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3.4l TRD Supercharger rebuild

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Old 03-10-2013, 08:20 PM   #1
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3.4l TRD Supercharger rebuild

I have done a lot of research on this subject and there is not a whole lot out there, so I figured I would share my experience. First off this whole procedure would be a lot easier with a big press but I didn't have one so this is what I used.

I ordered new nose seal, couplier, bearings, gasket maker and super charger oil from:
http://rollingperformance.com/index.htm

First off I removed the SC from the truck and set it on the work bench.

Remove the drain plug on the front of the unit next to the pulley, with an allen wrench.


Tip forward and drain oil out, as you can see mine is dark in color and smelled terrible. Guessing it really needed changed


Next loosen the bolts around the housing.


I loosened all the bolts about an inch, then I pried the nose drive from the housing and tipped it over onto a rag to remove the last of the oil.


Then remove the rest of the bolts and remove the nose drive.



Now on to removing the rotor assy from the housing by prying on the three different notches.




Once the rotor assy is removed you can see the two rear bearings.



This next process would be a lot easier with a press. I improvised and found the end of my 1/2 inch extension was the same OD than the bearing. So I then beat them out of the rear.


I froze the rear bearings and used the back of a socket to beat the bearings back in. If you have never done anything like this before make sure that you are going in straight.



Apply gasket maker, do not use this much it was overkill and it got all over the place. All you need is a small bead around the inner lip. Then put the rotor assy back in. And install the new coupler.




Now the nose assy. I used a punch, hammer, and a couple pieces of wood to remove the nose shaft.



Remove the clip holding the seal in and then flip the housing over and I used a 1/2 inch ext and a socket to remove the outer bearing and seal.



After bearing and seal are removed, remove spring from the shaft assy and put the shaft back in the housing place on wood again and with punch beat the shaft thru the bearing and couplier piece ( Did not take a picture of this process) Would be a lot easier to take it to a shop and get it pressed off and new one pressed on.

Install new front bearing. And reinstall the nose shaft and bearings.


Apply gasket maker and put nose assy back on. Loc-tight bolts and tighten, then fill with 4 oz super charger oil and put drain plug back in and reinstall on the truck.

Hope this helps anyone looking to do a full rebuild, and feel free to contact me with questions.

P.S. Sorry about the spelling
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Old 03-10-2013, 08:24 PM   #2
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sweet write up man!
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Old 03-10-2013, 08:42 PM   #3
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sweet write up man!
Thanks, hopefully it helps someone
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Old 03-10-2013, 09:17 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by SupraT View Post
Thanks, hopefully it helps someone
EDIT:

IT APPEARS THE PHENOLIC DRIVE ADAPTER IS INSTALLED BACKWARDS.

This is the best write up I have ever seen...

I replaced my nosecone on my SC with a brand new one before I installed it. Had this post been around I would of saved myself 200 bucks.

Any chance you could tell us what size bearings were in the impeller housing?

Thank You!

It might also help to use locktite green 603 bearing retaining compound on the outer race of the bearings and locktite 242 blue on the nose cone bolts
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Old 03-10-2013, 09:22 PM   #6
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This is the best write up I have ever seen...

I replaced my nosecone on my SC with a brand new one before I installed it. Had this post been around I would of saved myself 200 bucks.

Any chance you could tell us what size bearings were in the impeller housing?

Thank You!
I will post up the part numbers that were on the box. I just ordered this part #
#STDSNOUTKIT03-V . . . $75.00 from Rolling Performance
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Old 03-10-2013, 09:25 PM   #7
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nice writeup. supercharger must feel refreshed after that lol.
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Old 03-10-2013, 09:37 PM   #8
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How does it drive? Can you tell a difference? I'm sure you know but Magnuson will apparently rebuild them as well...

http://www.yotatech.com/f39/magnuson...rebuild-57364/
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Old 03-10-2013, 09:44 PM   #9
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How does it drive? Can you tell a difference? I'm sure you know but Magnuson will apparently rebuild them as well...

http://www.yotatech.com/f39/magnuson...rebuild-57364/

Here is my conversation with Magnusun about rebuilding...


Hey xxxxxx, our inspection fee is $85.00 to inspect the supercharger, the repair depends on what it might need… it can range from $475.00 to $1200.00 for the internals.
*

David Gonzalez,* Customer Service Rep* (Se Habla Espanol)
Magnuson Products LLC. International Headquarters, Ventura CA.
Ph. +1 805 642-8833 **************************www.magnusonproducts.com



I think if you can work on it yourself it's worth it.
*
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Old 03-10-2013, 10:36 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NW4RUNNER View Post
How does it drive? Can you tell a difference? I'm sure you know but Magnuson will apparently rebuild them as well...

http://www.yotatech.com/f39/magnuson...rebuild-57364/
I can feel and hear the difference And it only costed me 120.00. In most cases you can prolly just change the oil and be fine if your seal is good.
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Old 03-11-2013, 11:30 AM   #11
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About time someone did this... Good info. Mine will need rebuilt some day.
Just curious why you rebuilt your sc. Was it making noise or was it just time?
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Old 03-11-2013, 12:55 PM   #12
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About time someone did this... Good info. Mine will need rebuilt some day.
Just curious why you rebuilt your sc. Was it making noise or was it just time?
It just didn't have the whine that it should and i thought it was making a noise from the rear but now that I have rebuilt it I still have the noise Thinking it might be an exhaust leak now...
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Old 03-11-2013, 02:14 PM   #13
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Hmm ... what kind of noise? Put the stock crap back on and see if it goes away?
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Old 03-11-2013, 05:21 PM   #14
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Sick write-up. I was lazy and took mine to Magnuson- I would like to do the next rebuild myself, and have the blower ported as well.
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Old 03-12-2013, 07:53 AM   #15
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thank you! great write up.
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Old 03-12-2013, 04:05 PM   #17
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Can you post pics of where you put in the new sc oil after you drain out the old oil for the sc
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Old 03-12-2013, 05:04 PM   #18
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You forgot that step where you (accidentally) dented the rotor

Just kidding Tony, nice work. I have requested "sticky" status for this thread...
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Old 03-12-2013, 05:13 PM   #19
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nice writeup man. This is something I will probably have to do in the next few years. Thanks for the info.
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Old 03-12-2013, 08:47 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbassd View Post
Can you post pics of where you put in the new sc oil after you drain out the old oil for the sc
Thought I posted this pic


Quote:
Originally Posted by MTgirl View Post
You forgot that step where you (accidentally) dented the rotor

Just kidding Tony, nice work. I have requested "sticky" status for this thread...
Thank you Lisa

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Originally Posted by atvlifestyle View Post
nice writeup man. This is something I will probably have to do in the next few years. Thanks for the info.
From what I found, if you change your oil every 30,000 or so you might never have to rebuild
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