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3.4l TRD Supercharger rebuild

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Old 08-22-2013, 11:58 AM   #61
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The rear needle bearings come pre-lubed if you get them from Rollingperformance.com

I really can't say enough good things about this company. An excellent source for rebuild parts and excellent people to deal with.
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Old 08-27-2013, 12:15 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cwieland View Post
Am I missing something? after sucking out what you can get is there a reason you can not take the nose off while it's installed to get the rest of the oil?
No reason why you can't take the nose cone off while on the truck, actually what I prefure so that you know you got all of the oil.
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Old 08-30-2013, 09:03 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darthyota View Post
just so you guys know these guys port and polish blowers they also have other power enhancing options aswell
http://www.stiegemeier.com
I had these guys rebuild and port my 1st gen charger. Very good work and quick turnaround. Next time, I'll do the rebuild myself. Thanks for the detailed write up! Not so intimidating now!
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Old 08-30-2013, 03:29 PM   #64
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SupraT ... How's she runnin'? Any issues?
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Old 08-31-2013, 03:20 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redroadrider View Post
SupraT ... How's she runnin'? Any issues?
For putting the SC on a 182,000, it runs pretty good. So i did the rebuild because i heard a strange sound comming from the engine area. So i did the rebuild and it didnt fix any sound.... The rebuild went good but i did have to replace my nose cone seal, not sure why but when i redid it i applied some grease on the inner part of the seal and it is holding up now. Debating on regreasing my rear bearings??
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Old 09-17-2013, 11:48 AM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SupraT View Post
I have done a lot of research on this subject and there is not a whole lot out there, so I figured I would share my experience. First off this whole procedure would be a lot easier with a big press but I didn't have one so this is what I used.

I ordered new nose seal, couplier, bearings, gasket maker and super charger oil from:
http://rollingperformance.com/index.htm

First off I removed the SC from the truck and set it on the work bench.

Remove the drain plug on the front of the unit next to the pulley, with an allen wrench.


Tip forward and drain oil out, as you can see mine is dark in color and smelled terrible. Guessing it really needed changed


Next loosen the bolts around the housing.


I loosened all the bolts about an inch, then I pried the nose drive from the housing and tipped it over onto a rag to remove the last of the oil.


Then remove the rest of the bolts and remove the nose drive.



Now on to removing the rotor assy from the housing by prying on the three different notches.




Once the rotor assy is removed you can see the two rear bearings.



This next process would be a lot easier with a press. I improvised and found the end of my 1/2 inch extension was the same OD than the bearing. So I then beat them out of the rear.


I froze the rear bearings and used the back of a socket to beat the bearings back in. If you have never done anything like this before make sure that you are going in straight.



Apply gasket maker, do not use this much it was overkill and it got all over the place. All you need is a small bead around the inner lip. Then put the rotor assy back in. And install the new coupler.




Now the nose assy. I used a punch, hammer, and a couple pieces of wood to remove the nose shaft.



Remove the clip holding the seal in and then flip the housing over and I used a 1/2 inch ext and a socket to remove the outer bearing and seal.



After bearing and seal are removed, remove spring from the shaft assy and put the shaft back in the housing place on wood again and with punch beat the shaft thru the bearing and couplier piece ( Did not take a picture of this process) Would be a lot easier to take it to a shop and get it pressed off and new one pressed on.

Install new front bearing. And reinstall the nose shaft and bearings.


Apply gasket maker and put nose assy back on. Loc-tight bolts and tighten, then fill with 4 oz super charger oil and put drain plug back in and reinstall on the truck.

Hope this helps anyone looking to do a full rebuild, and feel free to contact me with questions.

