistance for a particular sensor doesn't mean that it's functioning properly. You about need a lab scope or a "known good part". Double check all your grounds for the hell of it as well.

Also, when I got my air filter wet, it was doing what I imagine to be the exact same surge you have under agressive throttle input. I'd really look into that MAF.
VERY good point brought up here. The sensor can be fine, but if there is a problem with what the sensor is reading, then a good sensor still has a bad signal. Scope is really the only way to know for sure unfortunately when it comes to sensor output.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jberry813 View Post
I lit my Miata on fire doing that....also chasing a vacuum leak.
That is why you should always use a propane torch (unlit) to find vacuum leaks around the intake. It is a much safer option.

Just my opinion here...
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Old 01-03-2013, 07:59 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BamaToy1997 View Post
VERY good point brought up here. The sensor can be fine, but if there is a problem with what the sensor is reading, then a good sensor still has a bad signal. Scope is really the only way to know for sure unfortunately when it comes to sensor output.


That is why you should always use a propane torch (unlit) to find vacuum leaks around the intake. It is a much safer option.

Just my opinion here...
Yes and the characteristic of the sensor can be swayed by temperature too, even though it may behave within spec at room temperature, at 200*, it may not.

I would bet on a vacuum leak. have you checked your pcv system?

Does it have a MAP sensor?

your engine has knock sensors right, thats what makes it pull timing?
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Old 01-03-2013, 09:10 AM   #48
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I would post this up at yotatech.com
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Old 01-03-2013, 09:28 AM   #49
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It's funny, I've had a similar "hesitation" in the past with my Taco. It was primarily in wet conditions here in South Florida when it was raining or I was driving through puddles. I found this thread regarding another member who has a similar situation also. http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/toy...esitation.html

Don't know if there's anything there that can help, but it's worth the read...hope you get yours figured out!

And mine hasn't done it since "rainy season" here in South Florida...which is the Summer, so I'll wait til next time around to try to troubleshoot it again.
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Old 01-03-2013, 10:09 AM   #50
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heres my 2 cents old man. find somebody with a good afm to swap, pull the injectors and have them tested, buy a guage to test the fuel pressure( it will come in handy another day) and double check your grounds and elec connectors(90+% of elec problems are the connections)....sure sounds like something the afm would cause though...good luck and i know youll track it down eventually
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Old 01-03-2013, 10:42 AM   #51
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My truck had the same problem about a year ago. It just ended up being that there was some residue on the MAF that required carb clean and a Qtip to get off. I ended up scrubbing good because I figured I was going to replace it anyways.

If that doesn't work I would also contact Gadget (URD) and see his thoughts. Maybe a problem in the calibrator for the 7th injector?
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Old 01-03-2013, 11:12 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxamillion2345 View Post
Reading before the cats could give him something to go off of, maybe.
Before or after readings wouldn't make a difference.

Quote:
Originally Posted by disc0monkey View Post
Yes and the characteristic of the sensor can be swayed by temperature too, even though it may behave within spec at room temperature, at 200*, it may not.

I would bet on a vacuum leak. have you checked your pcv system?

Does it have a MAP sensor?

your engine has knock sensors right, thats what makes it pull timing?
Quote:
Originally Posted by dirty dangler View Post
heres my 2 cents old man. find somebody with a good afm to swap, pull the injectors and have them tested, buy a guage to test the fuel pressure( it will come in handy another day) and double check your grounds and elec connectors(90+% of elec problems are the connections)....sure sounds like something the afm would cause though...good luck and i know youll track it down eventually
Quote:
Originally Posted by atvlifestyle View Post
My truck had the same problem about a year ago. It just ended up being that there was some residue on the MAF that required carb clean and a Qtip to get off. I ended up scrubbing good because I figured I was going to replace it anyways.

If that doesn't work I would also contact Gadget (URD) and see his thoughts. Maybe a problem in the calibrator for the 7th injector?
Everyone else do themselves and him a favor and stop suggesting blindly what parts could be bad until he could supply us readings and measurements of emissions. You are only encouraging him to continue his "shotgun" journey of the vehicle. What we are trying to do is make his diagnosis of the vehicle quick and direct as possible. Sending him in 5 different directions is only going to continue to cause him to waste his time. Better off testing it correctly then taking the next step from there. Just my suggestion, and no I'm not trying to be a jerk, sorry If I am coming off as one though.
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Old 01-03-2013, 11:12 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atvlifestyle View Post
My truck had the same problem about a year ago. It just ended up being that there was some residue on the MAF that required carb clean and a Qtip to get off. I ended up scrubbing good because I figured I was going to replace it anyways.

