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Old 04-11-2013, 11:36 AM   #1
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New clutch

at 200k on my stock clutch it's finally starting to slip.
i think i'm going with a marlin 1200 clutch but it doesn't include the throwout bearing so i have to find one of those.
anyone that's done this, did you replace the flywheel?
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Old 04-11-2013, 11:57 AM   #2
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http://www.marlincrawler.com/clutch/...ch-kit-1200-lb

the marlin crawler 1200# kit does come with the TOB.

TOB=release bearing

when the time comes this is also the kit I am going to use. Although my clutch is still strong at 188K original miles.

I would also suggest putting in an OEM rear main seal while you have the trans separated from the motor
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Old 04-11-2013, 12:39 PM   #3
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ah i didn't know that. cool. i was going to do a rear main but when i called marlin he said if it's not leaking don't touch it. i know i have a seal leaking on the motor somewhere because it leaks oil i'm just not entirely sure where.
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Old 04-11-2013, 02:27 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sk8rjess View Post
ah i didn't know that. cool. i was going to do a rear main but when i called marlin he said if it's not leaking don't touch it. i know i have a seal leaking on the motor somewhere because it leaks oil i'm just not entirely sure where.
hmmm...I would replace it...Your luck you will do the clutch and the seal will start leaking.

I'm all about prophylactic maintenance.
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Old 04-11-2013, 02:32 PM   #5
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I agree with Marlin if it ain't broke don't fix it.
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Old 04-11-2013, 02:48 PM   #6
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While it ain't broke don't fix it- is a great motto, since the clutch will be out, the cost to replace the seal, for assurance purposes, is cheap....should you need to do it later, you will pay dearly. Why not do it while it is exposed/super easy access? My .02

As for the flywheel, you could have the old one machined, if there is any irregularities. I replaced my clutch, pilot bearing/throwout bearing and slave cylinder...didn't need to touch the flywheel and all is good.... real good. Save the flywheel $$$ and do the seal.
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Old 04-11-2013, 07:56 PM   #8
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I never met a flywheel that I didn't replace.

Won't know until you get your eyes on it though.
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Old 04-12-2013, 04:15 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomtom View Post
I never met a flywheel that I didn't replace.

Won't know until you get your eyes on it though.
Don't trust machine shops? They have thousands of dollars invested in machines just for that purpose.
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Old 04-12-2013, 04:19 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TacoMX View Post
hmmm...I would replace it...Your luck you will do the clutch and the seal will start leaking.

I'm all about prophylactic maintenance.
How sure are you that you got that seal in exactly straight? Modern seals should out last the engine.
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Old 04-12-2013, 04:43 AM   #11
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Metal clad rear main engine oil seals harden after time . They are easy to install providing you pack them with grease during install . I would also check the crankshaft for seal groove . You could always get a speedy sleeve . Purchase and OEM seal .
The flywheel should " Always be machined " as they dish over time . A straight edge will show how bad it is .
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Old 04-12-2013, 07:51 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maineah View Post
How sure are you that you got that seal in exactly straight? Modern seals should out last the engine.
I'm not sure how you can think a rubber seal can outlast a motor....rubber will eventually harden and crack and leak.

Plus, remember you are in the first gen section...many of our trucks are approaching 20 years old.

Lets say I do my clutch this year, being a 1997 (produced in 1996) that means the seals and gaskets in my truck are going to be 18 years old.

So The way I see it, not replacing an 18 year old seal would be stupid when you have it all apart to do it.

The OP's truck is an 02...so that means his seal is 13 years old....
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Old 04-12-2013, 08:17 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maineah View Post
Don't trust machine shops? They have thousands of dollars invested in machines just for that purpose.
Every flywheel I've taken in they say is too far gone. Not sure what their thousand dollar machines can fix when there isn't enough material...

It kind of sucks when you're counting on that machine shop to push it out in a couple hours and you find out you have to wait for a new flywheel to come in.

As I said, won't know until you get actual eyes on the flywheel. So I've learned to just replace them.
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Old 04-12-2013, 10:46 AM   #14
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so i'll do the seal too it's sounding like.
and the flywheel.

now i'm considering the URD stage 2 or 3 for the 3rz but leaning more towards the stage 2.
pros and cons anyone?
for the next few months it's my DD but when i do wheel(try to a few times a month) it's usually hard wheeling.
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Old 04-12-2013, 01:06 PM   #15
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I have no opinions on those other clutches. Just make sure you use a quality throw out bearing. And use an OEM rear main seal.
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Old 04-12-2013, 01:46 PM   #17
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I very much enjoy my Marlin Crawler supplied clutch kit. It has held just fine in the off-roading I've done.
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Old 04-12-2013, 04:53 PM   #18
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hmm. ill call URD on monday when i'm ready to order. does this look like a rear main seal issue? (ain't it purdy?)





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Old 04-12-2013, 04:58 PM   #19
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rear main seal would leak oil inside the bell housing which is bolted to the motor. Oil runs down so it would leak out of the hole at the bottom of the bell housing in picture 2. I do not think that is a rear main seal leaking. I could be wrong though.
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