Idle Air Control Valve cleaning on 2.7

Hi all my idle is all wonky it goes from 800 to 1300 rpms at idle once warmed up over and over so I want to clean my Idle Air Control Valve but I have no idea where it is or what to use to clean it..any link to pics of how to do it on my 2000 tacoma 2.7 ? Thanks


UPDATE: This issue was due to the defrost heater being on. But I still have the erratic idle which is noticed mostly arounf 700rpms and has gotten worse after valve shims put in with the correct sise.

 

It is directly under, but slightly rearward of the throttle body. Hard to get a picture of it without removing the TB, which you will have to do to access it, anyway. I believe it has a sensor connected to it, and some coolant hoses (2?) as well.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3P0UCx7Yn0s

That video is for a V6, but the principle is the same, and it's positioned pretty similarly in relation to the TB. Not the same part, though. This dude just replaces his, which may be the only way to solve your issue. I would clean the crap out of your TB while you're in there and replace any gaskets that you can.

Good luck.

 

I thought a sporadic or jumping idle was signs of a vacuum leak. Then signs of a bad IAC valve are the idle getting stuck in high, then maybe will drop after you rev it, but once it drops it doesn't get stuck in high again until you give it gas?
Don't quote me on this, it's just been my experience, and if I've been assuming wrong, I'd like to know.

 

Looks like this:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=935860&cc=1364712

 

Cleaning only buys you time to get a new IAC valve.

 

I've cleaned a few...
tested after... the values were good.

will last until it gets dirty again or simply fails

Often they have lots of carbon build up on the vane. (not only)
it's usually that which is causing it to stick and malfunction.

The gummed up vane is likely culprit.
and needs to rotate smoothly without restriction
to function properly.

I had to use a hardwood dowel and some brake cleaner
in order to clean them up.

I cleaned up a junk yard IAC once...
was for a friend who was installing a junk yard motor.
It's still running fine after 4 years time.

I personally will attempt to clean the IAC before buying new.
guess I'm just cheap that way.

remember... if using chemicals to clean that...
do not leave residue inside the IAC.
That could screw up other sensors.

just sayin'

 

Use some sensor safe contact cleaner like CRC sensitive electronics contact cleaner or CRC MAF cleaner to clean the IAC valve. I cleaned mine about 2 years ago this way and its still going strong.

 

Ok ok will do thanks for the info. sounds like its a bit of work to get that IAC out and cleaned.

 

Thanks for the info all. But I do keep reading that the jumping idle is vaccum leak is this true or could the IAC be causing this ?

 

It seems to idle around 700 and really eratic. its gotten worse after getting new valve shims put in. even tho this should have made it idle better in theory. It also has a bit of a random miss when not at idle as well. but it never idles above 800rpms. So does this mean vaccum or is this IAC I really dont want to keep throwing money into this truck so I want to be sure what I do. It allso seems to turn over longer than it should take when starting it up. prolly like on the 4th turn over it starts. Help pleasee thanks..I did just put the electric greece on the plug wires and didnt make any differnece at all. allso checked all the vaccum lines for about an hr but still no luck.

 

Engine throwing any codes?

 

Nope no check engin light yet..still has great power but idles like crap and a randome miss when reved up as well.

 

On a 13 yr old truck, it's best to replace the vac lines and plastic adapters. Check the intake runner by flexing and spraying throttle body cleaner. Listen for RPM changes.

 

Ok will have to do this. but how do I check my intake runner ? if you mean my intake I have had the whole thing apart a few times and blew about a half can of carb cleaner in the throttle body hopeing that would help, as well as new plugs and wires even tho the old ones plugs/wires looked like new still.. but all the carb cleaner did was give me a high idle of about 2000 for a bit and then went back to the normal 400rpm with ruff idle again. this trucks keeps amazing me with how it can make me broke constantly lol

 

You spray throttle body cleaner. Carb cleaner's solvents are not compatible with the seals in the TB. You spray the OUTSIDE of the intake hoses and connections to search for leaks. If the RPMs surge when you spray, there's a leak.

Running a Seafoam treatment would be a good idea too.

 

I was told throttle body cleaner just has a film thats left behind and that pretty much the only difference with it and carb cleaner and it takes longer for it to get dirty again, and that there was at one time a film of the older throttle bodies that the carb cleaner would take off ? But I will have to try spraying it on the hoses . I did put seafoem about two months ago as well. But I guess I could try it again. But after I did it I heard its worse for throttlebody seals that anything so I desided I was not going to use it again.

 

thanks man. im hoping I can just spray the shit out if it in that hole thats on the bottom of the throttlebody with some cleaner to maybe clean it..and see if anything changes

 

The seafoam goes in via a vac line, anywhere after the TB.

 

Dont you put in in your gas as well ? And that is where it causes the problems I heard. But there is a lot of myths out there so its hard to know whats true unless first hand.