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Oil Change Interval

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by White Monster, Apr 5, 2013.

  1. Apr 5, 2013 at 1:17 PM
    #1
    White Monster

    White Monster [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hello everyone, newbie here,

    I have not seen a thread about OCI's or Used Oil Analysis (UOA), so I thought I'd share my experiences with you and see what you all are doing.

    I use Mobile 1 Extended Performance (EP) and double most people's oil change interval. Anybody send their used oil to a laboratory for analysis? You can't argue with testing.

    I have tested my Inline 2.7L four-cylinder 3RZ-FE at both 14,200 and 18,500 with excellent results (meaning no abnormal engine wear or contaminates) and some TBN still remaining. My engine has 125,000 on it now, mostly easy, clean driving without loads or towing.

    Check out my results and post up yours !
    :thumbsup:

    [​IMG]

    Averages: Both the universal and unit averages are running averages and change with the number of samples we analyze.

    Elements: Elements are quantified in the oil at parts per million levels (PPM). This list shows the most common sources of the elements in gasoline or diesel engine oil. Following each element is a description of where it comes from. They are grouped by category.

    Wear Metals
    Aluminum: Pistons, bearings, cases (heads & blocks).
    Chromium: Rings, a trace element in steel.
    Iron: Cylinders, rotating shafts, the valve train, and any steel part sharing the oil.
    Copper: Brass or bronze parts, copper bushings, bearings, oil coolers, also an additive in some gasoline engine oils.
    Lead: Bearings.
    Tin: Bearings, bronze parts, piston coatings.
    Nickel: Trace element in steel, platings on some cylinder types.

    Trace Elements
    Manganese: Trace element, additive in some foreign gasoline.
    Silver: Trace element, some types of bearings.
    Titanium: Trace wear metal.

    Contaminants
    Potassium: Antifreeze, additive in some oil types.
    Sodium: Antifreeze (ethylene glycol), additive in some gasoline engine oils.
    Silicon: Airborne dirt escaping air filtration, sealers, gaskets, sand-casted parts, and spray lubricants, antifreeze -inhibitor.

    Oil Additives
    Molybdenum: Anti-wear additive, some types of rings.
    Boron: Detergent/dispersant additive, antifreeze inhibitors.
    Calcium: Detergent/dispersant additive.
    Magnesium: Detergent/dispersant additive.
    Phosphorus: Anti-wear additive.
    Zinc: Anti-wear additive.
    Barium: Detergent/dispersant additive used in some synthetics.

    Physical properties
    Viscosity/Flashpoint: If fuel is present in the oil, the Viscosity and Flashpoint will often be lower than stated in the "Values Should Be" line. A high viscosity may show oil oxidation or high levels of soot. It can also show an oil additive in use.
    Fuel %: Indicates the amount of volatile fuel dilution found in the oil.
    Antifreeze %: Indicates the amount of antifreeze found in the oil. A question mark means we found possible traces of coolant, but not enough to definitively say it's there.
    Water %: Indicates the amount of water found in the oil.
    Insolubles %: Insolubles are solid materials present in the oil. They are typically free carbon from the oxidation of the oil itself, along with blow-by past the rings.
     
  2. Apr 5, 2013 at 1:19 PM
    #2
    White Monster

    White Monster [OP] Well-Known Member

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    This is what the first report comments were;

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2013
  3. Apr 5, 2013 at 8:32 PM
    #3
    CUtacomaTIGER

    CUtacomaTIGER Unprofessional Driver

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    so what is your typical oci? if i'm reading this right your first run was 14.2k and your second 18.5k, but now your actually at 125k. i never new 14k oil could still be so good. i like to run 7-9k mobile 1 synthetic w/oem filter but if you can run 14k on the extended performance. i might try that and only change the filter half way through.
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2013
  4. Apr 7, 2013 at 7:50 AM
    #4
    White Monster

    White Monster [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I bought the truck used with 68K on the clock and that is when I changed it to synthetic (Mobil 1) and started OCI's at every 7,500 mi.

    After a couple changes with that product, at that interval, I changed to Mobile 1 Extended Performance which is guaranteed to last 15,000 mi. and ran it for 10,000 mi., twice I believe.

    That is when I decided to determine scientifically through laboratory analysis of the used oil, if their claim really stood up. I ran the next cycle to 14,200 mi. (Odometer 102,272) and sent a sample to Blackstone. The report results are above, with his recommendation to push the next change a couple thousand.

    My plan was to push it to 16K, but an unexpected trip took it to 18,500 mi. by the time I got back and changed it out (odometer 120,800). That report is in my original post, surprisingly still with some TBN left.

    No, I'm not going to push it further, rather I'm just going to be content with a regular 15,000 mile OCI. On a side note, I did not replace the oil filter at the half-way point. I selected the largest size top shelf Purolator PureOne filter that would fit and ran it for the entire interval. I think I'll saw it in half next time and visually inspect the internal elements.

    Perform your own analysis, on your own engine, using your own oil and you may realize how much money you throw down the drain every 3,000 miles !

    Also, testing can show early warning signs of engine problems, such as; abnormal levels of metal (indicating component wear or failure), fuel or water contamination in oil (gasket issues), which when identified and repaired early, can save an engine replacement later.

    Just say in' ...
    :D
     
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2013
  5. Apr 7, 2013 at 7:55 AM
    #5
    RAT PRODUCTS

    RAT PRODUCTS Well-Known Member

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    I used to run Mobil 1 extended performance. I changed it every 5k. :facepalm:
     
  6. Apr 7, 2013 at 8:28 AM
    #6
    History

    History Active Member

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    What is the cost of a (UOA)? What do you contain the sample in and how do you send it? I know these are simple questions but I have never even considered something like this. This sounds good to me to have facts instead of bla bla bla.
     
  7. Apr 7, 2013 at 1:35 PM
    #7
    smuook

    smuook Daily Driver "Plus"

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    I like how on the bottom Blackstone analysis "liability limited to the cost of the analysis". Sure, add another 2k and see what happens. Oops, here's your analysis money back. Sorry. Just saying.

    I do believe you have a point though in saying that most people through away money on oil changes. I'm sure the oil companies love the "debate" about engine oil. The truth is that they have been ripping people off for years. The 3,000 mile rule that Dad gave us has been overly conservative for decades.

    http://www.nydailynews.com/autos/3-000-mile-oil-change-rule-myth-experts-claim-oil-companies-motivated-greed-article-1.1022390
     
  8. Apr 7, 2013 at 6:24 PM
    #8
    White Monster

    White Monster [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Cost is about $20.
    Call or email Blackstone for a free kit and they will send you one.
    It has the container for your sample and instructions for sending USPS.
    Easy ...
     
  9. Apr 7, 2013 at 6:54 PM
    #9
    History

    History Active Member

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    Thanks!
     
  10. Apr 7, 2013 at 7:09 PM
    #10
    Buy1Get1Freee

    Buy1Get1Freee HERP DERP

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    Wow this is some very interesting stuff. Now to calculate all the money I wasted changing my oil early.... :D
     
  11. Jul 15, 2016 at 11:52 PM
    #11
    Speedytech7

    Speedytech7 Toyota Cult Ombudsman

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    I've done a mod or two
    I sent my oil on my 2.7L to Blackstone to determine whether I had a head issue. Not to see if I could stretch $25 over the course of a year and a half. But hey whatever floats your boat. I run in hot conditions banging off the rev limiter and going over mountain passes at high RPM so I doubt my oil would make it past the 5,500mi I change it at anyway and for the cost of the analysis I could just take the money and change my oil. But that's nifty information for sure, I won't feel so bad when I miss my oil change interval.
     

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