P.S. Sorry about the spelling
Excellent write up!!!! Looks fairly simple. I got my truck at 170k, now has 240k, and I have never done an oil change or anything. My mechanic told me they don't require regular maintenance, would this be a good idea to do? The oil has probably never been changed :/ Thanks.
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Old 09-18-2013, 12:44 AM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by therexinator View Post
Excellent write up!!!! Looks fairly simple. I got my truck at 170k, now has 240k, and I have never done an oil change or anything. My mechanic told me they don't require regular maintenance, would this be a good idea to do? The oil has probably never been changed :/ Thanks.
If there is no sign of leakage from your nose cone seal, then your prolly only in need of a oil change not full rebuild.
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Old 09-22-2013, 05:03 PM   #68
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More info or pics of rear needle bearing removal? I do not see where i could beat them
out from the back as the OP did. Rolling Performance says to fab a tool to insert into two holes to inject grease to push the bearing out from the rear. Where exactly are these holes? Please help!
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Old 09-23-2013, 06:32 PM   #69
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I am getting ready to put in an order from RP and wanted to verify what you got. You said that you got the kit:

#STDSNOUTKIT03-V

but it doesn't look like it includes the rear rotor bearings or the coupler? Can you confirm that everything you ordered was in that kit? I suppose I could make sure I get what I need by emailing him when I order, but I thought it might benefit others to clarify on here as well.

Thanks!
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Old 09-23-2013, 07:58 PM   #70
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You need to order the needle bearings as well as the coupler in addition to your snout kit. About 130.00 or so shipped.
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Old 09-23-2013, 08:54 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bk808 View Post
You need to order the needle bearings as well as the coupler in addition to your snout kit. About 130.00 or so shipped.
That's what I thought. Thanks for the confirmation.
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Old 10-16-2013, 08:10 PM   #72
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I called up TRD and they recommend the oil be changed at 100k miles on the supercharger and thats it.
Just a helpful hint for everyone with a TRD supercharger to have an extra supercharger belt in your truck I have heard they can be hard to find at the auto parts store and can take days to get, $10 can save a future headache.
This is the part # off the TRD supercharger kit instructions book part # 00602-17620-026.
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Old 10-25-2013, 02:43 PM   #73
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thank you for this it helped a bunch. saved me alot of momey. pictures where clear an was wrote up perfect. i did however go to harbor freight an buy a cheep press. alot easer
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Old 11-12-2013, 11:12 AM   #74
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So I took this rebuild to the next level and rebuilt my rotor pack, found a website that sells everything u need even new coated rotors if needed. More info to come
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Old 11-19-2013, 03:01 PM   #75
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Can you give the name of the website for these additional parts please?
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Old 11-19-2013, 04:39 PM   #76
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Alert for First Gen S/C units. I put some hard miles on my S/C while at the Dunes meaning it was running higher temps than normal, so the following week I was at the desert doing a night run when all of a sudden i hear a loud whine from the supercharger and when i let of the gas the truck would low idle to the point it died. really thought i damaged something bad. i open my hood to inspect and found that the casting plugs on the top of the charger where loose and one had actually fell off and landed on the heater hoses next to the fire wall. where i luckily found it and was able to put it on and somewhat tighten it with a screw drive enough to get to camp.

I have them on there with Teflon but will be removing them and installing them with Green Loctite.

And figured throw the alert for you guys to check these plugs.

circled in red for first Gen S/C's I don't know if the second Gens (black) have them somewhere.

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Old 11-21-2013, 08:31 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SupraT View Post
Thought I posted this pic




Thank you Lisa



From what I found, if you change your oil every 30,000 or so you might never have to rebuild
i find it funny that the oil going in is GMC branded oil ACdelco has been GMC's whore just like aisan is Toyota's

Quote:
Originally Posted by bk808 View Post
Can you give the name of the website for these additional parts please?
X2
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Old 12-13-2013, 03:16 PM   #79
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This seems like a good place to ask this... Anybody have a supercharger just sitting around and could take some measurments for me? I'm trying to determine if the M62 off of a Cobalt SS is the same configuration as the one made for TRD. A photo with measurments added in with paint or something would be fine... Preferably with the blower separated from the manifold that bolts to the engine. Don't pull it apart just for me, but if you have one in pieces already I'd appreciate help. Also if anyone would be willing to go measure the length of their nosecone for me (this could be done with the blower installed) that'd be great.

Thanks in advance
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Old 12-13-2013, 03:19 PM   #80
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For the underside measurments, just like the length and width of the hole under the rotors (the top hole on this pic):



and maybe spacing of the bolt holes
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