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Have a 5VZ-FE,2RZ-FE or 3RZ-FE that needs a valve adjustment?

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Old 03-27-2013, 09:27 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TacoMX View Post
I think getting your valve clearances checked on a toyota truck is a bit overboard. Unless you have very high mileage.

I have NEVER heard of anyone checking or adjusting the valves in their toyota truck unless they were having major issues.

If you are having some issues with a rough idle, there are many more simple things that are probably wrong. (IE...MAF sesnor, IAC valve, vacuum leaks, old plugs/wires, EGR....
Wether its overkill or not im glad I am getting it fixed, as it would of just started eating away at my cam and causing crap fuel milage and eventually a lot more to fix in the long run, and I plan on keeping this truck till it falls apart so thats my 2cents lol
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Old 03-28-2013, 05:23 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joes06tacoma View Post
Better to be safe. My boss messed around with fuel system cleaner for a couple of months thinking he knew better than a mechanic. Cost him a valve job. Not trying to scare you into spending money, but it does happen.
That is what im doing is doing the exhaust valves as you cant even adgust them they need new shims installed and all of them were to tight..damn expensive but so is everything els we do to our trucks lol
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Old 03-30-2013, 05:33 PM   #43
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Well done with getting the right sised valve shims put in and now trying to figure out my crappy idle now lol it seems to have gotten worse since I got the right shims put in..damn it never ends
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Old 03-31-2013, 05:02 PM   #44
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For anyone els thinking about doing there exhaust valve clearence.I am putting as much info as I can on this as I couldnt find anything much on it.
So if you dont hear the valves clicking away it more than likely means they are out and to tight. as I just had mine done and now I can hear the usual valve sounds that is supposed to be there. As well as I have gained hp from doing them I can go up a steep road now in 4th when I use to have to be in third reving it out to keep up with people in 3rd. Other than the newly crappy idle after getting this done it runs much better. and I dont have to worry about my cam and valves burning out on me. Mine were way to tight and may have had issues in a year or sooner with major problems at that point. why these valve shims are so tight from factory I will never know. the only thing I can think is it sounds more clean with no sound when they are tight and most people would think that as beeing better that hearing them but its not tru
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Old 03-31-2013, 06:40 PM   #45
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Thanks for contributing your findings! I know many folks think it never needs to be done, but these engines are not magical. For the most part they are extremely reliable, but the symptoms of tight valves wouldn't be obvious because it happens so gradually. I will be checking my 3RZ soon thanks to you.

I do have a few questions if you don't mind:
  • Where did you get the shims? Dealer or old engine?
  • Did you buy an assortment or buy them once you knew what sizes to get?
  • Any special tools?

Thanks again
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Old 03-31-2013, 08:42 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmj View Post
Thanks for contributing your findings! I know many folks think it never needs to be done, but these engines are not magical. For the most part they are extremely reliable, but the symptoms of tight valves wouldn't be obvious because it happens so gradually. I will be checking my 3RZ soon thanks to you.

I do have a few questions if you don't mind:
  • Where did you get the shims? Dealer or old engine?
  • Did you buy an assortment or buy them once you knew what sizes to get?
  • Any special tools?
Thanks again
Hey no problem.
what I did with my mechanic was we had to order them from the dealers. And once you have checked the clearence with the feeler guages and know you need them we just took the cam off and measured them with a micrometer taking them out with a screw driver to measure them correct. and depending on which sise your are at you order the corresponding ones. We kept mine all around 0.11 0.12 of an inch which they are all way to tight on the exhaust side and were pretty much all 0.08 which is 0.02 below the tightest spec of these motors. it sais to have the exhaust ones at 0.10 to 0.14 which are in spec so we tried to get as close to the middle of that when we ordered the shims.
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Old 03-31-2013, 08:54 PM   #47
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I cleaned the the MAF sensor and T/body and put new spark plugs amd My 02toy v6 5speed still revs up from 1300 rpm then like 30 min later 1000rpm,.take off is fine and come to a stop sign again 1300rpm than it changes again anybody? Will be appreciated...thanks very good site was Up to everyone from SA, OC
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Old 03-31-2013, 09:15 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RGosen View Post
Hey no problem.
what I did with my mechanic was we had to order them from the dealers. And once you have checked the clearence with the feeler guages and know you need them we just took the cam off and measured them with a micrometer taking them out with a screw driver to measure them correct. and depending on which sise your are at you order the corresponding ones. We kept mine all around 0.11 0.12 of an inch which they are all way to tight on the exhaust side and were pretty much all 0.08 which is 0.02 below the tightest spec of these motors. it sais to have the exhaust ones at 0.10 to 0.14 which are in spec so we tried to get as close to the middle of that when we ordered the shims.
Be careful of your units. You seem to be shifting back and forth between inch and metric without notice. This will confuse the hell out of anyone trying to do this for the first time. Have a good one.
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Old 03-31-2013, 10:42 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xcmtb83 View Post
Be careful of your units. You seem to be shifting back and forth between inch and metric without notice. This will confuse the hell out of anyone trying to do this for the first time. Have a good one.
What I said above was inch. I did fix a a post on here as to not cause confustion. Thanks for the heads up on that
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Old 05-24-2013, 03:01 PM   #50
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I would like to contribute my findings on my 3RZ with 179k

Measurements in inches

Cyl E I
4 0.006 0.006
.. 0.003 0.006
3 0.007 0.007
.. 0.007 0.008
2 0.007 0.007
.. 0.004 0.008
1 0.007 0.008
.. < 0.002 0.007

Obviously things are way to tight, and an exhaust valve on cylinder 1 could be burned.

I wish I had check this when I got the truck, 25k miles ago. Thing is, the truck runs fine right now. I did a compression test in August 12 and got these numbers:

Comp test(hot)
4 192psi
3 185psi
2 180psi
1 195psi
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Old 05-24-2013, 03:36 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RGosen View Post
Oh I am just having a idle problem once warmed up it will go from under 800 rpms and then rev up to about 1200 and then back to about 800 over and over every 10 seconds.
You have described a dirty IACV...
I cleaned mine up... and it corrected the erratic idle.

btw... the next step after the erratic idling...
is a piece of junk dead in the water. (no fire)

Oddly... a cel does not occur when that valve gets dirty.
Not sure if 100% IACV failure would even trigger a cel !?

A dealership may tell you it's faulty (value off), then offer to sell you another.
Sometimes they can be cleaned up... and will function correctly.
But the dealership tech's will only swap in a new component
and make no attempt at cleaning that.

If you insist on new... it'll cost you $$$

* Clean your MAF sensor too.


forget the valve shimming stuff...
at least until you have ruled everything else out.

I've seen engines with 400K on them...
never required a valve adjustment.

Not saying it shouldn't be checked on high mileage motors...
just saying... I think your problems lay elsewhere.
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