If that doesn't work I would also contact Gadget (URD) and see his thoughts. Maybe a problem in the calibrator for the 7th injector?
Most definitely can be but a dirty maf is the same effect as a vacuum leak. It's unmetered air entering the cylinders.

He said he cleaned it already
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Old 01-03-2013, 11:20 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 12TRDTacoma View Post
Before or after readings wouldn't make a difference.
Maybe you should explain this for me... explain why cats don't affect exhaust readings?
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Old 01-03-2013, 11:24 AM   #55
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OP, have you read the thread below about hesitation/surging? People have had success with replacing the TPS even though they thought it was good.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/toy...esitation.html
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Old 01-03-2013, 11:26 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxamillion2345 View Post
Maybe you should explain this for me... explain why cats don't affect exhaust readings?
Because regardless of the fact that it might be changing exhaust readings it only does it correctly when the vehicle is running at correct AFR. In this case he either dumping gas or running too lean one or the other so readings will be askewed period. To check before cat readings would only be further wasting time. If he is running lean the cats nox reduction bed is deemed useless at the moment because the engine is pumping too much oxygen through and if he is running rich the cat is deemed useless as well because it can only control so much fuel coming through. Either situation (lean or rich) will quickly rear its head out just by shoving the sniffer probe up the tailpipe, given his current running condition.

Many techs who recommend cats to pass smog without the cats being legitimately bad are only putting a band aid upon the problem because several months down the road or sooner, the issue will rear its ugly head again. To ensure correct exhaust readings you must first correct the running AFR of the engine. Only then will the cats begin to work correctly, if they haven't been jacked up too bad that is.

We need to get to the root of his issues as quickly and efficiently as possible and taking extra unnecessary steps only will further slow down this process.
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Old 01-03-2013, 11:33 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DriverSound View Post
OP, have you read the thread below about hesitation/surging? People have had success with replacing the TPS even though they thought it was good.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/toy...esitation.html
If this so being the case what he needs to do is put a graphing meter to that TPS and ensure that there are not any dead spots coming from the sensor as someone steps on the pedal slowly.
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Old 01-03-2013, 11:38 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 12TRDTacoma View Post
Before or after readings wouldn't make a difference.







Everyone else do themselves and him a favor and stop suggesting blindly what parts could be bad until he could supply us readings and measurements of emissions. You are only encouraging him to continue his "shotgun" journey of the vehicle. What we are trying to do is make his diagnosis of the vehicle quick and direct as possible. Sending him in 5 different directions is only going to continue to cause him to waste his time. Better off testing it correctly then taking the next step from there. Just my suggestion, and no I'm not trying to be a jerk, sorry If I am coming off as one though.
the engine is already torn apart so why not check the easy stuff while your in there. I agree with what you're getting at if the engine hadn't been previously taken apart.
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Old 01-03-2013, 11:43 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirty dangler View Post
the engine is already torn apart so why not check the easy stuff while your in there. I agree with what you're getting at if the engine hadn't been previously taken apart.
The AFM can be pulled off at any given moment. As far as injectors and all that is concerned, I agree about that, however, I wouldn't just replace them though and getting them tested is something expensive is it not? I could be wrong, but my point is not to spend money and extra energy on what is not broken until he finds what is broken. Even if the stuff is easy to reach right now, unless he has money to burn, I wouldn't do it. I am just trying to save him extra money and heartache is all.
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Old 01-03-2013, 11:48 AM   #60
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Location: Wyoming/St. Louis
Age: 23
Gender: Male
Posts: 47,036
Blackdawg's Tacoma Gallery
Quote:
Originally Posted by dirty dangler View Post
the engine is already torn apart so why not check the easy stuff while your in there. I agree with what you're getting at if the engine hadn't been previously taken apart.
This.

He has it tore apart. Test the stuff he can while it's apart.

Jason isn't an idiot either. He knows his way around the truck probably better then anyone in here posting from all the shit he has done. He was looking for people with a similar situation more so the a diagnostics guide I'd guess seeing as how he probably knows how to do that.

Now it's time to and see what he has to report back.
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